My Glenwood #6 Is on the Way!
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Just seal it with furnace cement like the rest of the stove is sealed, but first try a piece of 6 inch stove pipe on it for fit. You may need to alter it a bit.
- dlj
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I wouldn't weld that seam. Not a good geometry to make that elbow one piece in a cast iron. just take apart the two halves, sand blast and reassemble with furnace cement and the four bolts.Smokeyja wrote:So I received the elbow. It's in great condition but the seam needs to be sealed . I'm thinking of welding it with silica bronze after I sand blast it . How would you normally seal these ? It is marked L.C. 115 USA on both sides . This mean anything to anyone?
Just my 2 cents worth...
dj
- wsherrick
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Don't weld it. Leave it the way it is.
- Smokeyja
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I just really don't trust furnace cement that well. It's like every year it becomes brittle and breaks apart . Maybe your right though .dlj wrote:I wouldn't weld that seam. Not a good geometry to make that elbow one piece in a cast iron. just take apart the two halves, sand blast and reassemble with furnace cement and the four bolts.Smokeyja wrote:So I received the elbow. It's in great condition but the seam needs to be sealed . I'm thinking of welding it with silica bronze after I sand blast it . How would you normally seal these ? It is marked L.C. 115 USA on both sides . This mean anything to anyone?
Just my 2 cents worth...
dj
- wsherrick
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You have to get the right furnace cement. You have to get a good quality cement that has a fiber bonding agent in it. Such as Hercules or Hearthstone, both brands I have used and would recommend.
- Smokeyja
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Thanks for that tip William! I have been using rutlands . I am not a fan of their cement at all. I will order what you have suggested. Do prefer tube or can/bucket for your application?wsherrick wrote:You have to get the right furnace cement. You have to get a good quality cement that has a fiber bonding agent in it. Such as Hercules or Hearthstone, both brands I have used and would recommend.
- wsherrick
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Rutland cement, don't use it, if you have any at home throw it away. As far as the other goes I use the buckets because you need to stir it up well first. Also, the surfaces need to be perfectly clean before you put them together.Smokeyja wrote:Thanks for that tip William! I have been using rutlands . I am not a fan of their cement at all. I will order what you have suggested. Do prefer tube or can/bucket for your application?wsherrick wrote:You have to get the right furnace cement. You have to get a good quality cement that has a fiber bonding agent in it. Such as Hercules or Hearthstone, both brands I have used and would recommend.
- Smokeyja
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Same for the connection of pipe between the stove and elbow? Or should I try and use a small rope?wsherrick wrote:Rutland cement, don't use it, if you have any at home throw it away. As far as the other goes I use the buckets because you need to stir it up well first. Also, the surfaces need to be perfectly clean before you put them together.Smokeyja wrote: Thanks for that tip William! I have been using rutlands . I am not a fan of their cement at all. I will order what you have suggested. Do prefer tube or can/bucket for your application?
Here is a photo of the elbow .
- dlj
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Nortcan uses gaskets on everything... Be careful though if you decide to go that way, the flanges have to fit - OD on one end and ID on the other...
dj
dj
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I have an elbow just like that came with my Modern oak 116...it has several cracks all the way through so you can see daylight...is it possible to repair by brazing or welding?
- Smokeyja
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Yes . Nickle or silica bronze. If you would like me take a look at it send me some photos through my website under "contact me " and ill tell you whether or not its salvageable . I can fix it too if it is .PJT wrote:I have an elbow just like that came with my Modern oak 116...it has several cracks all the way through so you can see daylight...is it possible to repair by brazing or welding?
- Smokeyja
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Ok so I started restoring the elbow and I'm getting to the point that I can hook the 6 up .
Muriatic acid does wonders ! As you can see a few post above the rustI'm sure you know this but thought it worth mentioning. Be sure to cook it in hot water and baking soda to kill the acid, otherwise it will continue to rust away. The hot water expands the metal opening the pores so the soda can get inside where the acid is hiding.Smokeyja wrote:
Muriatic acid does wonders ! As you can see a few post above the rust
FYI for future use, for a better way to clean up small metal parts refer to Michael Faraday's theory of electrolysis. Here are some cast iron grates I restored using that method. My rectifier outputs 48 volts @ 27 amps so the process goes pretty quick. You can use something much smaller, it just takes a little longer. No need to deal with acid and the problems it brings.
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- dcrane
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Ya Umm... I need more info on your set up (photo's and htf I set it up and what components I need)... make a thread please or PM me the specifics as I need to do this soon!top top wrote:I'm sure you know this but thought it worth mentioning. Be sure to cook it in hot water and baking soda to kill the acid, otherwise it will continue to rust away. The hot water expands the metal opening the pores so the soda can get inside where the acid is hiding.Smokeyja wrote:
Muriatic acid does wonders ! As you can see a few post above the rust
FYI for future use, for a better way to clean up small metal parts refer to Michael Faraday's theory of electrolysis. Here are some cast iron grates I restored using that method. My rectifier outputs 48 volts @ 27 amps so the process goes pretty quick. You can use something much smaller, it just takes a little longer. No need to deal with acid and the problems it brings.