Your stove looks great !
Sorry to hear about the plating issues with Nu-Chrome and glad to hear they will fix it. Just a shame it wasn't done right the first time so you didn't have to go through the hassle and costs of shipping it again, seems it should have been caught before it was boxed up and sent out to you.
Chrystal Crawford 112 Restoration
- g13nw00d-man
- Member
- Posts: 112
- Joined: Wed. Sep. 28, 2011 8:54 am
echo, it will not cost me anything to ship the parts back, they will cover the cost. It also was not a mistake that the parts came to me this way. It seems they were trying to cut corners.
- SteveZee
- Member
- Posts: 2512
- Joined: Wed. May. 11, 2011 10:45 am
- Location: Downeast , Maine
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Modern Oak 116 & Glenwood 208 C Range
Jason, The stove looks super! Very nicely done and I think you'll find that they are quite the little heating machines for the size of them. They can hold more coal than one would think too. Deep bed.
Interesting shaking method. I too would have thought that you'd dump allot of coal or that it was bridging if able to pull the fork and not spill. Maybe that's how it was meant to work? As I mentioned to you, I added about 3" to the shaker handle when I recast it due to it being hardly visable (holes) to grab onto. Maybe it was supposed to come out a bit so the holes were exposed better to use the handle. I would have to shake the thing allot to get the powder ash out so maybe you are onto something. They do burn it to nothing that's for sure but I did use a poker on mine to shove the middle down. You can always tell when it shakes too easily or as you mentioned the, the bed's not moving. We'll see as you ramp up some in colder weather.
That little door is called a klinker door. I could not open mine without creating a large mess though as ash would build up against it and spill out if opened.
I think you'll find that they (This style stove) like to run a bit hotter than the Glenwood as far as sweet spot goes just due to them not being air tight by design. Mine had check dampers in the back of the ash pit. Those and the load door vents open was the way to throttle it down some along with letting ash build a bit too. I think that people who bought these sized them allot more to the space and that explains why they came in so many sizes.
Glad to hear they will make it right for you this spring with the plating.
Interesting shaking method. I too would have thought that you'd dump allot of coal or that it was bridging if able to pull the fork and not spill. Maybe that's how it was meant to work? As I mentioned to you, I added about 3" to the shaker handle when I recast it due to it being hardly visable (holes) to grab onto. Maybe it was supposed to come out a bit so the holes were exposed better to use the handle. I would have to shake the thing allot to get the powder ash out so maybe you are onto something. They do burn it to nothing that's for sure but I did use a poker on mine to shove the middle down. You can always tell when it shakes too easily or as you mentioned the, the bed's not moving. We'll see as you ramp up some in colder weather.
That little door is called a klinker door. I could not open mine without creating a large mess though as ash would build up against it and spill out if opened.
I think you'll find that they (This style stove) like to run a bit hotter than the Glenwood as far as sweet spot goes just due to them not being air tight by design. Mine had check dampers in the back of the ash pit. Those and the load door vents open was the way to throttle it down some along with letting ash build a bit too. I think that people who bought these sized them allot more to the space and that explains why they came in so many sizes.
Glad to hear they will make it right for you this spring with the plating.
- kstone
- Member
- Posts: 95
- Joined: Wed. Dec. 21, 2011 10:04 am
- Location: plymouth mass
- Baseburners & Antiques: Andes 14 crown
- Coal Size/Type: nut
Jason love the stove nice job on it nickel plating. The top cover for the bell looks great make me want a quote on doing mine
The Plymouth is a sister design to yours
The shaking off the Plymouth I tend to use the clinker door with long poker and sweep and poke the top off the grate with it sometimes it bridges sometimes it not but its always powder then I add some coal to the top and then lightly shake the grate. oh when poking the clinker door it the only door open so all dust goes in also when I shake I have no intakes open (ash door grates or clinker door) I do a consistent 12 hour runs no problem could easily do 18 plus I am set up with a baro with .04 stack reading this give me a .01 above bed I adjust the mpd for this bed and stack readings. I tend to run with temperatures just bellow the bell off 650 and in pipe temp off 225 these are thermocouple probes in chamber and in the pipe not surface. The surface temp when I take em are 120 to 140,s pipe and 350 to 400 barrel my primary air grate slides are almost always closed to 1/4 open on left hand grate square ( there is an off set cut to the air grate slide the far left opens first and the fare right closes first there are detentes cast on the door showing 1/4 marks per square. So if left square 1/2 open then the next square may be only 1/4 open then the rest are closed )
I would love a loading door like your's, mine a sliding door with no means to adjust over the bed air setting . there also seems to be a surprising amount air leakage above the bed on the bell and in the door slide area but stove running excellent
I keep going back and looking at your picture's off your stove it look awesome
The Plymouth is a sister design to yours
The shaking off the Plymouth I tend to use the clinker door with long poker and sweep and poke the top off the grate with it sometimes it bridges sometimes it not but its always powder then I add some coal to the top and then lightly shake the grate. oh when poking the clinker door it the only door open so all dust goes in also when I shake I have no intakes open (ash door grates or clinker door) I do a consistent 12 hour runs no problem could easily do 18 plus I am set up with a baro with .04 stack reading this give me a .01 above bed I adjust the mpd for this bed and stack readings. I tend to run with temperatures just bellow the bell off 650 and in pipe temp off 225 these are thermocouple probes in chamber and in the pipe not surface. The surface temp when I take em are 120 to 140,s pipe and 350 to 400 barrel my primary air grate slides are almost always closed to 1/4 open on left hand grate square ( there is an off set cut to the air grate slide the far left opens first and the fare right closes first there are detentes cast on the door showing 1/4 marks per square. So if left square 1/2 open then the next square may be only 1/4 open then the rest are closed )
I would love a loading door like your's, mine a sliding door with no means to adjust over the bed air setting . there also seems to be a surprising amount air leakage above the bed on the bell and in the door slide area but stove running excellent
I keep going back and looking at your picture's off your stove it look awesome
- g13nw00d-man
- Member
- Posts: 112
- Joined: Wed. Sep. 28, 2011 8:54 am
Good "end of summer" to you all who have followed this thread. Well I just sent off all my nickel parts to be corrected by Nu-Chrome. They said it should only be a week turn around. Time to start thinking about my coal order this year...
-
- New Member
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Mon. Aug. 28, 2017 9:01 pm
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood No. 30
Years ago I used a refractory Clay that I pounded out with a rubber mallet. Can anybody recommend a brand or where to buy?