My New Glenwood Oak 30 - Pics Attached - I Need Advice!

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SteveZee
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Modern Oak 116 & Glenwood 208 C Range
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Post Sat. Feb. 02, 2013 5:17 pm

glenwoodoak wrote:
LsFarm wrote:With your second fire going, and the chimney draft stron, take a candle or a long match, light it and rin it by the edge of your door, the flam should be scuked into the air gap by the draft inside the stove..

Yes, tha area in red, any gap UNDER the firepot. so that spot whare the firepot mates to the base, is there a 'floor' to the ashpan box or base?? is it sealed well so that air cannot get to the fire uncontroled??

take some aluminum foil, folt a couple of layers to make a ribbon about the width of a pencil, open the ashpan door, and put the flattened strip of foil along the top of the door/seal area.. close the door, see if this make-shift gasket slows the fire..

Greg L.

I'd use the candle or incense stick to check all the joints and sealed areas for leaks.

Greg
Hi Greg,

I used a candle. I didn't really get any movement on the lower part of the stove. The placed where the flame danced was where my damper pipe connected to the stove and 6 inches up where my damper connects to the stove pipe. They are on really tight, but I guess there's leakage? I guess I can seal it, but it's going to have to be anually as I'll need to take the pipe off to clean it.

I got a little movement between the two loading doors, but I assume this is normal.

Do you think it's probable the stove pipe is the primary problem? I'm going to seal every seam I can see.
Where are you measureing the 600°? Is that on the top of the barrel under the top ring? That's where my thermo is.

I can tell you Marty, it's not the stove pipe nor the loading doors. If you have no control of the fire it's a leak below the grates somewhere. Above the fire is not a big deal and actually will slow it down. There has to be some significant leak below the grates to get 600 on the top of the barrel with everything closed?


glenwoodoak
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Post Sat. Feb. 02, 2013 6:23 pm

SteveZee wrote:
glenwoodoak wrote: Hi Greg,

I used a candle. I didn't really get any movement on the lower part of the stove. The placed where the flame danced was where my damper pipe connected to the stove and 6 inches up where my damper connects to the stove pipe. They are on really tight, but I guess there's leakage? I guess I can seal it, but it's going to have to be anually as I'll need to take the pipe off to clean it.

I got a little movement between the two loading doors, but I assume this is normal.

Do you think it's probable the stove pipe is the primary problem? I'm going to seal every seam I can see.
Where are you measureing the 600°? Is that on the top of the barrel under the top ring? That's where my thermo is.

I can tell you Marty, it's not the stove pipe nor the loading doors. If you have no control of the fire it's a leak below the grates somewhere. Above the fire is not a big deal and actually will slow it down. There has to be some significant leak below the grates to get 600 on the top of the barrel with everything closed?
Hi Steve,

I'm measuring about 1-2 inches below the top ring. A little over 5 hours ago I filled it about 1-2 inches from the top of the pot. The coal level has probably dropped 4 inches. It's been 650 for the past hour. It's pretty much heated all 2500 sq ft of my house now and it's 81 degrees at the coffee table 10 ft from the stove... Rest of the downstairs is 68-72. Normally, I feel cold air when I walk up the stairs as I don't heat the upstairs, now it's the opposite, ha. It's about 20 outside. Ugh, too hot in here. The cat is in her normal spot in front of the stove, I think she may be in a heat coma...

Yea, it's really weird, I can't get the candle flame to move over the lower part of the stove. I'll clean it out tomorrow and see if I can find some seams to caulk with silicone stove cement. As you said there has to be something down there as I saw similar temperatures with bio bricks until I put a solid plate above the grates or let it build up with ash.

Did you see the pictures I circled in my earlier post today? Do you think I should caulk all those seams? If there's any others you can think of from your stove please let me know. Hopefully I figure it out soon. Thanks everyone for all your help to date.

Thanks again.

franco b
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Post Sat. Feb. 02, 2013 10:38 pm

Just worry about the ash door and where the fire pot meets the base. As Greg suggested you can try a temporary gasket of aluminum foil along the top of the door to see if that gives you better control. you can try that with the stove running.

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SteveZee
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Post Sun. Feb. 03, 2013 8:26 am

franco b wrote:Just worry about the ash door and where the fire pot meets the base. As Greg suggested you can try a temporary gasket of aluminum foil along the top of the door to see if that gives you better control. you can try that with the stove running.
Yes exactly, it's deffinately a leak below the grates somehwhere. Must have a heck of a draft too because I can run mine full throttle and get 600° but it has to be wide open. Maybe that's part of the prob? Just seems strange to me that it would run that hot with the primaries closed? While I don't suggest a baro with these stoves, in this case, it might be helpful. It has to be where the pot meets base? Nothing else makes sense because the door is fine and the primaries are good.

PS: Richard, I didn't know you were running an MO 114! Good on ya! ;)

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kstone
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Post Sun. Feb. 03, 2013 8:44 am

[/quote]PS: Richard, I didn't know you were running an MO 114! Good on ya! ;)[/quote]

Does he now go bye the name off glenwood B and I know he is running a new stove the way some people do a crossword puzzle just for the challenge and keeping the brain sharp thank you both for your help its 25 F and house is at 70

glenwoodoak
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Post Sun. Feb. 03, 2013 9:00 am

I'm planning on sealing some seams or whatever I can find today. I probably won't be able to have another coal fire until Tuesday.

I did get 8 hours of burn time above 600 degrees yesterday starting with a nearly full pot. I'm hoping I can find the issue and hopefully 8 hours at 600+ will translate to 12 at 450 or similar.

My furnace has a baro damper and sometimes I can it clanking when it's real windy. I'm at the top of a hill in the middle of a 2.5 acre clearing in a generally wooded area so it's not uncommon to see some swirling wind in the yard.

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SteveZee
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Post Sun. Feb. 03, 2013 9:10 am

Marty,

Gosh you could set up a Tiki bar with hula dancers with those temps! Seriously, it must be where the pot meets the base? Nothing else makes sense since your door/primaries are ok. The only othe thing might be to try and measure the draft with manometer and see if it's reallt excessive. In that case a baro would be the ticket. Have you got room for one on the pipe after the MPD?

glenwoodoak
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Post Sun. Feb. 03, 2013 11:16 am

SteveZee wrote:Marty,

Gosh you could set up a Tiki bar with hula dancers with those temps! Seriously, it must be where the pot meets the base? Nothing else makes sense since your door/primaries are ok. The only othe thing might be to try and measure the draft with manometer and see if it's reallt excessive. In that case a baro would be the ticket. Have you got room for one on the pipe after the MPD?
Ha, it was pretty tropical in here yesterday! I just caulked a pretty big seam where the bottom of the firepot meets the base (the picture I circled in red earlier. Behind the top of the cleanout door and running the length of the cleanout door is where is was the widest). It was a big crack, but I couldn't see light through it. It took a lot of cement though. I continued that seam all around the bottom of the pot.

I'm also doing a bead around the inside of the cleanout door just in case, but in general it seems tight.

The other I noticed was the little door that covers the shakers has about a 1/4 in gap when it's closed so I'll try to caulk around the inside.

I think I could fit a baro (I have telescoping double wall now so worse case I would have to change out the pipe). I'm hoping I can fix the problem by sealing cracks though.


franco b
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Post Sun. Feb. 03, 2013 1:24 pm

glenwoodoak wrote:The other I noticed was the little door that covers the shakers has about a 1/4 in gap when it's closed so I'll try to caulk around the inside.
How can that be? Try to find the reason. Maybe one of the grate ends is pressing against it and not allowing it to fall. That could cause the lack of control all by itself.

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Tim
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Post Sun. Feb. 03, 2013 1:49 pm

Marty,
what is in your shaker cover door for hinges?....little machine bolts and nuts or roll pins ?...when I purchased mine there was machine bolts and nuts in it and it didn't close well either I installed cold roll pins in the cover door and did some massagin of the holes in the main casting with a rat tail file to get it just loose enougn to lay flat when closed and still hold open when flipped up, I had to tap the pins out several times while doing this BE GENTLE!.
can you snap a pic. of it?
Tim

glenwoodoak
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Post Mon. Feb. 04, 2013 7:24 am

Tim wrote:Marty,
what is in your shaker cover door for hinges?....little machine bolts and nuts or roll pins ?...when I purchased mine there was machine bolts and nuts in it and it didn't close well either I installed cold roll pins in the cover door and did some massagin of the holes in the main casting with a rat tail file to get it just loose enougn to lay flat when closed and still hold open when flipped up, I had to tap the pins out several times while doing this BE GENTLE!.
can you snap a pic. of it?
Tim
Hi Tim,

Here's a couple pics. I'll try to play with the pin tonight that's got a bend to it.

Thanks,
Marty
Attachments
DSC_0316.JPG
DSC_0317.JPG

glenwoodoak
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Post Mon. Feb. 04, 2013 6:50 pm

Well I'm making progress, at least I think I am. I started a bio brick fire and the temperature topped out at 450 fully dampered as opposed to 750 last time. I'll keep burning throughout the evening to test the temperature and harden up the cement. I had sealed underneath the stove last night - there's a seam where the ash bin meets the rest of the stove base. I just took a candle underneath to check for leaks. I definitely see some places that are sucking air so I'll get under there tomorrow and re-patch. It seems the worst spots are the rear corners and the length of the rear. It would be a lot easier if the stove wasn't hooked up. I'm basically lying on my stomach, dipping my finger in stove cement, reaching up underneath the base and using a mirror as guidance... :) The door is looking better, I can't pull a dollar out of any spot now without ripping it. I'm going to seal around the shaker door and try to adjust the hinge pin as well.

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SteveZee
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Post Mon. Feb. 04, 2013 7:39 pm

Sounds like you are getting after it Marty! Way to go! :)

glenwoodoak
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Post Mon. Feb. 04, 2013 8:01 pm

SteveZee wrote:Sounds like you are getting after it Marty! Way to go! :)
Thanks Steve, hopefully... Did you ever have to seal the bottom of your stove?

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SteveZee
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Post Tue. Feb. 05, 2013 8:32 am

I did when I reassembled it Marty. Might show in the pix I posted during the refurb. Obviously allot easier to do in the proper order but I think your onto it and should be good to go. the fact that you could burn the biobricks with some control is promising because they burn quite hot and are hard to control. Coal is much less "volatile" and reacts much slower than those Bio's.


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