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windyhill4.2
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- Posts: 6072
- Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
- Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
- Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both
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by windyhill4.2 » Mon. Jan. 23, 2017 11:56 am
Sunny Boy wrote:windyhill4.2 wrote:You non-believers of a baro can argue all you want against the benefits of a baro..
A windy day like we are currently having here,20 mph constant wind with gusts up to 45-50 mph will make anyone a believer in the benefits of a baro.... if they have any brains
My baro can't even keep after with these winds,even with the baro doing it's best my stove still fires harder with the normal setting.
Baro on hand fed stove with no bi-metallic air damper = easy control.
So people were stupid before baros came along ? Or did they just get stupid and forget how to build stoves and chimneys that worked fine without need of a baro ?
Paul
No, they were not stupid for not embracing something that had not yet been invented (roll eyes)
Manual trannies were the norm in cars yrs ago,now even many semi's & farm tractors offer partial or fully auto trannies. (it is called progress)
A baro is an automatic check damper & is not intended for use on FF's Hitzer. (wink,wink)
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Sunny Boy
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- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
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by Sunny Boy » Mon. Jan. 23, 2017 12:17 pm
My point being is,...... how did they get along so well and for so long without baro's ?
You might think about the possibility that baro's weren't needed until stove and chimney design changed to where using a baro became necessary to make up for changes in earlier design.
Paul
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tcalo
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- Location: Long Island, New York
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
- Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite
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by tcalo » Mon. Jan. 23, 2017 12:23 pm
Well, the baro is back on. The winds were pulling the mano needle close to .1 at times, now it's quite steady and staying under .05. Like Paul said, it's most likely not enough to affect the fire, just a piece of mind!
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Sunny Boy
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- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
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by Sunny Boy » Mon. Jan. 23, 2017 12:31 pm
[quote="tcalo"]Well, the baro is back on. The winds were pulling the mano needle close to .1 at times, now it's quite steady and staying under .05. Like Paul said, it's most likely not enough to affect the fire, just a piece of mind![/quote
Would have been interesting to get some temperature readings off the same spots on the stove pipe surface just to compare.
The most I've ever had the mano readings move was plus, or minus, about .02. And those were during windy conditions that brought down branches and trees in the area. But the pipe surface stays within the same temperature range as when there is little, or no wind.
Some have said opening their check damper helped level off the mano swings somewhat. I've never seen it do that with mine. It just lowers the average, but not the total variation. But then my check damper is in the stove body not the pipe.
Paul
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windyhill4.2
- Member
- Posts: 6072
- Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
- Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
- Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both
Post
by windyhill4.2 » Mon. Jan. 23, 2017 1:03 pm
Sunny Boy wrote:My point being is,...... how did they get along so well and for so long without baro's ?
You might think about the possibility that baro's weren't needed until stove and chimney design changed to where using a baro became necessary to make up for changes in earlier design.
Paul
How did folks get along so well & for so long without ELECTRIC ??? Answer.... they did not miss it because it was not available.
How did folks get along so well & for so long without (fill in the blank)
I am not saying that everyone needs a baro on their heating unit,i am not saying that all stoves need a baro...
Sunnyboy,the difference is that you ALWAYS fight & bicker against the use of a baro .... ALWAYS.
Does it really matter if someone wants to use a baro for their setup ??
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Sunny Boy
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- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
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by Sunny Boy » Mon. Jan. 23, 2017 1:18 pm
windyhill4.2 wrote:Sunny Boy wrote:My point being is,...... how did they get along so well and for so long without baro's ?
You might think about the possibility that baro's weren't needed until stove and chimney design changed to where using a baro became necessary to make up for changes in earlier design.
Paul
How did folks get along so well & for so long without ELECTRIC ??? Answer.... they did not miss it because it was not available.
How did folks get along so well & for so long without (fill in the blank)
I am not saying that everyone needs a baro on their heating unit,i am not saying that all stoves need a baro...
Sunnyboy,the
difference is that you ALWAYS fight & bicker against the use of a baro .... ALWAYS.
Does it really matter if someone wants to use a baro for their setup ??
A generalization that is wrong Dave.
In fact I own two stove systems that use baros - one of which I built and installed and set up the baro on it. I just don't see the need of putting one on a hand fed coal stove that obviously does not need one.
If your setup needs a baro, I'm fine with that and I'm never said don't use it. Just don't try to give the impression that all hand feds without a flapper valve need one.
Paul
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tcalo
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- Location: Long Island, New York
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by tcalo » Mon. Jan. 23, 2017 1:46 pm
Every situation is different. When I first hooked up my G109 I had a very strong draft and was having trouble taming it. I read that baro's on bb's wasn't the best idea. I guess my setup was the exception. It helped me out a lot in keeping my draft in check.
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Sunny Boy
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- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
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by Sunny Boy » Mon. Jan. 23, 2017 1:50 pm
tcalo wrote:Every situation is different. When I first hooked up my G109 I had a very strong draft and was having trouble taming it. I read that baro's on bb's wasn't the best idea. I guess my setup was the exception. It helped me out a lot in keeping my draft in check.
Yup, there are exceptions. A lot of stove owners would love to have the draft problem you have.
Paul
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windyhill4.2
- Member
- Posts: 6072
- Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
- Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
- Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both
Post
by windyhill4.2 » Mon. Jan. 23, 2017 1:59 pm
Sunny Boy wrote:My point being is,...... how did they get along so well and for so long without baro's ?
You might think about the possibility that baro's weren't needed until stove and chimney design changed to where using a baro became necessary to make up for changes in earlier design.
Paul
How did those very smart folks get along without a mano for so well for so long ?
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Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25728
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Post
by Sunny Boy » Mon. Jan. 23, 2017 2:06 pm
windyhill4.2 wrote:Sunny Boy wrote:My point being is,...... how did they get along so well and for so long without baro's ?
You might think about the possibility that baro's weren't needed until stove and chimney design changed to where using a baro became necessary to make up for changes in earlier design.
Paul
How did those very smart folks get along without a mano for so well for so long ?
Has nothing to do with what stoves need, or what ones don't need, baros.
Paul
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tcalo
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by tcalo » Mon. Jan. 23, 2017 2:09 pm
Lets agree to disagree...
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scalabro
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- Location: Western Massachusetts
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40, PP Stewart No. 14, Abendroth Bros "Record 40"
- Coal Size/Type: Stove / Anthracite.
- Other Heating: Oil fired, forced hot air.
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by scalabro » Mon. Jan. 23, 2017 4:39 pm
Dang it, I had to work and missed this whole thing!!!
You know Tom, a larger fire pot would be less affected by your Frankenstein chimney........
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Wren
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by Wren » Mon. Jan. 23, 2017 6:01 pm
Lincoln Brewster. Beautiful.
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scalabro
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by scalabro » Mon. Jan. 23, 2017 6:13 pm
Good eyes!
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freetown fred
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by freetown fred » Mon. Jan. 23, 2017 7:29 pm
T, just gotta ask---did you try a MPD first? I'm neither for nor against baro's--just curious.
tcalo wrote:Every situation is different. When I first hooked up my G109 I had a very strong draft and was having trouble taming it. I read that baro's on bb's wasn't the best idea. I guess my setup was the exception. It helped me out a lot in keeping my draft in check.