Our Glenwood 109
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- Member
- Posts: 370
- Joined: Mon. Dec. 16, 2013 7:55 pm
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood, Crawford, Magee, Herald, Others
Very cool...........
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25754
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
"Coal family"michaelanthony wrote: ↑Sun. Dec. 10, 2017 7:50 amT, that is the perfect picture to use if you had to describe "family" love it!
Paul
- tcalo
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- Posts: 2073
- Joined: Tue. Dec. 13, 2011 4:57 pm
- Location: Long Island, New York
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
- Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite
Frigid and windy today...bitter cold out! I love these cold temps though, it gives me a chance to really open up the stove. It's so much easier to clean the ash out. My stove bridges beautifully, the hotter I burn the more solid of a bridge I get. It enables me to really dig out all the ash and get the coal bed clean without the pot collapsing. When the stove is cranking I actually have to manually collapse the bed from the top!
- joeq
- Member
- Posts: 5744
- Joined: Sat. Feb. 11, 2012 11:53 am
- Location: Northern CT
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson
Ditto with all you said Tom. I've only been burning a week, and haven't had a bridge as solid as yours, but I know what you mean. Are you using stove coal? I think it bridges better than nut? Or maybe I'm just imagining it.
- tcalo
- Member
- Posts: 2073
- Joined: Tue. Dec. 13, 2011 4:57 pm
- Location: Long Island, New York
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
- Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite
I'm using nut coal. I never used stove coal, not sure how long of a burn I'd get out of it. The pot on my G109 is only 9" wide. I think the skinny width actually helps the coal bed bridge though.
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25754
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Interestingly, the rectangular firebox of my range is only 7 inches wide and it doesn't bridge with nut coal. Must be a round pot thing.
Paul
Paul
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- Member
- Posts: 4197
- Joined: Wed. Oct. 03, 2012 9:53 am
- Location: Western Massachusetts
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40, PP Stewart No. 14, Abendroth Bros "Record 40"
- Coal Size/Type: Stove / Anthracite.
- Other Heating: Oil fired, forced hot air.
Yep.
Plus the gas insulated firepot helps keep the center of the bed ripping hot!
Tommy is correct in that the smaller the diameter the “better” the bridge. And smaller coal (nut) seems to bridge better as well. The coal itself probably plays a part too.
- Canaan coal man
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- Posts: 822
- Joined: Thu. Nov. 08, 2012 12:37 pm
- Location: East Canaan, CT
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Efm 520
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: A little cubby coal stove in the basement
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood #6
- Coal Size/Type: Stove And Nut
I get bridging and i have almost double the pot diameter. Im burning range coal (buck to stove size). every 12 hour tend i will shake then take my poker and push the top of the fire bed down and settle it on the grates, but not poke thru the established bed. I have to do this when barrel temps run 350* plus...........
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- Member
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Tue. Feb. 28, 2023 4:33 am
- Location: West Allis WI
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: King Oak 19B
- Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Nut
- Other Heating: Harman Absolute43 wood pellet. Lamppa Kuuma Vapor-Fire 200 gasification wood furnace.
Where do you have the weight set to, on the baro? I’ve had one and I hated it, because my 32’ chimney has a 8” SS rigid liner; which draws up a lot of air. It was on a Lamppa Kuuma Gasification add-on wood furnace, that didn’t heat the ambient basement air and drew in a lot of cold air; into my 1914 house. Your lecture in your Baro 101 course, changed my attitude and I will add; to make my novice use of a potbelly easier.
- tcalo
- Member
- Posts: 2073
- Joined: Tue. Dec. 13, 2011 4:57 pm
- Location: Long Island, New York
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
- Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite
Welcome to the forum. I forget exactly where the weight was set. I had taken the baro apart, cleaned it up and repainted it so the adjustments were off from factory settings. I had it adjusted so the flap opens at a draft of about -.03 using a manometer, I hope that helps. I’ve since switched stoves and am currently running without one. They are a great asset and I may put the baro back on it the future. The only issue I’ve ever had was it stuck open once, probably from a strong gust! I wasn’t home at the time. When I finally got home the draft was quite low and some gasses backed up into the house. Nothing too serious though, the stove was still chugging along and all CO detectors were quiet!WIburnerPaul wrote: ↑Wed. Mar. 01, 2023 10:36 pmWhere do you have the weight set to, on the baro? I’ve had one and I hated it, because my 32’ chimney has a 8” SS rigid liner; which draws up a lot of air. It was on a Lamppa Kuuma Gasification add-on wood furnace, that didn’t heat the ambient basement air and drew in a lot of cold air; into my 1914 house. Your lecture in your Baro 101 course, changed my attitude and I will add; to make my novice use of a potbelly easier.