Glenwood No.118

 
Diesel II
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Post by Diesel II » Fri. Oct. 07, 2016 5:16 pm

Good Afternoon,

Hoping to get some quick advise and opinions on a Glenwood No.118 stove.
I am setup to go look at one tomorrow - I have been doing some reading on these recently and size wise I think it's a good fit.
The information out there though is all on here and sporadic I suppose is a good word .. ?

Spoke to the gentleman who owns the stove and he has had it for some time and only burned wood. He is telling me that it does not have the "kit" to burn coal however from his description it has a flat grate in the bottom of the firepot with "auger things" underneath the grate. I think I have read that they came this way and you need only take the grate out if going to coal - did they come with a lining in the firebox ? should there be one in there for coal burning ?

Hoping some will chime in with things to look for and whatnot so I am not missing anything when I go see it. It's a 2-1/2 hour ride so ...
Guy is sending me more picture tomorrow morning so I can get a better idea of overall condition - he says it's in good shape and the pictures I have look like it very well may be.
Glenwood 1.JPG
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Glenwood 2.JPG
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Currently have a Vigilant II and Chubby's - have had enough of the Vigilant , as nice looking of a stove as it is - can't argue that - and considering a new Chubby or the Glenwood.
Thank you all in advance - I do appreciate any input at all.


 
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tsb
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Post by tsb » Fri. Oct. 07, 2016 5:57 pm

Look on barnstablestove.com under parlor stoves. It looks like the legs have been cut off the one your looking at.
Might just be a bad picture, but take a look.

 
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Post by coalnewbie » Fri. Oct. 07, 2016 6:15 pm

The base is separate and I am sure Wilson will sell you one but tsb has a point.

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Fri. Oct. 07, 2016 6:25 pm

I have two Glenwood modern oak 118. They are large capacity stoves - holding about 70 pounds of nut coal.

Yup, those legs have been shortened. If the stove is otherwise useable you can borrow one of mine to have new legs recast. Since that the whole corner piece od the base skirt, it's likely about $60.00-70.00 per corner/foot to have recasts made by Tomahawk Foundry. Make sure to point that out because that affects the price they are asking.

One of the weak spots you want to check is the firepot bottom edge just above the center of the opening for the shaker grates. There's a screw hole there and they often crack from that hole down to the edge. That's not a deal killer, because it can be fixed by a welder who knows the tricks of welding cast iron, but it's an added cost to get the stove usable, so it's a bargaining point when figuring value.

Also, some came with a bolt-on casting support base behind the ash drawer area, and the rear nickeled skirt above that has an oval cutout. That's all to support and clear an optional back pipe, a very desirable feature for an oak stove. makes it almost as good a heater as a base heater.

Some 118 don't have the mica windows in the door, or the secondary air "gas burner" type air defuser. One of mine is like that - even though the door says 118 on the casting.

Check the grates for welded breaks in the middle, and the cogs (gears) at the rear of the bars and the ends of front triangular ends of the grate bars for signs of wear/abuse. The grate frame is held in place by two cotter pins up in each corner inside the ash door. The rear of the grate frame has two projections that fit into cast loops hangin down under the fire pot. Comes out easy but heavy to lift and align the rear parts when reinstalling the grate frame.

But don't despair if the grate are bad. Bryant Stove in Maine sells new, properly sized recast grate bars for the 118 (I bought a set) and Woodman's Parts in Maine has new recast grate frame that the grates sit in. But again it affects price because it will run you at least $60.00 per grate bar, plus shipping. The grate frame is a little over $100.00 plus shipping.

Any other questions don't hesitate to ask,

Good hunting .

Paul

 
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Post by Diesel II » Fri. Oct. 07, 2016 9:44 pm

Hah - see I looked at that picture many many times and wouldn't have caught that !
Good lookin' out.

tsb I like the sig line

Paul thank you for the information , and the offer , I do appreciate that. I am going to look for a parts breakdown to try to familiarize myself more for tomorrow. Glad to have a few things to look for though and that there are some parts out there - thank you again.
I imagine the legs would not be an operational issue - purely aesthetic ?

Anyone know the flue exit height off hand ? I do know that this is a direct draft stove and does not have the rear pipe setup.
Looking for more pictures of the internals of that setup as well out of curiosity.

Is a liner needed for the firebox in these - brick or blanket or .. Would the stove have come with that ?
Could the fact that he burned a lot of wood in the stove be cause for potential internal damage ?
Any tools that may be necessary to operate the grates that I might look for ?

lot of question marks in the above - thank you all again

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Oct. 08, 2016 6:05 am

The brick lining was an option, as was the back pipe. Here's mention of it in a Glenwood catalog. It's the stove on the right hand page. The stove barrel looks fat from that angle because it includes some of the back pipe.

If your going to use coal, yes you should line the pot.

And hopefully, the "auger things" are the triangular coal grates under the removable "wood plate". It should just lift out through the loading door.
As far as using it with the shortened legs, it doesn't get as hot under the stove as a base heater, but you should use some type of hearth under it for a wood floor.

Don't forget to ask about a shaker handle and ash pan, if they are not in sight.

If you can find parts info for the Glenwood oaks, please post it. In ten years of searching the internet all I've found is parts info for Glenwood ranges.

Paul

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Post by BlueMountains » Sat. Oct. 08, 2016 12:29 pm

These stoves are not baseburners or double burners?


 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Oct. 08, 2016 5:59 pm

Nope, the 118 is an Oak stove, not a base burner.. No flue gasses routed under the ash drawer area.

But with the optional back pipe, they extract almost as much heat as the base burner. And the 118 has firepot size equal to a Glenwood #8, about 70 pounds of nut coal - bigger than the commonly found #6, which is 50 pounds of nut

Paul

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Oct. 08, 2016 6:03 pm

Sunny Boy wrote:Nope, the 118 is an Oak stove, not a base burner like the stoves on the left-hand side of that page I posted. .. No flue gasses routed under the ash drawer area.

But with the optional back pipe, they extract almost as much heat as the base burner. And the 118 has firepot size equal to a Glenwood #8, about 70 pounds of nut coal - bigger than the commonly found #6, which is 50 pounds of nut

Paul

 
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Post by BlueMountains » Sat. Oct. 08, 2016 6:30 pm

what is the optional back pipe and does anyone have a picture? Almost sounds like a double burner?

Blue

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Oct. 08, 2016 6:50 pm

The back pipe option is an additional length of stove pipe added between the stove's pipe collar the stove pipe. I can post pictures of mine when I get back to my other computer. Or just do a search using, "back pipe+118"

The back pipe is a pipe that has a baffle plate that divides it in half vertically, front from back, with a damper to either allow the flue gases to go directly from the stove to the stove pipe (during refueling).

When the damper is switched to it's other position, it blocks that "direct draft" pathway and the flue gases are routed down the front half of the back pipe, under the baffle plate's lower end, then up the back side of the back pipe to exit into the stove pipe.

The back pipe not only adds more heat extracting surface area, it also adds flue gas flow restriction to slow down the flue gas velocity and give more time for heat extraction before the flue gases reach the stove pipe.

Paul

 
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Post by joeq » Mon. Oct. 10, 2016 4:41 pm

Hey Paul, are your 118s matching book ends, or do you have them hooked up? How long will they burn at an average 400°? Curious about the performance of the oak stoves, compared to the BBs of the same size.

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Oct. 10, 2016 5:17 pm

Joe,
No, they aren't true "book ends" in the sense that they match perfectly. And they are still apart in my sandblasting garage waiting to be spot blasted to do some minor welding repairs.

The #6 I bought from Wilson came up for sale while I was working on them, so they were put on hold.

They don't match in that the first one I bought was set up for coal and has the commonly seen Glenwood Modern Oak mica windows and "gas heater" air defuser secondary air inlet in the loading door. But the back pipe was missing.

The other does not have the mica windows and gas heater type secondary damper, or coal grates because it was a wood burner. But it did have the back pipe, which for a 118 size stove is rare to find at a good price The 118 uses a bigger back pipe than all the other Glenwood Modern Oaks.

Emory said something about a loading door without the mica windows being a Model 18, not a Model 118. But the loading door of mine has the same 118 and part number cast into it as my other 118. :shock: Anyway, everything else matches and I got it cheap, mainly for the back pipe to use as recast pattern.

When I bought the coal magazine for the #6, I bought one for each of the 118's too ..... just in case. :roll:

Since I'll be using the #6 instead, one of my daughters has already claimed and figured the mica door 118 into the plans of the house she is building.

And, ..... what Father could deny his daughter a Glenwood coal/wood stove. :D

Paul

 
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Post by scalabro » Mon. Oct. 10, 2016 5:59 pm

Do have/need a son Paul?

Hahahahaha

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Oct. 10, 2016 6:11 pm

scalabro wrote:Do have/need a son Paul?

Hahahahaha
Not one with such nice Crawfords and Stewarts ;)

Paul


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