Keepaeyeonit wrote:All the doors have the same 1909 patent date but the shaker door says 1932? I haven't ever seen( in pictures anyways) a date cast on the outside of the door, I think there blank but if I'm wrong please correct me.
Another Glenwood Adoption Finalized!
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. Hmmm lobstaman, perhaps we need one of each year.
- Keepaeyeonit
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Thanks for the info William, Ok now I can say I have seen another one other than mine.
The door must on mine must be off a newer stove and I also see the differences in the spring housings for the primary's I wonder that year that changed? Thanks Simon and Hillbilly.
The door must on mine must be off a newer stove and I also see the differences in the spring housings for the primary's I wonder that year that changed? Thanks Simon and Hillbilly.
- tsb
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I have to ask what you plan to heat with this stove. I hope you live in a old
train station or converted barn with no insulation. After retirement, I replaced a
Leisure Line Stoker with a Glenwood #6. Our main living area is 2000 sq ft with
2000 sq ft of bed rooms above. I thought it would heat the main floor an a little would
dribble upstairs to keep the bed rooms in the 60's. We had to open up the door to the
second floor and made good use of the window stats to keep the whole place from going
over 80 degrees. It wasn't a super cold winter, but I can't imagine what a # 8 would do.
Good luck. Get a good supply of Hawaiian shirts and shorts for next winter.
train station or converted barn with no insulation. After retirement, I replaced a
Leisure Line Stoker with a Glenwood #6. Our main living area is 2000 sq ft with
2000 sq ft of bed rooms above. I thought it would heat the main floor an a little would
dribble upstairs to keep the bed rooms in the 60's. We had to open up the door to the
second floor and made good use of the window stats to keep the whole place from going
over 80 degrees. It wasn't a super cold winter, but I can't imagine what a # 8 would do.
Good luck. Get a good supply of Hawaiian shirts and shorts for next winter.
- Canaan coal man
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Hey another stoker to baseburner convert. Cool Im not the only one.tsb wrote:I have to ask what you plan to heat with this stove. I hope you live in a old
train station or converted barn with no insulation. After retirement, I replaced a
Leisure Line Stoker with a Glenwood #6. Our main living area is 2000 sq ft with
2000 sq ft of bed rooms above. I thought it would heat the main floor an a little would
dribble upstairs to keep the bed rooms in the 60's. We had to open up the door to the
second floor and made good use of the window stats to keep the whole place from going
over 80 degrees. It wasn't a super cold winter, but I can't imagine what a # 8 would do.
Good luck. Get a good supply of Hawaiian shirts and shorts for next winter.
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What is wrong with that? I just love the sounds of the steam engines, to me it's home. Remember CN say overkill is good but more overkill is better. You should see me in a grass skirt I am a knockout. It's mostly about the frequency of tending rather than the theoretical heat output. Please give me a list of #8 owners who say, this is too much for me I am selling. yeeeess, I thought not. That should tell you something.I hope you live in a old
train station or converted barn with no insulation.
- Keepaeyeonit
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Well I only have 2400 sqft BI-level and a cold blooded wife that likes it near 80° all winter, I like having more then needed rather then needing and not having so I didn't want to chance It I held out for the larger stove.
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Keepaeyeonit wrote:Well I only have 2400 sqft BI-level and a cold blooded wife that likes it near 80° all winter, I like having more then needed rather then needing and not having so I didn't want to chance It I held out for the larger stove.
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- Other Heating: Heating Oil CH, Toyotomi OM 22
Oh, so wait a minute, so what you are saying it's overkill is good..... I also think it's what a stove can put out when it's running about 350-400*. The coal turns to white dust and it just seems sooo effortless. Hmm, an 80* princess, that beats my spousal unit buy a solid 5*.
- tsb
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Who ever reformatted my post, thank you. I'll get the hang of this sooner or later. Now it looks bad again ?
Last edited by tsb on Thu. Mar. 31, 2016 4:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- wsherrick
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You have no worries my friend. You have ARRIVED. We are a friendly bunch here on Coal Stove Easy Street. Of course we are going to have to make it into a town pretty soon.SWPaDon wrote:Keepaeyeonit wrote:Well I only have 2400 sqft BI-level and a cold blooded wife that likes it near 80° all winter, I like having more then needed rather then needing and not having so I didn't want to chance It I held out for the larger stove.
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i've always wanted something really fine like that but the honest fact is i'd just do something like this with it.....................
http://www.gizmag.com/revatu-steam-powered-custom-motorcycle-black-pearl/37135/
http://www.gizmag.com/revatu-steam-powered-custom-motorcycle-black-pearl/37135/
- Pancho
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Awesome choice of stove. You can easily operate it anywhere from "tame kitten" on the not so cold days to "holy crap...." on the bitter cold days.Keepaeyeonit wrote:Well I only have 2400 sqft BI-level and a cold blooded wife that likes it near 80° all winter, I like having more then needed rather then needing and not having so I didn't want to chance It I held out for the larger stove.
Also of importance is that recast parts are available from Skip and probably Doug.
One thing you may want to address (though not necessary) is that, either by design or casting pattern shift, the ash pan door on most #6's and #8's I've seen has a small gap on the bottom. You can do a search and find how guys have made a gasket....or you can throw a piece of gasketing rope in there.....or you can just not worry about it.
I adjusted my ash door fitment to where all the way around the top and sides of the door gives a good seal and I just throw in a piece of rope for the fall and spring. During the winter I never idle the stove down all the way so it's not an issue.
IF.....if you plan on burning ANY wood in this, PLEASE shoot me a PM before doing so.
Other than that, welcome to the kewl kidz club.
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Or, you can use a feeler gauge and a piece of caulk to mark the tight spots along the door edges. Then file those high spots down so that the areas with gaps get tighter.
That'll bring the doors back to original fit without needing to glue a gasket on.
Paul
That'll bring the doors back to original fit without needing to glue a gasket on.
Paul