Glenwood No.6 Base Pan.

Then I'd be cleaning and industrial epoxy gluing that one back together, plus adding to it's width and length by cutting and filling gaps in proportion to the 1/8 inch to the foot shrinkage of recasts. I'd ignore adding to the height which will have the least change affected by shrinkage,...... and it's height is not as critical anyway.

Then I'd "fatten" it with high build primers.

You only need it to be strong enough to have casting sand rammed in around it. I'd have every confidence in gluing it back together using a good marine grade, high-strength, slow-cure epoxy, such as "System Three's T-88 " from Jamestown Distributors,

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/s ... l+Adhesive

Approximately 8000 psi joints after 7 days, it'll be strong enough for what you need. It's the modern equivalent of the old, proven Miracle Adhesive's marine epoxy. It's all I use in my antique auto structural wood restoration.

Works well with wide glue joints, but adding a filler such as autobody talc, or micro balloons, or fine saw dust, and using it to hold and fill the wider gaps needed to compensate for recast shrinkage, it will be plenty strong enough to use it as a pattern.

Just use waxed paper wherever you don't want the epoxy to stick. And make sure there is no trace of any kind of oil wherever you do want it to stick !

Least, that's what I'd do.

Paul

that all sounds good but I have recast them before, years ago with a local foundry in ma. he did 3 for me than we stoped. this is my answer to It now

Wilson,
What he's talking about is not just the base pan, like the plate steel one you welded up for my #6, but the floor of the ash drawer, ... which you show upside-down in your last photo above.

How would you go about duplicating that ash drawer floor pan ?

Paul

Paul the second pic shows the ash pit floor, right where the lead is there is a crack (you can just barley see it .I will cut It there and again where It is solid, Always, the piece I add will be about 6 inches long, cut the same piece off Another one that's for parts,Fitt it in weld and done. the ash pit floor of Dennis s is reparable but the pan is just to thin to weld . But could be easly glued back together. trouble is It is thin and the foundry's in the past can not seem to get such a big piece to flow. Maybe tomahawk would have no trouble with it. For me its easy to build a new,the one pictured I have about 4 houres in It, the corners take the time to weld (I use 33/2 6013) and have to lay it out and weld it against itself to keep it cool and not let it warp. Once its done it will last as long as the cast one. Made thin so as to heat up ( which it needs that temp to keep the exhaust flowing) and the weight is the same as the cast. When I repair the ash floor,( the one you seein the pic) I will take pic and post it here,My part for that is under the snow. Skip

wilsons woodstoves wrote:Paul the second pic shows the ash pit floor, right where the lead is there is a crack (you can just barley see it .I will cut It there and again where It is solid, Always, the piece I add will be about 6 inches long, cut the same piece off Another one that's for parts,Fitt it in weld and done. the ash pit floor of Dennis s is reparable but the pan is just to thin to weld . But could be easly glued back together. trouble is It is thin and the foundry's in the past can not seem to get such a big piece to flow. Maybe tomahawk would have no trouble with it. For me its easy to build a new,the one pictured I have about 4 houres in It, the corners take the time to weld (I use 33/2 6013) and have to lay it out and weld it against itself to keep it cool and not let it warp. Once its done it will last as long as the cast one. Made thin so as to heat up ( which it needs that temp to keep the exhaust flowing) and the weight is the same as the cast. When I repair the ash floor,( the one you seein the pic) I will take pic and post it here,My part for that is under the snow. Skip

What ISN'T under snow over there ?

Nice fix. Yes, please keep posting progress pix.

In my talks with Al at Tomahawk he mentioned about the minimum thickness to get molten iron to flow into all parts of the mold. That's partly the reason why I've used the high-build primers to "fatten" parts I've tuned into patterns.

Having worked with Bondo, fiberglass, and spray painting for many years, I find that sprayed on coatings go on as a more uniform layer than just using hand applied Bondo, or fiberglass to fatten parts.

My concern was that if the layers of whatever is used to make the pattern thicker are not uniform, the casting will have thick and thin areas that may unevenly heat up and stress the part with un-uniform expansion/contraction as the temps change. I don't know for certain that would happen, but since I have a choice I go with the most uniform.

Your method of welding in better metal avoids having to make that choice.

Paul