Restoring Old Stove, Herald Oak Model # 12
Recently acquired a Herald Oak model # 12 made by o.g. Thomas co. of Taunton Mass. dated 1904 in several places. I am in the process of taking apart,to clean up and weld/repair cracked cast iron ring at base, and have a few questions. 1--- is the firebox removeable or replaceable ? I don't want to destroy it,it 's intact, but prevents access to several bolts. 2---after cleaning the cast iron base, I rubbed it with stove black and it looks pretty good. Is this an acceptable finish, or should I paint it with high temp paint. 3=== any literature available on this or similar stoves? I 'm not having much luck with google searchs 4---this stove has a rear pipe with from ash pit on base with a cap on top and a damper in the middle , is this a base burner?
Last edited by AlanWelch on Sat. Apr. 01, 2017 4:45 am, edited 3 times in total.
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- Richard S.
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- Location: NEPA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Van Wert VA1200
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You're familiar with welding cast? If not I'd suggest taking it to someone that specializes in welding cast. It's not something easy to do right. If you have the original part you can always get a replacement made at most foundries.AlanWelch wrote:and weld/repair cracked cast iron ring at base,
As for you other questions pictures usually help.
- wsherrick
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Herald Oaks are among the top quality Oak Stoves from the Turn Of The Century. They were modeled after the Glenwood Modern Oak. (We have had several people come up with some really good stoves lately)
No your stove is not a Base Burner. It has an indirect back pipe which functions by directing the exhaust down one side and then up the other. The back pipe is an option that some good quality Oak stoves had. It increases the efficiency of the stove by a large degree and it means that your stove is meant to burn Anthracite Coal versus, wood. You can still burn wood in it if you want to if you run the stove in direct draft. Oak stoves have the advantage of the ability to burn wood or coal. Wood wasn't meant to be a primary fuel for these stoves. They are designed principally as coal stoves.
We can advise you a lot better if we can see some good pictures of the inside and out. It makes it much easier to see the overall condition of the stove.
Are you planning on using the stove? I certainly hope so.
I feel that stove polish works better on stove that is used. It is easy to touch up and polish. Paint fades quickly and peels quite often.
Please let us see your stove and we will be happy to help you with it.
The fire pot is designed to be replaced. It was considered a wear part. If yours is cracked I would suggest having a new one cast by using the original one to copy from. The fire pot should be lined on the inside with refractory material to protect it from direct heat. Doing this will allow the fire pot to last longer than you will.
There is gobs and gobs of information here about Oak Stoves, indirect back pipes, Base Heaters, Base Burners and so on.
Use the search feature here and read away.
No your stove is not a Base Burner. It has an indirect back pipe which functions by directing the exhaust down one side and then up the other. The back pipe is an option that some good quality Oak stoves had. It increases the efficiency of the stove by a large degree and it means that your stove is meant to burn Anthracite Coal versus, wood. You can still burn wood in it if you want to if you run the stove in direct draft. Oak stoves have the advantage of the ability to burn wood or coal. Wood wasn't meant to be a primary fuel for these stoves. They are designed principally as coal stoves.
We can advise you a lot better if we can see some good pictures of the inside and out. It makes it much easier to see the overall condition of the stove.
Are you planning on using the stove? I certainly hope so.
I feel that stove polish works better on stove that is used. It is easy to touch up and polish. Paint fades quickly and peels quite often.
Please let us see your stove and we will be happy to help you with it.
The fire pot is designed to be replaced. It was considered a wear part. If yours is cracked I would suggest having a new one cast by using the original one to copy from. The fire pot should be lined on the inside with refractory material to protect it from direct heat. Doing this will allow the fire pot to last longer than you will.
There is gobs and gobs of information here about Oak Stoves, indirect back pipes, Base Heaters, Base Burners and so on.
Use the search feature here and read away.
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Herald grates rae hard to find. get yours recast if you plan to use the stove. I think I have a herald 12 or two in the back barn and may be able to help with parts. Emery
- freetown fred
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Welcome to the FORUM AW--- Post some pix of that project. We love pix my friend.
- LsFarm
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Very nice looking stove. If you are going to use the stove, I'd use stove polish not paint.. The paint tends to peel off.
Do you want a 'secret' for cleaning the Nickel plated parts??? Use 0000 steel wool, and toilet bowl cleaner.. Lysol, or 'The Works'.. both
do the job. Wear rubber/latex gloves and just rub the cleaner on the plates surfaces and keep gently rubbing with the super-fine steel wool.
The corrosion and rust will come right off.. I'd do it outdoors.. the smell can be pretty strong indoors.. all your pieces that are plated will
either just lift off or can be unbolted.
Rinse the pieces well to remove residual cleaner, then polish with the polish of your choice: Wendol, SemiChrome, NeverDull.. they're all
about the same..
Repost some 'after' photos.. when you have 'er all spiffed and polished.
Greg L.
Do you want a 'secret' for cleaning the Nickel plated parts??? Use 0000 steel wool, and toilet bowl cleaner.. Lysol, or 'The Works'.. both
do the job. Wear rubber/latex gloves and just rub the cleaner on the plates surfaces and keep gently rubbing with the super-fine steel wool.
The corrosion and rust will come right off.. I'd do it outdoors.. the smell can be pretty strong indoors.. all your pieces that are plated will
either just lift off or can be unbolted.
Rinse the pieces well to remove residual cleaner, then polish with the polish of your choice: Wendol, SemiChrome, NeverDull.. they're all
about the same..
Repost some 'after' photos.. when you have 'er all spiffed and polished.
Greg L.
- wsherrick
- Member
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- Joined: Wed. Jun. 18, 2008 6:04 am
- Location: High In The Poconos
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Base Heater, Crawford Base Heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford Base Heater, Glenwood, Stanley Argand
- Coal Size/Type: Chestnut, Stove Size
Yes, this is a very nice stove and as far as Herald's go, not that common, if I'm not mistaken. This one has a solid door. All the ones I have seen have small windows in the door much like Glenwood Oaks. This one looks like it was made around 1900, so it predates a lot of the specimens I have looked at by a few years. The trim is pretty ornate for one of these stoves.LsFarm wrote:Very nice looking stove. If you are going to use the stove, I'd use stove polish not paint.. The paint tends to peel off.
Do you want a 'secret' for cleaning the Nickel plated parts??? Use 0000 steel wool, and toilet bowl cleaner.. Lysol, or 'The Works'.. both
do the job. Wear rubber/latex gloves and just rub the cleaner on the plates surfaces and keep gently rubbing with the super-fine steel wool.
The corrosion and rust will come right off.. I'd do it outdoors.. the smell can be pretty strong indoors.. all your pieces that are plated will
either just lift off or can be unbolted.
Rinse the pieces well to remove residual cleaner, then polish with the polish of your choice: Wendol, SemiChrome, NeverDull.. they're all
about the same..
Repost some 'after' photos.. when you have 'er all spiffed and polished.
Greg L.
Thanks for all the advice and helpful comments. I am still in the dis-assembly process, when I can find time. Found about a half dozen bird skeletons at the base of the backpipe when I pulled out the baffle. Most all of the cast pieces have 1904 on them ,or her.o or some variation like that.Not so good at posting pictures though.==== Alan
that is a nice looking stove,i myself am restoring an old stove. im taking my time on it and am in no hurry, ive got it most of the way striped down. these guys on here are a huge help with anything you need to know, from restoring stoves and running them. good luck with your restoration.
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Peeling paint!! This is usually caused by not cleaning the sheet metal properly. I use Lacquer thinner, then sand paper or a light sandblast at low pressure. Sheet metal is too smooth as it comes from the factory. Then do the lacquer thinner again. Paint is nice because it seals the metal from moisture . You can always polish over it once the stove has been lot a few times. Stove polish is not waterproof so you nbeed to keep applying it.
O.k. ------New questions. Since I plan on the stove being used , and I have completely disassembled it I will have to reseal all joints in the flueways and between sections. what works best ? I use Colco furnace cement at work, ready mixed, and gray in color--- cracks easily. Is there a high temp silicone/caulking that works ? Also the back pipe and the rear of the stove that is sheet metal---high temp paint or stove polish? and finally if I replace nuts and bolts will stainless or neverseize compound make it easier to take apart ?
I paint my stoves and then polish with a fine wire brush on a drill. Sounds strange but it looks like stove polish when it's done and I have never had it peel. People think it's polish.stovehospital wrote:Peeling paint!! This is usually caused by not cleaning the sheet metal properly. I use Lacquer thinner, then sand paper or a light sandblast at low pressure. Sheet metal is too smooth as it comes from the factory. Then do the lacquer thinner again. Paint is nice because it seals the metal from moisture . You can always polish over it once the stove has been lot a few times. Stove polish is not waterproof so you nbeed to keep applying it.