Newbie With "Retort Peninsular No214"

turbotom wrote:"mano gauge", like what used to measure propane flow when setting up a propane burner? is this something inexpensive? definitely want to fix the check damper, just not sure how ill go about it, im hoping someone will chime in with some parts....? love this forum, great stuff here.

A mano gauge can measure very slight differences in gas pressure, such as the lower pressure inside the flue we call "draft", compared to room air pressure.

If you do a search you'll find lots of info on how to set up and use them, plus what people are observing about their stoves to help adjust the dampers to get the maximum safe heat output. This Mark 2 model by Dwyer is the most common one used by the guys on here (cause like many of us, it's the cheapest one that works well ! ). http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PAN3C8/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

The check draft plate knob's shaft looks like it's simply peened over on the inside of the plate. A new plate can be made by cutting some 1/8 inch sheet steel to size, bend a matching curve in it, drill the plate and refasten the handle to it.

Paul

franco b wrote:

Sunny Boy wrote: I think it would be a good idea to fix the check damper. If his set up has a strong draft, or if he wants to run a wood fire, it could come in very handy to help control and slow down the burn rate. And with it fixed and operating, he has the option of using it, or not.

I just think it too potentially dangerous. Very few will be aware to the degree that you are.

Me, ... aware ?

Seriously though I understand what you mean. Actually, with a mano gauge hooked up, it's very easy to learn when, and when not ,to use the check damper. About an hour of experimenting with it, while watching the gauge readings, will show the affect it has on that stove's draft. Then checking it again on windy, and again on warm days, will show if there is any back draft danger range for that set up and those conditions.

And he should have a few new CO monitors in the house, whether there's a working check damper, or not.

Paul

excellent information, thank you everyone, more pics to come!! taking my die grinder home tonight after work to get some of these pesky rusted fasteners off so I can get down to the meat of this stove and replace the sheet metal.

turbotom wrote:excellent information, thank you everyone, more pics to come!! taking my die grinder home tonight after work to get some of these pesky rusted fasteners off so I can get down to the meat of this stove and replace the sheet metal.

Grind merrily away, . . . but don't forget that little bit of information about having new CO (carbon monoxide) detectors installed before you fire that thing up.

Paul

Got it torn down to almost every last bolt. Has a 2 piece fire pot , makes it very deep! No visible cracks anywhere yet......will see after it hits the hot tank At the machine shop and then a trip through the bead blaster. Not sure yet where I can get the barrel reproduced? It was all good other than the bottom seam where it gets pinched together between the two firepots and the base. Really digging this project so far.

stove is comming along! my daughter approves.

I had one of those funky drafts on my cookstove and used it a lot to slow the burn down, but that was with wood.

Turbo, I sent you a message to do with your bit coal source. On the top of the page where it says new messages is how you get to it.

Cool project!

You're having fun and it will keep you warm

Take your time and do it right. The stove will reward you for years and years. It will also burn Bituminous Coal much, much better than anything made now. We want to see it all fired up so don't forget.

this is all great to hear guys! I was a little worried seeing as I cannot find another stove like it or any info on it. I am taking my time, I have bead blasted every piece of cast iron and completely disassembled every piece. new black stove paint is being applied, and a new barrel fabricated. im wondering if the seams of the stove were strictly cement or if gaskets were used as well, couldn't tell as the old stuff was like dust. should I use stove cement or the caulk type stuff? the oe stuff looked black and was somewhat soft, (what was left) any info or advice is appreciated.

Likely no gaskets for a stove of that era.

This stuff works very well.
https://www.lehmans.com/p-3143-hearthstone-stove-cement.aspx

Paul

I bought furnace cement and fireplace mortar, made by mecco's red devil, comes in a 1/2 pint tub. it was 4$ haven't used it yet though. Maybe I shouldn't use it? the stuff you posted in the link is 19.99$ per tube. seems better. says water soluable even after its fired? does that mean if the stove gets damp the joints will fall apart?

turbotom wrote:I bought furnace cement and fireplace mortar, made by mecco's red devil, comes in a 1/2 pint tub. it was 4$ haven't used it yet though. Maybe I shouldn't use it? the stuff you posted in the link is 19.99$ per tube. seems better. says water soluable even after its fired? does that mean if the stove gets damp the joints will fall apart?

The Red Devil will work well. The secret to a good seal on the stove is simple. The joints MUST be absolutely CLEAN. These stoves don't use gaskets.
Another thing, don't be stingy with the cement. Put enough so extra oozes out of the joint when you tighten the bolts. Just wipe it off. In this manner you have insured a good, uniform seal.

i painted each piece separately while disassembled, including the joint surfaces...... is the cement going to bond well to the stove paint? or should I be wire wheeling the joint surfaces to bare metal prior? im still waiting on the mica glass and brass screen, and need to get new hardware yet to assemble this beast. then the chimney........ 6"? 7"? 8"?, so many options, plus I cant decide where in my living room to put it, as it has to be at least 3 feet from the wall or my ins company wont let me install it! I also have to build a platform with heat shield and air gap under the stove and fireproof board as well.... ugh $$$$$ lol still excited tho.

I don't know the answer for sure on the painted joints but wouldnt think it would matter.

Whatever size the pipe is that is coming out of the stove, is likely the size your chimney should be. Not under 6" though.

You don't legally need 3 feet from your stove if you use a shield, which cuts that distance in half. Pipe needs 18" without a shield, half that with a shield. or if you use the black double all (not the insulated stuff), then it knocks it down to 6" clearance. All distances are from combustable materials, even if inside the wall.

im not sure of codes under the stove but what you said sounds tough. I do think your insurance person sounds a little under informed, or is overly cautious, or doesnt like your stove, or maybe stupid, Im not sure. You may have to talk to them again after you get all the rules figured out.

There is also a distance on the floor surrounding the stove that needs to be protected. I'm not sure on the rules there either, but cant imagine it being more than 18" from the stove.