Well I was sick of just looking at it so I started to break it down so far no cracks a few stubborn bolts I will have to grind out. It looks like someone re sealed it with the rope stuff and put new bolts in.
Any advice on how you want the rope to seat? Do I want to use furnace cement with the rope? I ask because I know it comes in a variety of sizes and I'm not sure the p/o used the right size or just what the hardware store had.
Any issues using stainless bolts? I know you can't overtighten the bolts because it might crack the cast when it heats up.
I'm going to either sand blast (if my boss rents one this summer or wire wheel all of it should I just keep using polish or can I use 1200 degree vht header paint?
New to Coal Atlanta Model #60 Install in Camper
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How are you going to get a stove pipe high enough on the outside to give it the proper draft to draw?
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I'm planning on using double wall stainless chimney pipe to the forums suggested height and securing it with cable and turn buckles
- warminmn
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I don't have the trouble with draft many here have, but chimney height can really vary as to what is needed. A manometer, around $20-35 new, is a gadget that hooks to your pipe and tells you what your draft pressure is and if you have any draft. You'll be wasting quite a bit of heat up the chimney with that stove so I would think it would draft fairly well. Refractory cement helps seal up the center part of the stove.
Its probably personal preference but I don't usually use anything but the gasket when sealing. Theres a trick to getting your door edges to seal by using wax paper and sealer. Search the sight for wax paper and you should find a DIY posting. The bottom door with the sliders (I think your stove has one) can be tough to seal up. I got where I just covered it over with tin foil, all but one hole, to slow the incoming air.
You can use whatever paint or polish you want to as long as its high heat. They sell stove paint if you want to go that route. I think stainless bolts should be fine if thats what you want to use.
How does your stoves grate work? Does it move side to side thru the bottom door?
Its probably personal preference but I don't usually use anything but the gasket when sealing. Theres a trick to getting your door edges to seal by using wax paper and sealer. Search the sight for wax paper and you should find a DIY posting. The bottom door with the sliders (I think your stove has one) can be tough to seal up. I got where I just covered it over with tin foil, all but one hole, to slow the incoming air.
You can use whatever paint or polish you want to as long as its high heat. They sell stove paint if you want to go that route. I think stainless bolts should be fine if thats what you want to use.
How does your stoves grate work? Does it move side to side thru the bottom door?
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The grate has a square handle and will shake and tip/dump the square handle goes with a tool that came with it BUT the handle sticks out the side of the stove so there is a nice big hole
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I was going to suggest a marine stove but I figured it would blow the budget.ASPHALTVICTORY wrote:I was lusting at a new fatsco midget
I hate to be a party poop, I know you want to try coal. But have you considered a small gas stove? I have seen some very attractive ones that look like wood stoves and vent into a chimney like the double wall stainless you mentioned, but they have a propane burner instead of wood grates. Easy to install, no electricity needed, good looking, all the heat you need, easily controllable from low to high output.
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After last winter I would never choose propane over oil electric. For MY situation I can't get a big tank delivered or have a gas company come to fill it due to the legality of where I'm parked. (On a farm)
That leaves me with what I can carry I have 2 40lb tanks and 2 20lb tanks at that size your limited to light duty regulators. I ran all new copper line a hose with auto switch over regulator and on cold days or nights the regulator would freeze up. 3 am outside taking a heat gun to a propane regulator because my camper is now 42 degrees with the furnace in a continuous safe light cycle.
That leaves me with what I can carry I have 2 40lb tanks and 2 20lb tanks at that size your limited to light duty regulators. I ran all new copper line a hose with auto switch over regulator and on cold days or nights the regulator would freeze up. 3 am outside taking a heat gun to a propane regulator because my camper is now 42 degrees with the furnace in a continuous safe light cycle.
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If where you are is anything like around here, with some companies, if you don't use enough pro-pain, they stick you on the price per gallon. Then it's much more expensive than coal.
I only use it for a gas dryer and stove for about three months out of the year. I have a 47 gallon tank that needs refilling about every two years.
It's getting near time for a refill. Last week, the energy price website says pro-pain is averaging just above $2.00 a gallon around here. I called the two local companies that have had the best prices over the years to check price per gallon. One was $3.69 another was $3.49. Even though it's a lower price because it's the off-season, I don't get the volume discount that the bigger volume uses get for house heat. That $3.49 a gallon works out to the same as what I pay per gallon to have my BBQ tanks refilled.
Paul
I only use it for a gas dryer and stove for about three months out of the year. I have a 47 gallon tank that needs refilling about every two years.
It's getting near time for a refill. Last week, the energy price website says pro-pain is averaging just above $2.00 a gallon around here. I called the two local companies that have had the best prices over the years to check price per gallon. One was $3.69 another was $3.49. Even though it's a lower price because it's the off-season, I don't get the volume discount that the bigger volume uses get for house heat. That $3.49 a gallon works out to the same as what I pay per gallon to have my BBQ tanks refilled.
Paul