I went to look at a few stoves today. Does anybody know anything about the Lehigh Oak Stove?
Thanks Jeff
Lehigh Oak
- wsherrick
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I have heard of them but I can't picture the stove exactly in my mind. Can you give us a few details about it.
- dcrane
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Gratz! Its hard to give advise without seeing photo's of the unit (inside and out). It may be in great shape and only need some gasket or it may need extensive cast iron repairs and a complete disassemble (either way its great for us to see a classic survive)!
Jeff, could you tell the age of my Baltimore Heater just from it's name? It's a Sunnyside
No, well I think no, not many peoples can tell the age of a stove just from the name. Please send some photos and you will get better answers back
BTW, the answer is: 1874. See how a simple photo can helps
No, well I think no, not many peoples can tell the age of a stove just from the name. Please send some photos and you will get better answers back
BTW, the answer is: 1874. See how a simple photo can helps
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- LsFarm
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Hi Jeff, I'll make a stab at the age of your stove,, from 1900 through 1930. Any closer will have to come from seeing photos of the stove.jkabdoors wrote:I will have the Lehigh Oak next week. When I get the stove I will post pics, can everyone walk me thru what has to be done with getting it back to the way it should be. Thanks Jeff
Often on the back side of doors or other castings a date is cast onto the part.. so maybe you will find a date on yours?
As fo the help with rebuilding or restoring your stove, there are several threads on the forum about the rebuild process on an antique stove.
basicly, this type of stove is an assembly of parts, and virtually every seam or joint where the parts are assembled must be sealed with
furnace cement to provide an airtight seal to prevent excess air leaking in and any exhaust gasses leaking out..
So, unless the stove has recently been rebuilt, you need to take lots of photos to reinforce your memory durning the reassembly,
Take the stove apart VERY CAREFULLY. The nuts and bolts that hold the parts together are usually rusty and stubborn. Soak all
fasteners with penetrating oil for a few days before trying to dissassemble the stove.. any bolts that are rusted tight should be
cut off with a Dremel with a small cuttoff wheel.
BE VERY CAREFUL with the cast pieces they are very brittle, almost like egg shells, so leave your hammers and big tools in the
toolbox..
Rust tends to make the joints get swollen spots, which puts a lot of stress on the connecting ears, holes and bolts.. DO not pry on
the pieces, just soak in penetrating oil 'til the joints separate.
The doors must fit the stove body with no gaps or air leaks, as long as the cast parts haven't changed shape over the years, the doors
should be able to be made to fit well to the stove body, you can gently bend or adjust the hinge pins, but you CANNOT bend or twist the
cast door, it WILL break.. So if you have a twisted door we will make suggestions if that problem arises.
The finish on the cast parts is usually 'stove black' or 'stove polish', and the nickel pieces will in all likely need to be replated. If the
nickel is just tarnished or dull, use Lysol toilet bowl cleaner, 0000 steel wool and rubber gloves to clean the plating, it works great.
Other rust removing bowl cleaner will work as well, CLR remover works well too, it's the Muriatic acid in the cleaners that attacks the
rust and corrosion.. Use these produces with plenty of ventilation.
Once we see some photos of the stove we'll be able to make more suggestions.
Take care,, did I mention photos??
Greg L