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echos67
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by echos67 » Tue. Dec. 04, 2012 8:11 pm
nortcan wrote:Very good job Keith, you seem to love perfection for what you do and it's perfect
Take the time needed and you will be satisfied when relaxing in front of the stove's set up.
Just don't forget to keep the curtains far from the hot Glenwood, these stoves can eat all they can
Thanks Pierre, yourself and several others around here have raised the bar pretty high my friend. I hope it turns out decent and above all else is safe.
Maybe I can use the curtains to start the coal fire until I relearn this stove I will probably be going through alot of matches
.
Last edited by
echos67 on Tue. Dec. 04, 2012 8:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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echos67
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by echos67 » Tue. Dec. 04, 2012 8:25 pm
I finished the heat barrier on the wall and sealed all the seams tonight.
So I had a thought for spacers to use for the hardiboard and I need citiques here, let me know what you guys think. I grabbed a few cheap steel studs and notched them opposite each other and I am thinking it will allow the needed air circulation no problem and still give alot of support for attaching my hardiboard too so then I can attach the tile to the hardiboard.
Dont mind the lack of the 1" gap at the top, I just have the steel stud there temporarily for the pictures and will adjust before finally securing it to the wall.
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Smokeyja
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- Other Heating: none
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by Smokeyja » Tue. Dec. 04, 2012 9:47 pm
echos67 wrote:nortcan wrote:Very good job Keith, you seem to love perfection for what you do and it's perfect
Take the time needed and you will be satisfied when relaxing in front of the stove's set up.
Just don't forget to keep the curtains far from the hot Glenwood, these stoves can eat all they can
Thanks Pierre, yourself and several others around here have raised the bar pretty high my friend. I hope it turns out decent and above all else is safe.
Maybe I can use the curtains to start the coal fire until I relearn this stove I will probably be going through alot of matches
.
Buy a cheap propane torch . I got tired of matches. The torch and a lighter starts the fire every time
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nortcan
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by nortcan » Wed. Dec. 05, 2012 1:31 pm
Smokeyja wrote:echos67 wrote:
Thanks Pierre, yourself and several others around here have raised the bar pretty high my friend. I hope it turns out decent and above all else is safe.
Maybe I can use the curtains to start the coal fire until I relearn this stove I will probably be going through alot of matches
.
Buy a cheap propane torch . I got tired of matches. The torch and a lighter starts the fire every time
I think that the torches are not allowed for the one match club, sorry
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nortcan
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by nortcan » Wed. Dec. 05, 2012 1:35 pm
Keith, things are coming along very well fot the heat shields. Yes stell studs and steel foreces make very good job. Keep on sending photos. Always pleasant to see and may help other members
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echos67
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by echos67 » Wed. Dec. 05, 2012 8:07 pm
nortcan wrote:Keith, things are coming along very well fot the heat shields. Yes stell studs and steel foreces make very good job. Keep on sending photos. Always pleasant to see and may help other members
Hopefully it helps me Pierre I never built a hearth before
.
Here are a couple more, I was able to get the first layer of Hardibacker on this evening, I decided I may as well tape the seams also
. I think I may put another layer of the Hardi down before starting the tile, these stoves have alot of heat at the base so I may as well prepare for it now.
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echos67
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by echos67 » Wed. Dec. 05, 2012 9:14 pm
Does everyone think a single layer of 1/2" Hardibacker will be enough or should I go with a second layer ?
The ceramic tile will be installed on the Hardibacker and I really don't want to add the second layer of the Hardi if it really isn't needed.
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franco b
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by franco b » Wed. Dec. 05, 2012 9:28 pm
There really isn't much insulative value to a second layer. If in use the floor gets too hot you can always add a sheet metal heat shield between the stove legs.
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Smokeyja
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by Smokeyja » Wed. Dec. 05, 2012 10:33 pm
The 1/2" layer is very sufficient . Remember for many years people ran stoves on wood floors. If I ran this WM on jut a wood floor it would be fine . And a lot of people just put wood stoves on top of 1/2" stove boards . What you're making is more than what you need to be safe
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The bases of the stoves ive come across are usually always cool to the touch.
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wsherrick
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by wsherrick » Wed. Dec. 05, 2012 10:57 pm
It should be fine the way it is. To those of you talking about the bottom of the stove remaining cool, that does not apply to a Base Heater or Base Burner. The bottom of the stove is a radiating surface and it gets quite hot. That's why they are called Base Burners.
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Smokeyja
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by Smokeyja » Thu. Dec. 06, 2012 4:37 am
wsherrick wrote:It should be fine the way it is. To those of you talking about the bottom of the stove remaining cool, that does not apply to a Base Heater or Base Burner. The bottom of the stove is a radiating surface and it gets quite hot. That's why they are called Base Burners.
So the actual underneath, where the ash would be is what heats up? I knew they circulated flue gases back down and then up but between the air space from the legs raising it up that the actuall underside became that hot.
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wsherrick
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by wsherrick » Thu. Dec. 06, 2012 5:47 am
Smokeyja wrote:wsherrick wrote:It should be fine the way it is. To those of you talking about the bottom of the stove remaining cool, that does not apply to a Base Heater or Base Burner. The bottom of the stove is a radiating surface and it gets quite hot. That's why they are called Base Burners.
So the actual underneath, where the ash would be is what heats up? I knew they circulated flue gases back down and then up but between the air space from the legs raising it up that the actuall underside became that hot.
It depends on how hot the stove is being operated at. These stoves can be safely and regularly operated up to 700 degrees as a normal thing. I rarely run mine over 500, but; when it is running that hot the base heating chamber gets several hundred degrees hot. I don't think it is a danger to a normally designed hearth, but; it is something to keep in mind.
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echos67
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by echos67 » Thu. Dec. 06, 2012 7:03 am
Thanks Everyone,
After getting the first layer of Hardi down I got to looking at it and began thinking a 2nd layer really wasnt needed.
Smokeyja wrote:wsherrick wrote:It should be fine the way it is. To those of you talking about the bottom of the stove remaining cool, that does not apply to a Base Heater or Base Burner. The bottom of the stove is a radiating surface and it gets quite hot. That's why they are called Base Burners.
So the actual underneath, where the ash would be is what heats up? I knew they circulated flue gases back down and then up but between the air space from the legs raising it up that the actuall underside became that hot.
Josh,
The baseheater area is actually another compartment under where the ash pan goes in the No 6, in the picture you may be able to see it through the access plate that is removed.
Not a very good picture since it is upside down but this is the lower most pan for the base part of the heater. These are the weak links of the No 6 in my opinion since they are cast on the thin side.
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SteveZee
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by SteveZee » Thu. Dec. 06, 2012 9:18 am
Excellent Pix Keith to show that base chamber. The hearth looks to be coming along well too.
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echos67
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by echos67 » Thu. Dec. 06, 2012 5:59 pm
SteveZee wrote:Excellent Pix Keith to show that base chamber. The hearth looks to be coming along well too.
The Hearth is coming slowly, a labor of love for sure because the fun part has left and the project is now getting somewhat boring
, I may need to walk away from it for a few days but the wife will be working this weekend and I hope to get alot done.
I was able to set the first 7 pieces of tile tonight, that is where they will stay until someone persuades them with a hammer. Looks like I will be busy doing alot of tile cutting this weekend. My goal is to have the hearth part finished completely including grout and to get the Hardi board on the walls by Sunday evening, wish me luck
!