Glenwood 116 to Help Out Little Tiget

Lol!!! Wahahaha! I find it so exciting when people in my area burn coal in hand fired stoves. He says they have a huge store of it too.

So here it is!!!! I've been looking at the refractory thread but I'd like to simply Line the box as the 116 is lined. I am hoping this will hold up...like the refractory liner in the 116. Nothing worse in the middle of winter than crumbling brick.
I only have to read the safety data sheet and decide what best to use as a hammer. Tomorrow might be the last nice day and I'd like to slam it outside with gloves, goggles and maybe a dollarama raincoat.
It took me so long to get this stuff.

Looks like a project W--good luck with it.

Thanks. I'll need all the luck sent. The thread sounds pretty violent.

Warm today must try to get this refractory into the range. I've wire brushed the range box and am going to set up surface outside to hammer it out to one third of an inch and then hammer it into the range box in sheets being sure to cover top edges well. The SDS says it's hazardous and noxious and will kill you if it can. And I was going to pat it around with bare hands.
I'll have a sheet of cardboard in the bottom to make sure the liner doesn't interfere with the grates or that with my luck a chunk gets into them ,dries, and the grates never turn again.
If anyone's out there, have I forgotten anything? Anyone feel free to throw hints, tips, and above alls in here. I'm as nervous as a cat. You'd think it was a soufflé. If I get the liner in I might try one....

Wren wrote: ↑

Sat. Oct. 10, 2020 9:28 am

Warm today must try to get this refractory into the range. I've wire brushed the range box and am going to set up surface outside to hammer it out to one third of an inch and then hammer it into the range box in sheets being sure to cover top edges well. The SDS says it's hazardous and noxious and will kill you if it can. And I was going to pat it around with bare hands.
I'll have a sheet of cardboard in the bottom to make sure the liner doesn't interfere with the grates or that with my luck a chunk gets into them ,dries, and the grates never turn again.
If anyone's out there, have I forgotten anything? Anyone feel free to throw hints, tips, and above alls in here. I'm as nervous as a cat. You'd think it was a soufflé. If I get the liner in I might try one....

Try using a rolling pin to get a uniform thickness. Cut the slabs to shape with a knife. And 3/4 inch thick, like the original firebricks, will hold up better than "one third of an inch".

Paul

Thank God an answer. Ok. 3/4. As long thinner than woodstove brick!

Wren wrote: ↑

Sat. Oct. 10, 2020 11:16 am

Thank God an answer. Ok. 3/4. As long thinner than woodstove brick!

Yeah, modern wood stove bricks are often thicker than what Greenwood used.

The original firebricks in my range, in my #6, and some recast firebricks that Wilson made in original wooden firebrick molds in hopes they'd fit my range (sadly they didn't), were all 3/4 inch thick.

Paul

No wonder it will take me ten years to apply this. I had to take one daughter shopping even though I said I couldn't and the other daughter is on her way from Montreal wants me to go hiking says be finished when she gets here.
Nothing in the box . I have three hundred pages online that lists ease of installation and uses etc.

Should I wet the fire box wall with water first or no?!!! And how long do I have once I start rolling? Please.

No rush. Rain started. Sigh.

I found instructions online! Oh well. I never happened upon a proprietary pneumatic ramming hammer at a garage sale. Or if I did I didn't know what it was.
It's a very small space I'm working on. Still, hard to know...I think it does not want a smoothed surface , anyway. And to be heated immediately.... I seem to remember threads where men want an oven large enough to put the stove in. H mmm. And it should NOT cool down. I should have done it over the summer during the heat wave. Oh well.W ell see how it goes.Next time....

Wren wrote: ↑

Sat. Oct. 10, 2020 3:07 pm

I found instructions online! Oh well. I never happened upon a proprietary pneumatic ramming hammer at a garage sale. Or if I did I didn't know what it was.
It's a very small space I'm working on. Still, hard to know...I think it does not want a smoothed surface , anyway. And to be heated immediately.... I seem to remember threads where men want an oven large enough to put the stove in. H mmm. And it should NOT cool down. I should have done it over the summer during the heat wave. Oh well.W ell see how it goes.Next time....

You don't have to hammer it in place. In fact with the flat sides of the firebox you risk cracking the thin cast iron walls if you give it too much of a shock load. If the refractory is not too dry (or too wet) it should stick with just firm hand pressure making sure to press it well over every square inch.

Once it's all in, slick it smooth with wet fingers. The smoother it is the better the ash shaking will go.

Wait 24 hours to let it dry out a bit and check that it's adhering well. Then a couple of small kindling fires to start curing it. You can even start warming and drying it with a hair dryer, or heat gun for the first few warming cycles. Slow and steady wins the race! Don't be in a rush because if the surface dries out too quickly compared to the inside, it will start to cause shrinkage tension cracks at the surface.

Paul

Getting it done now, thanks. Sons dog chewed handle of roller but enough left for finish hammering works better anyhow.
I hope this works!!!

Well it took about an hour and a half and I hammered out the "clay" as it was easier than the roller.
Most worried about front and back plate. Back because of the space for pipes and also it moves and front because it's not fixed in place except by this putty.
Must be different doing a space metres wide, but the small range box was stress enough. If I were a young man I'd be fascinated and heading in that direction. Look what this guy has! I wonder how it works exactly. I d be so sad if it all peeled off with the first fire.
But I only used two blocks so if it works I'll try and patch leaks in the 116. I wonder if it is sitting badly. I can see spaces at bottom. The little arcs in the bottom of the fire pot. Tiny, but still. That's it. Going to read a Georgette Heyer for twenty minutes, where they say there is a great saving of coal if you install a closed range like the Bodely.

And here's my hopeful effort. I can guess next week I'll find the instructions I wrote out so carefully about three or four years ago. I've been here a while I realize.