PP Stewart No 14

PJT · Post by **PJT** » Mon. Mar. 10, 2014 9:41 pm

Sunny B-

On the bottom support of your back pipe, what blocks off the clean out hole? Is it airtight?

davidmcbeth3 · Post by **davidmcbeth3** » Tue. Mar. 11, 2014 1:58 am

SWPaDon wrote:
Gekko wrote:Grabbed this Stewart base burner

Now I need to build another chimney on the other end of the house.

Just be sure to stand it upright before firing.

Nice looking stove.

That's what THEY expect you to do ....

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Tue. Mar. 11, 2014 5:31 am

PJT wrote:Sunny B-

On the bottom support of your back pipe, what blocks off the clean out hole? Is it airtight?

Pete,

Like the flue clean-outs on other Glenwoods, it has a small door that hooks in place at it's bottom lip. Then there is a turn-button at the top that pushes it in tight as the button is turned down and overlaps the edge of the cover.

I wouldn't call it "air-tight", . . . but it is very well fitted and about as close to air tight as any un-gasketed joint on a stove.

You can just make out the turn-button in it's up position, in the second picture.

Paul

PJT · Post by **PJT** » Tue. Mar. 11, 2014 10:54 am

Paul
Is it cast iron or sheet metal?

scalabro · Post by **scalabro** » Tue. Mar. 11, 2014 11:32 am

Title......."PP Stewart 14"

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Tue. Mar. 11, 2014 11:51 am

Gekko wrote:Title......."PP Stewart 14"

Yes sir !

"......................... My Crawfords base pan has the gasses travel down the sides of the base then turn and go under the the ash pan, then turn again towards the rear of the stove, then up and out the back pipe. .........."

" I have seen that a Magee Crown stove is a FULL baseburner/heater as well. "

"................... Another tidbit is that on the Crwaford 2 the back pipe has to be custom fabricated due to its oddball size oval. ............"

"......................... I do not believe it will be as efficient as an equivalent size Crawford, like a 3/30, but I'm no expert. .................."

Paul

scalabro · Post by **scalabro** » Tue. Mar. 11, 2014 1:11 pm

Ok you got me

What are everyone's thoughts on the triple 7 disappearance?

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Tue. Mar. 11, 2014 2:10 pm

Gekko wrote:Ok you got me

What are everyone's thoughts on the triple 7 disappearance?

Paul

scalabro · Post by **scalabro** » Sat. Mar. 15, 2014 6:05 pm

Ok, so here is my setup to clean all the parts I'm going to re use on this restoration.

It is a homemade electrolysis setup consisting of a 12v battery charger, leads with large alligator clips, a plastic tub, an anode (a large piece of scrap iron) and a solution of sodium carbonate and tap water. It makes hydrogen gas as a by product so it's outside the garage while it's working.

It supposedly will remove nickel plating too, I hope so as that will save some costs on the nickel job.

I'll post pics of the cleaned part tomorrow.

scalabro · Post by **scalabro** » Sat. Mar. 22, 2014 12:17 pm

Before and after pics of 3 legs.

I'm finding that the 100+ year old stove polish takes longer than expected to be removed from the bottom of the casting details.

I think I need a charger that is capable of higher amperage.

wsherrick · Post by **wsherrick** » Tue. Mar. 25, 2014 12:24 am

The cleaning job looks great. Remember to coat the cleaned parts with something to prevent rust. The rust starts almost instantly after you strip the parts.

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Tue. Mar. 25, 2014 6:11 am

Gekko wrote:Before and after pics of 3 legs.

I'm finding that the 100+ year old stove polish takes longer than expected to be removed from the bottom of the casting details.

I think I need a charger that is capable of higher amperage.

Electrolysis doesn't like to work through insulators such as paints and oils. Plating shops use a couple of different cleaning baths to remove paints, animal oils/fats (finger prints), and lubricating oil/grease/wax preservatives, before they go to the electrolysis stripping .

Try soaking the parts in lacquer thinner first. It will do a decent job of removing all of those type coatings.

Paul

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Tue. Mar. 25, 2014 6:17 am

wsherrick wrote:The cleaning job looks great. Remember to coat the cleaned parts with something to prevent rust. The rust starts almost instantly after you strip the parts.

Yes !!!!
Especially if you rinse the parts with warm, or hot water, which you should.

What engine rebuilders use after steel or iron parts come out after soaking clean in a caustic hot tank and hot water wash. While the parts are still warm and wet from the final rinse, put the parts on newspaper and spray a wet coating all over the parts with CRC, or WD40 to lift the water off the surfaces as it dries. They will prevent rust until you wash the parts with solvent prep just before painting.

Paul

scalabro · Post by **scalabro** » Fri. May. 02, 2014 2:03 pm

Just a quick update....

I'm having a one piece 36 inch barrel rolled at a shop in Chicopee that came highly recommended.

Included in the work package is a newly fabricated 3 piece fire pot made out of 3/16 steel. I want to use Inconel but Walter said it may be cost prohibitive. He is going to check on Inconel sheet prices for me.

They are also going to modify a Glenwood 111 top ring to fit the Stewart since it was missing, and fabricate a new ash pan using all the original fittings and hardware.

I did some glass beading and took some jewelers files to the "Stewart" casting to detail it some then it's off to Mickeys in Holyoke for nickel work.

I want to nickel the entire front plate and load door but will it look to "Pimped"?

If you look close at the last picture you can see what appears to be a steel shim or cap that was installed on the load door catch. You can just make out the tabs that attach it to the casting. What craftsmanship!

Some pics now and some more in a few weeks as progress occurs.

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Fri. May. 02, 2014 3:27 pm

They cleaned up very nicely Gek.

Bling is in the eye of the beholder. Because of my work, I tend toward making it look as much like it did when it left that factory as humanly possible. Goes along with preservation of a historic item that is also functional. I'm not a fan of changing history. But that gets me dirty looks and sometimes nasty comments from the street rod guys !

Is that a crack right at the beginning of the left hand most scroll of the PPStewart plate ?

Paul

PP Stewart No 14

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