Coalpail.com Forum

Hello to all. I am a newby to stoves. This forum has been a wealth of knowledge. I feel like I have a running start. I just acquired an Estate Glory No 18 coal stove made in Hamilton, OH. I want to restore it; however, some parts are loose, broken, or missing. The load door latch is loose. I believe it is peened to the handle. One of the primary air knobs is loose on the screw. This one is also peened. The barrel mounting ring has been broken and welded, but it is crooked. One of the bottom skirt plates has a tab broken off. The barrel is dented badly and sliced through on the side. The shaker handle and ash pan are missing. Any direction or resources will be greatly appreciated.
Ron

Welcome to the forum Mich. Neat looking stove you got there. You didn't mention where you're located, or what your intentions of the stove is. You came to the right place to find help. I'm sure Wilson or Emery can get you started.

Welcome.

Nice stove.

Thanks, guys. I am located in Algonac (SE Michigan). I wanted the stove for emergency heat in the event of a prolonged utility outage. I won't have the stove ready for this season. The room in the photo is the intended home for the stove, but it will be against a different wall. The carpet and wood paneling will have to go. There is an old brick chimney in the center of the house. The inside of the chimney is 9" x 9". I want to tear out the section of wall the chimney is behind to expose it. My house was designed for coal heating. It seems like there used to be a coal stove in the basement and one in the kitchen. The basement has a couple of abandoned holes in the chimney. The kitchen has a 4" hole in the chimney and a 6" hole higher up. The house is 1500 square feet with two stories not including the basement. I currently have a natural gas furnace and water heater plugged into the chimney in the basement. I don't really know anything in the way of what is legal or a good idea as opposed to a bad idea. I do know that I will likely start with burning seasoned wood since I have no coal. I know that I want some instrument to measure the draft in the stove pipe. I also want to have my chimney checked out.

Sounds like you've got a decent start Ron. A centrally located chimney is perfect, and NG heat is tough to beat. With a decorative stove like yours, you could locate it in the center of your house, to show off, and have some supplemental heat as a plus.

I don't know about the codes out there but in New Hampshire and Vermont I know that you cannot have a solid fuel appliance "wood or coal stove" vented into the same flue as a gas appliance

Dana

I found out that NG and coal stoves can not share the same exhaust in Michigan. I'll have to unplug the NG appliances before the chimney sweep will work on it. I also found out that I have an unlined chimney. The mortar work is very coarse, so I will have a flue liner added. The restoration of my stove is moving forward. I had some parts replated.

Lookin good M.

Nice ! Welcome to 'Der Coal Board !

Nice to see something that used to be built in Our area. We'll have to pool a little info and see who's the closest Coal Dealer in Your area. Do You have a Tractor Supply Store around ?

Great Anthracite Supplier in Michigan!!

You may want to take a look at this dealer. Haven't seen an update on him,but You may be able to freshen the thread up after giving him a call...

M, I would research seriously before putting a SS liner in your chimney, if that's the route you're thinkin--on the ash pan, if you still need--check out Freddy in Freddy's Coffee House with dimensions. Research manometers to measure chimney draft. All research-- do search box top right corner right here on the FORUM

Ron sent you a private message with advice from old bricklayer . jack

Plating looks awesome!

I am sandblasting the stove parts. I will then wipe down with acetone and paint with some high temp paint from the hardware store. Do I paint the surfaces that will have sealant on them? I am thinking of using sealant for a caulk gun at the firepot, barrel, and lid and then using fiberglass for the doors. I've been a bit lost in the forum looking for an answer. I also want to have a brick refractory for the firepot. I'm not sure if I should paint first or leave the inside of the parts unpainted. I have stainless sheet steel for the barrel, so if I ever have to burn wood the barrel won't be destroyed by logs leaning against it.

Nice work, MG.

Advice from a friend that worked in a chemical plant - be careful handling acetone. It's a "miscible solvent", meaning it can mix with water. That gives it the ability to be absorbed through the skin. Nitrile gloves are recommended whenever there's a risk of contact. And keep in mind that the fumes are highly flammable.

If the paint has good adhesion, there's no reason you can't put the stove cement over it. And it will help prevent rust creeping out of the seams and getting under the paint's edge if you didn't paint the seam areas.

Paul

I've gotten some sandblasting done. I learned some hard lessons about air compressors and their performance in cold weather. Reed valves tend to break in cold temp operation. So far, I got a shaker handle and sandblasted it. I also got the top lid sandblasted.