Picked up a 1928 Oakland #6 Baseheater! Heres My Plan

 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Sun. Jan. 13, 2019 11:22 am

Plenty of write ups here comparing antique stoves to modern stoves. No comparison at all, an antique stove (especially a base burner/heater) will out perform any modern stove with ease!
Last edited by tcalo on Sun. Jan. 13, 2019 11:36 am, edited 1 time in total.


 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sun. Jan. 13, 2019 11:29 am

Coal consumption and BTU ratings are important, but what really matters is how well a stove can extract the BTU's and radiate them into a room.

One of the easiest ways to judge that is average stove temps compared to how hot the stove pipe is running. Obviously, heat up the chimney is not going to heat the room as much as if it was the stove that radiated that heat.

The stoves with long internal flue pathways, such as base heaters, base burners, and kitchen ranges, can extract much more heat before it gets to the stove pipe, than many modern box stoves. Even those with a baffle in the top of the firebox. As Tcalo said, this is a subject that's been well covered in threads in this section a few years ago.

Example, from the firebox to stove pipe collar, my small 1903 kitchen range has about ten feet of flue length and roughly twice the heat radiating surface area of modern box stoves. My 1909 Base heater is about 8 feet of flue length and almost as much surface area as the small range. Some of these old stoves do such a good job of heat extraction that you can put your hand on the stove pipe a few feet from the stove.

There are no BTU ratings on antique stoves. You can get a very rough idea by how much coal is the average daily consumption, but it's just what the stove is burning. That doesn't tell you how efficiently a stove is transferring heat into the room.

One of the better ways to compare is if you make a ratio of the average of the stove's hottest area running temps to the stove pipe surface temps about 2-3 feet from the stove. Many of the antique base heater stoves can run easily at 4 to 1. The kitchen ranges - with their greater surface area - can do 5 to 1, and with the right setup even 6 to 1 is doable.

So when your comparing stoves, try to find out the stove to pipe temps from someone who has an infrared heat reading gun. Don't trust the magnetic stove thermometers because they can vary by as much as 75 or more degrees. Everyone of those that I've ever bought, I've had to recalibrate to be accurate where I placed it because, even then, it will only be accurate within a fairly small temp range. Move it to another area with different average temps and it's readings can be off quite a bit.

Paul
Last edited by Sunny Boy on Sun. Jan. 13, 2019 1:19 pm, edited 3 times in total.

 
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Post by McGiever » Sun. Jan. 13, 2019 11:55 am

Jasmf24 wrote:
Sun. Jan. 13, 2019 10:56 am
I’m curious, how do these older stoves compair to modern stoves when it comes to consumption, BTU, efficiency?
If the ash pan is light and the stack never got so hot you couldn't lay your hand on it anytime, you got a winner!

Biggest advantage to any modern day stove is the cost and ease to manufacture them, hence the welded big square box.

Old craftsmen built cast stoves mostly round and had one mission beyond looks, to squeeze every BTU out of the fuel and let no more than necessary go up the chimney...today's majority stove consumers do not or can not drive that kind of performance of any manufacturer.
Last edited by McGiever on Sun. Jan. 13, 2019 12:13 pm, edited 3 times in total.

 
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Post by D.lapan » Sun. Jan. 13, 2019 12:06 pm

I also wondered about consumption, I read and read and looked for almost a decade before I found one the weekend before Christmas, mine is a glenwood #8 which has a larger deeper fire pot which is lined, my house is at best insulated with R13 built in the 1840s and has a had a few renovations, I have been using a mix of tractor supply and blascak nut. I lit it the day before Xmas and and has been running since, we had some temps in the 50s a few days which I could easily idle it down to around 180 on the barrel which left my house at around 72 and consumed around 20# a day, now that we are below 0 at night I’m running the barrel around 375-450 and using just about 1 40# bag a day.
I tend the stove when I get up 430-5am and again anywhere from 5-8pm when I get home from work, I made a make shift mag out of some tin until I have get my hands on a real one with sunnyboy’s dementions and tending takes less than 5 minuets, it takes me longer to walk to the ash pile and dump the pan than it dose to fill and shake it down.
I have had a range and a 1901 glenwood hickory with draw center grates that would sometimes go out from not filling de ashing the grates the prismatic grates are incredibly easy to use and do a awesome job of clearing the ash in a shot amount of time, my draft is set around -.02 with a pair of mpd’s I have no doubt that these style stoves can easily go all winter on 1 start up
Dana

 
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Post by KingCoal » Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 7:04 pm

Hi Dana,

i was on the war path for an 8 or a mica Favorite or such for several yrs too, had totally given up because there just aren't any out here.

during that time i converted 2 stoves. you might remember T.O.M the can and a half, base heater, double heater. i used stove pipe constructed mags in that stove, i needed to replace the original half way thru the season but they were so cheap and easy i didn't mind.

great work on doing it in the 8 got any pics ?

thanks,
steve

 
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Post by D.lapan » Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 7:41 pm

Forgive me if I’m wrong Steve, was Tom the home made base heater?
Here is my Christmas present to myself this year
Dana

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Post by KingCoal » Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 9:23 pm

TOM was the one using the WM #120 cast parts and had 3 windows like a diving bell :baby: :lol:

what are you doing to hold it in the ring saddle at the top ?

steve


 
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Post by D.lapan » Tue. Jan. 15, 2019 5:26 am

KingCoal wrote:
Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 9:23 pm
TOM was the one using the WM #120 cast parts and had 3 windows like a diving bell :baby: :lol:

what are you doing to hold it in the ring saddle at the top ?

steve
I just pie cut the top and flared it out I also added 3 5/8 holes near the top for gas to escape, nothing special, I was more just playing around to see if and how it would work, now that I see it dose when this one burns out I’ll make a better one
Dana

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Post by KingCoal » Thu. Jan. 17, 2019 11:02 am

excellent, that's what I found too. the mag doesn't need to support any weight at all it just contains the column of coal sitting on top of the fire bed.

this should encourage every one that wishes they had a mag but haven't been able to get in the line for one.

 
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Post by Userj8670 » Fri. Jan. 18, 2019 1:13 pm

That #8 is a monster. I have been reading up on mags lately and I see that they help with recovery time significantly. I was with the impression they would increase burn times but ultimately the stove needs shaken

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Fri. Jan. 18, 2019 1:27 pm

Userj8670 wrote:
Fri. Jan. 18, 2019 1:13 pm
That #8 is a monster. I have been reading up on mags lately and I see that they help with recovery time significantly. I was with the impression they would increase burn times but ultimately the stove needs shaken
Yes, with the mag they ash up and temps drop off before they need refueling. The #6 mag adds 50% more coal capacity within the stove, but it can't reduce the need to clear ash buildup. :cry:

As long as you don't let it burn down too far, the reduction in refueling time the mag gives is well worth it.

Open the back damper and MPD, open the top and pour about 25lbs of nut to refill the mag to the top. Close the top. Then reset the dampers and your done. I've got that down to about 2-3 minutes now. If I have to shake ashes, too. That's at most a five minute job to do all the tending.

If I forget and let the firebed burn down too far, well then, obviously it'll take much longer to bring it back. So, I try to stick to tending the GW#6 every 12 hours for how hot I'm running it to heat a large area. If you don't need to run it hot then that extends the tending interval proportionately.

If I could idle it down then very likely only once a day tending would be needed. But I'm heating a large area of a large old Victorian and using about 70 pounds of nut a day in the colder weather.

Paul

 
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Post by Userj8670 » Fri. Jan. 18, 2019 1:47 pm

If I was running a Glenwood 6 hot in the middle of winter using a mag (just for the sake of example) could I go 16hrs between shake downs and still be ok or is 12 pushing it?

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Fri. Jan. 18, 2019 2:38 pm

Userj8670 wrote:
Fri. Jan. 18, 2019 1:47 pm
If I was running a Glenwood 6 hot in the middle of winter using a mag (just for the sake of example) could I go 16hrs between shake downs and still be ok or is 12 pushing it?
Who's version of "hot" are we talking about ? :D

I run mine at about 500F at the top of the barrel and around 600F on the barrel about just above where the gas ring is inside. That's measured with an IR gun, not one of the magnetic thermometer dials that can easily be off by 50F to 75F either way up in those temp ranges. At that rate, after 12 hours the heat output really starts to drop off because of ash buildup and reduction of the amount of burning coal. Then the house furnace kicks on to make up for the drop in the #6's BTU output.

Paul

 
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Post by D.lapan » Fri. Jan. 18, 2019 5:41 pm

Not sure if I can use the no8 for your question but last weekend for example we were gone for all of sat, it was -8 in the morning with a high of 14. My house is a 1840s cape that has r13 pretty much everywhere I have been into the walls and roof and we came back 17 hours later and it was still running 425 at the top of the barrel and looked good and the house was still 73*, might have taken me 10 min to shake and refill rather than the normal 4-5. Now that being said it’s 2” bigger all the way around so the fire pot is a little wider and deeper and I’m not having to run it as hot as Paul’s.
When I bought it I told my wife it was to flip, that’s not happening.
It burns too good too long I can’t replace it with anything other than maybe the next size down which would be the 6
Dana

 
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Post by stovehospital » Mon. Sep. 02, 2019 5:57 pm

The Oakland is the same size as the Glenwood but was mad by O. G. Thomas. These are great stoves and you will be very happy with it.


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