UMCO No. 28

 
gafferproject
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Baseburners & Antiques: UMCO No. 28 Fishing Stove

Post by gafferproject » Wed. Oct. 21, 2015 10:53 pm

Hey guys,
this is my first venture into the cast iron heating world and my friend smokedjya said that this was the forum to be in contact with!

The other day I picked up a UMCO No.28 off craigslist.
It's tiny, only about 20" tall and a footprint of only 13" x 15".
It's in over all good shape other than it's missing a few things.

1. It's missing the shaker grate, which I speculate to be somewhere between 4.5" and 5.5" in diameter. I believe I found a picture of it on online; seems to be a circular grate with a rod welded to the bottom. I'll post that picture too.

2. I've seen some stoves have small doors that fold down to conceal the shaker grate handle and if this stove had one to start with, it's missing as well.

I'm wondering if anyone knows where I could get a replacement grate for it. I currently have a 6" castiron drain in there as a make-shift grate but it's too big and sets way too high.

Thanks for any help! :)

Attachments

IMG_4159.jpg

Here it is from the front with a paint can for size.

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IMG_4160.jpg

Sideview

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IMG_4162.jpg

Rearview

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IMG_4163.jpg

Other sideview

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IMG_4165.jpg

Top view

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IMG_4166.jpg

Removing the top plate reveals and interesting sort of burner insert.

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IMG_4168.jpg

Removing the burner shows us down inside the stove.

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IMG_4169.jpg

I believe this is the support that holds up the shaker grate and allows it to pivot.

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IMG_4171.jpg

The front door

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IMG_4173.jpg

I was excited to see that the door slides around to the side instead of simply swinging open. Very cool.

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IMG_4174.jpg

Door to ashbox and main air vents.

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IMG_4175.jpg

Air vents opened.

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IMG_4176.jpg

Ash box door opened.

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IMG_4177.jpg

These are some markings inside the exhaust outlet. Not really sure what they mean.

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IMG_4178.jpg

I tried to measure while holding my phone, but I believe it's approx 5" give or take.

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IMG_4155.PNG

This is what I believe the shaker grate looks like

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Photog200
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Post by Photog200 » Thu. Oct. 22, 2015 7:05 am

To get you started, try the link I am including. Not sure if they will have your grate but they do carry quite a few of them. That stove is pretty rare and smaller than most.

http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com

Randy

 
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Smokeyja
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Post by Smokeyja » Thu. Oct. 22, 2015 11:17 am

Glad to see you made it on here Jordan!

Here is some of the information I was telling you about

http://antiquestoves.net/dir/pot-belly-stoves-sol ... ove-pb-swl

https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/1875794_umco ... -stands-20

 
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Post by Smokeyja » Thu. Oct. 22, 2015 11:29 am

Might want to talk to "blrman07", Larry about his find . It looks like he still had the grate in his. I am sure if you ask nicely you might be able to pay to have a recast made of his.

Scrap Yard Score

 
gafferproject
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Baseburners & Antiques: UMCO No. 28 Fishing Stove

Post by gafferproject » Thu. Oct. 22, 2015 6:03 pm

Photog200 wrote:To get you started, try the link I am including. Not sure if they will have your grate but they do carry quite a few of them. That stove is pretty rare and smaller than most.

http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com

Randy
Hey! I took a look through their parts for coal/wood stoves, some like 1200 different parts and the closest I could find is this 5.5" grate:

http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/16449/products/R ... d_id=65649

Think that'd work?

 
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Post by blrman07 » Fri. Oct. 23, 2015 7:55 am

Sorry guys, I sold the little stove to a guy who was going to install it in a tree house. Can't help with the grate. :cry:

 
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Post by Smokeyja » Fri. Oct. 23, 2015 8:08 am

If you end up not finding one that works let me know and we can figure on building one for you and send it out to have it cast .

next time you swing into Richmond there are a few salvage places you can check out. If I make my one to one I will keep an eye out


 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Fri. Oct. 23, 2015 10:22 am

Josh,
If you make a pattern, be advised.

As you know, the sand gets rammed in around the pattern to force the sand snuggly up against the pattern to get a uniform contact to match the shape of the pattern.

All edges of the pattern in one plain have to have a slight taper of a few degrees so that the sides of that pattern are not quite parallel. That way, when the pattern piece is lifted out of the casting sand, it releases without pulling out chunks of sand with it. Think of it as a wedge shape is easier to pull out than a square shape.

A round,cross section is ok to get a good release from the molding sand, too. But, for grates, a round cross section isn't the best shape for support of a hot firebed. And it doesn't have edges to help break up and move ash as well during shaking.

Paul

 
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Smokeyja
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Post by Smokeyja » Fri. Oct. 23, 2015 4:27 pm

Sunny Boy wrote:Josh,
If you make a pattern, be advised.

As you know, the sand gets rammed in around the pattern to force the sand snuggly up against the pattern to get a uniform contact to match the shape of the pattern.

All edges of the pattern in one plain have to have a slight taper of a few degrees so that the sides of that pattern are not quite parallel. That way, when the pattern piece is lifted out of the casting sand, it releases without pulling out chunks of sand with it. Think of it as a wedge shape is easier to pull out than a square shape.

A round,cross section is ok to get a good release from the molding sand, too. But, for grates, a round cross section isn't the best shape for support of a hot firebed. And it doesn't have edges to help break up and move ash as well during shaking.

Paul
Very good points and I hadn't thought of that. putting a grate together and milling or grinding and 90 degree edges to a 45 should work good . I understand your point on this. I am very glad you mentioned it especially as I am working on fixing parts to go to tomahawk for my Richmond advanced

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Fri. Oct. 23, 2015 6:53 pm

Or, if you know someone who's decent at wood working and has a bench mounted jig, or fret saw, with a tilt table to make the angled cuts, it's an easy job to cut out a round grate pattern from wood.

Paul

 
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Post by Smokeyja » Fri. Oct. 23, 2015 6:57 pm

Sunny Boy wrote:Or, if you know someone who's decent at wood working and has a bench mounted jig, or fret saw, with a tilt table to make the angled cuts, it's an easy job to cut out a round grate pattern from wood.

Paul
hmm I have those tools as well. Interesting idea!

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Fri. Oct. 23, 2015 7:12 pm

Smokeyja wrote:
Sunny Boy wrote:Or, if you know someone who's decent at wood working and has a bench mounted jig, or fret saw, with a tilt table to make the angled cuts, it's an easy job to cut out a round grate pattern from wood.

Paul
hmm I have those tools as well. Interesting idea!
Compensate all measurements by oversizing them by 1/8 inch per foot, to account for casting shrinkage. Layout the grate shape on a piece of wood planed to thickness, or fine-grained plywood.

Drill holes to insert the blade into what will be each open space of the grate.

Set the blade angle to about 5 degrees. Or, if you can, measure and copy the relief angles of your #6 grate teeth sides and the side angles of the center span of the grate bar.

Lightly sand all edges when done.

Paul

 
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Post by joeq » Fri. Oct. 23, 2015 9:02 pm

Welcome to the black rock club. These guys will have you hooked up in no time. Cute little stove. What are your plans for it?

 
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Post by Smokeyja » Fri. Oct. 23, 2015 9:07 pm

Sunny Boy wrote: Compensate all measurements by oversizing them by 1/8 inch per foot, to account for casting shrinkage. Layout the grate shape on a piece of wood planed to thickness, or fine-grained plywood.

Drill holes to insert the blade into what will be each open space of the grate.

Set the blade angle to about 5 degrees. Or, if you can, measure and copy the relief angles of your #6 grate teeth sides and the side angles of the center span of the grate bar.

Lightly sand all edges when done.

Paul
I had not thought about wood at all ! I'm really liking this idea .

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Fri. Oct. 23, 2015 10:00 pm

Smokeyja wrote:
Sunny Boy wrote: Compensate all measurements by oversizing them by 1/8 inch per foot, to account for casting shrinkage. Layout the grate shape on a piece of wood planed to thickness, or fine-grained plywood.

Drill holes to insert the blade into what will be each open space of the grate.

Set the blade angle to about 5 degrees. Or, if you can, measure and copy the relief angles of your #6 grate teeth sides and the side angles of the center span of the grate bar.

Lightly sand all edges when done.

Paul
I had not thought about wood at all ! I'm really liking this idea .
There's a reason that foundry patterns have always been made mostly from wood - even today. ;)

Paul


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