Glenwood No.6 Base Pan.

Dennis ,do you have a elbow with a check on it? If you do not look up my post 2 weeks ago (morden oak 116 back pipe exposed) I have been using a 116 with coal, I fitted a set of glenwood base heater gas rings in it and a check damper in the back pipe cap. If you could use one of these dampers I will be glad to mail you one. takes some grinding and drilling but is making me like this oak stove. I have a bucket full of these that are to rusty to nickel plate. Wilson

Wilson,

Can you tell us more about how you fitted the gas ring into the 116 ? What about any air feed holes to the ring ? Any pictures ?

Paul

Paul, I will get some pics up soon. I needed a coal stove to replace my glenwood parlor (firewood under 3 feet of snow) had a 116 morden oak .As I was hooking it up I noticed it looked a lot like a b. h.I had a set of rings and the116 did not have any brick in it, the rings fell into place the front(manifold, if you will) ends fit, just to long. Cut it in half, overlapped it in the stove, marked it and cut the extra off and welded It. Drilled holes in the front of stove to let in air About12 two of which take bolts to hold it in. That is when I made the draft reg. fit into the back pipe cap. That is how the herald oak check was made. Wilson

No sure how I got this on an old thread, I was trying to pm d Hansen. any way here are the pics

Nice !

That gas ring should work much better at preheating and more evenly distributing hot secondary air over the coal bed than the Modern Oak's "gas defuser" secondary damper in the loading door.

So, I thought you swore off wood, .... or did you suddenly get younger and stronger ?

Paul

Dennis - The person to talk with about these base pans is Skip Wilson @ Wilson's wood stoves. He is an expert on these stoves and has a very skillful way of repairing them. He is an expert welder (he's a boiler maker). I believe he posted a lot of details on this process a year or two ago. Those posts have lots of info - check them out. His phone number is 508-763-8941

I have an unrestored No. 6 myself. Fortunately, the base pan is perfect.

Hope this helps - Chris

P.S. - I didn't notice that Skip had joined the conversation before my post - my mistake!

chrisbuick wrote:Dennis - The person to talk with about these base pans is Skip Wilson @ Wilson's wood stoves. He is an expert on these stoves and has a very skillful way of repairing them. He is an expert welder (he's a boiler maker). I believe he posted a lot of details on this process a year or two ago. Those posts have lots of info - check them out. His phone number is 508-763-8941

I have an unrestored No. 6 myself. Fortunately, the base pan is perfect.

Hope this helps - Chris

P.S. - I didn't notice that Skip had joined the conversation before my post - my mistake!

No problem Chris. Skip has all the pieces of my bottom chamber as it is. I wish there was a way to get my hands on your base pan. I have a friend that is well versed in the world of computer aided drafting and machining. We have talked about digitally recreating the base pan and using the file to create an improved pattern to cast new parts from. The tricky part is I'm in Maine and he is in California and we both already have more projects than you can shake a stick at. I've also wondered if it would be possible to take a good base, clean it and use bondo or epoxy putty to "grow" the original enough to compensate for shrinkage and to add reinforcement. Once you were finished with the so-called pattern, the filler material could be cleaned off and the part would be returned to service.

Any thoughts?

wilsons woodstoves wrote:Dennis ,do you have a elbow with a check on it? If you do not look up my post 2 weeks ago (morden oak 116 back pipe exposed) I have been using a 116 with coal, I fitted a set of glenwood base heater gas rings in it and a check damper in the back pipe cap. If you could use one of these dampers I will be glad to mail you one. takes some grinding and drilling but is making me like this oak stove. I have a bucket full of these that are to rusty to nickel plate. Wilson

I have one of those elbows on the NO.6 out in the barn. I saw you post about your project and thought it was a good idea. I'm not going to mess with it this year but if I stay with the No.116 it might be worth doing. Right now my biggest concern with the 116 is the grates. The gears have never meshed well because the replacement grates are not the correct length and they now have some warping issues. I can still shake down OK so there is no panic but once (if ever) we are done with this miserable winter I'll be taking them out and looking to get them working properly even if I end up getting a new set.

I think your mods to that 116 are interesting and look forward to hearing about the stoves performance.

Dennis

Guys,

If I could just throw something out here. how about having the thing laser scanned . Then you could expand the digital copy by a percentage . Then send the file to a 3D printer and have the plugs made.I don't think that 3D printing process is that expensive.....

waldo lemieux wrote:Guys,

If I could just throw something out here. how about having the thing laser scanned . Then you could expand the digital copy by a percentage . Then send the file to a 3D printer and have the plugs made.I don't think that 3D printing process is that expensive.....

Exactly what my friend and I are thinking. All I need now is time and money........... and a good part to start with. Seems like it shouldn't be that difficult.

Yeah, right!

dhansen wrote: .................................................................... I've also wondered if it would be possible to take a good base, clean it and use bondo or epoxy putty to "grow" the original enough to compensate for shrinkage and to add reinforcement. Once you were finished with the so-called pattern, the filler material could be cleaned off and the part would be returned to service.

Any thoughts?

Dennis,
Yes, you can "grow" the parts to compensate from shrinkage. On smaller areas Bondo type plastic fillers work well, have good adhesion on clean metal, are easy to file and sand to shape.

For large flat pieces, the problem is in getting the thickness consistent. There are "heavy build" type primers and fillers that are used in autobody work that can be sprayed on to thicken parts. That makes them much more uniform in thickness than trying to use fiberglass or epoxy fillers to do that.

The grate bars in the picture are for my range.

At the top of the picture are the pattern pieces I sent to Tomahawk to recast the lower parts.

The top one is a good original grate bar from my range. I lengthened it by adding Bondo to thicken the rear tooth and lengthen the shaft at the back. Plus by also adding to the triangular grate shaker stub end a bit more length, plus repair where the triangular stub edges were worn from 111 years of the handle shaking the grates.

The cogs (grate bar gears) had worn teeth. Again, built back to original shape using Bondo.

The small firebrick retainer (on the far right ) had it's brick retaining edges eaten away by 111 years of heat. I built those curved edges back with Bondo also.

Then to "fatten" the pattern parts to compensate for shrinkage in all directions, I sprayed several coats of high-build epoxy primer. That also preserves the parts, plus allowed my to put my name and phone number on each part with a Sharpie pen so that the parts wouldn't get lost at the foundry.

Wilson taught me that after all that work, you NEVER put the pattern pieces back into use. You save them for future recasting when needed.

Paul

Thanks for the input Paul. I suspect we think an awfully lot alike since I too made my living for many years doing drafting work and technical illustration. I've also done a fair amount of auto and marine construction and restoration. I've used high build primer many times in both worlds so I know exactly what you are getting at.

Sometimes I think the best thing that could be done with my broken up base pans would be to piece them back together as best as possible and then turn them into patterns rather than repairing them with the goal of putting them back into a stove. The question is, are there enough Glenwood No.6 stoves out there without base pans that it would be worth coming up with a pattern? I'd also ask what the chances are of making a good part from the pattern? The folks at Tomahawk Casting told me that it would be a difficult part to recast.

In the end it might just make the most sense to proceed as Wilson proposed, put the pieces back together by whatever means and put them back in the stove. All I know is that I'd like to have myself a base burner of some sort for next winter. It's frustrating every time I go in the barn and see 3/4's of a Glenwood No.6 sitting there useless. I've learned over the years to be patient and that in time the right boat, car, airplane, gun, Gravely, or parts there of will turn up. I assume that works for stoves too!

wilsons woodstoves wrote:Paul, I will get some pics up soon. I needed a coal stove to replace my glenwood parlor (firewood under 3 feet of snow) had a 116 morden oak .As I was hooking it up I noticed it looked a lot like a b. h.I had a set of rings and the116 did not have any brick in it, the rings fell into place the front(manifold, if you will) ends fit, just to long. Cut it in half, overlapped it in the stove, marked it and cut the extra off and welded It. Drilled holes in the front of stove to let in air About12 two of which take bolts to hold it in. That is when I made the draft reg. fit into the back pipe cap. That is how the herald oak check was made. Wilson

Brilliant! (I just had a chance to study the pictures to see what you had done). Like I said in my first reply, it will be interesting to see how this all works.

I think Wilson came up with the best solution,...... both short and long term. The 1/8 inch thick plate steel welded pan he made for my #6.

I can beat on it with a hammer and at best I'd only be able to put dents in it. It's ridged enough that it won't warp and it will never crack. Plus, as Dave pointed out the expansion rate compared to the cast iron isn't worth mentioning.

As you can see in the pictures, he'd been using the stove before I bought it. The steel pan fits and works just like the original pan, except the only real difference is that now it's probably the strongest part of the stove.

Paul

Yes, the fabricated pan is great. My big stumbling block is that I need the top half that it mates with. A slightly more complex shape to recreate.