Glenwood Modern Oak # 116

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wsherrick
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Base Heater, Crawford Base Heater
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Post Wed. Feb. 22, 2012 2:35 pm

I agree. If I was in the same situation and I had a quick and inexpensive alternative to get the needed parts, I would take advantage of it. I would still have the parts cast at a later date and I would share them with others that needed them.


stovehospital
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Post Wed. Feb. 22, 2012 4:03 pm

The original grates for the 116 are four bars with gears that hang in a rectangular rack. The rack sits on two rods in the back and hangs by two cotter pins in front. It is not a great grate set up. The grates are also on the thin side and tend to sag fairly quickly. These grates have their gears at the rear which means that recast bars are too short for the gears to mesh properly. That can be fixed with some creative work at the rear of the grate but it is a pain. Not their best hour over at Glenwood. Glenwood also sold a #16 Oak that had no windows in the door and took a round grate that stuck out the right side. It is a better grate set than the four bars. I think the grate is a City Glenwood #14.

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PC 12-47E
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Post Fri. Feb. 24, 2012 4:54 pm

My anthracite pea fire is burning at 440*F at the top of the barrel and 260*F about 18" up the flue pipe.
The temp half way down the indirect back pipe is 125*F and 100*F at the lowest part of the back pipe.

Today at my friend's fabricating shop we made a baffle for the indirect back pipe. I think with a small amount of fitting the Glenwood # 116 Modern Oak will be heating in indirect mode. 8-) :roll: I still need to hang the 5" flue damper on the baffle and modify the damper hinge pin.... I wish the fire was not burning as well as it is but I have to let it go out to fit the new baffle.

After the stove is heating in indirect mode I will take new temp readings........

The baffle is 26.5" by 8" by 1/4" flat stock, and a cast iron 5" damper plate.

Eddie
Attachments
DSC01298.JPG
New indirect damper for #116 Glenwood & original damper for Glenwood # 114
Glenwood "Modern Oak #116"
Fuller & Warren "Art Stewart #14" Baseburner
Jotul "507"
Gibraltar "CFS" brass doors

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LsFarm
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Post Fri. Feb. 24, 2012 6:11 pm

Is there a hole behind the MPD damper plate in the new diverter? Are you going to mount the MPD damper as shown, with the axle horizontal?

If I remember correctly, you made the top cap for the indirect tube, right? could you drill a hole in the cap, and run the handle for the MPD plate through that, and have the axle be vertical instead of horizontal?? A 3/8" nut or 5/16" nut brazed or tack welded on the diverter plate will make dandy bearings for the axle of the MPD damper.

Looking forward to the temperature measurements.

Greg L
Burning Pea/Buckwheat through an antique stoker [semi retired SSboiler],
Running an Axeman-Anderson 260M boiler burning Pea, About 150-250#per day
Farming, Fixing, Fabricating and Flying: 'spare time' what's that?

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PC 12-47E
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Post Fri. Feb. 24, 2012 6:24 pm

LsFarm wrote:Is there a hole behind the MPD damper plate in the new diverter? Are you going to mount the MPD damper as shown, with the axle horizontal?

If I remember correctly, you made the top cap for the indirect tube, right? could you drill a hole in the cap, and run the handle for the MPD plate through that, and have the axle be vertical instead of horizontal?? A 3/8" nut or 5/16" nut brazed or tack welded on the diverter plate will make dandy bearings for the axle of the MPD damper.

Looking forward to the temperature measurements.

Greg L
Hi Greg,

The damper could be mounted 0* or 90* .... The welding or brazing nuts for the bearings is a great idea !!!
Most of the indirect stoves have a damper mounted horizontal. The Glenwood made the damper vertical for the limmited space in the indirect back pipe. Only 4.5" wide. The only reason the 5" damper will work in this stove is that it is centered in the 5" direct vent path out ot the flue pipe.

Eddie
Glenwood "Modern Oak #116"
Fuller & Warren "Art Stewart #14" Baseburner
Jotul "507"
Gibraltar "CFS" brass doors

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LsFarm
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Post Fri. Feb. 24, 2012 7:08 pm

OK, I was just thinking that if the top cap is something you made, and not original, if it were mine, I'd drill a hole in the top cap rather than in the side of the original [i'm assuming] oval indirect pipe.. preserving it's 'originality' if you do find original damper/divider plate parts..

Greg L..
Burning Pea/Buckwheat through an antique stoker [semi retired SSboiler],
Running an Axeman-Anderson 260M boiler burning Pea, About 150-250#per day
Farming, Fixing, Fabricating and Flying: 'spare time' what's that?

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wsherrick
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Base Heater, Crawford Base Heater
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Location: High In The Poconos

Post Fri. Feb. 24, 2012 8:06 pm

That's looking pretty good. You should have that plate fit as tightly into the pipe as possible. You don't want any leaking around the sides of the divider plate. You don't want anything to negate the downward flow of the exhaust.
Any how, I am very interested to see how it works and how it changes the performance of the stove.

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SteveZee
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Post Sat. Feb. 25, 2012 9:51 am

Looks good Eddie, That's exactly what I was thinking as far as simplicity goes. You'll just need to do the top bit. I think it will work better with the 45 degree piece on top, cut to conform to the pipe rather than try and fit the verticle piece tight against the top cap. Just me, but that's the way they always designed them and I think it was because the top cap just sat on the pipe and thus it was easier to seal it off against the side of the pipe with some cement/HT silicone if need be. Then you could remove the top for cleaning/vacume and the like.


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PC 12-47E
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Post Sat. Feb. 25, 2012 5:38 pm

The Glenwood is heating again, now with the indirect baffle and damper. After the cowboy charcoal has burned off I will take some new temp readings. At the moment buning in indirect mode the back pipe is twice as hot as in direct draft mode...............Lots of new HOT smells...... :D

Eddie
Attachments
DSC01300.JPG
DSC01301.JPG
DSC01302.JPG
DSC01303.JPG
DSC01304.JPG
Glenwood "Modern Oak #116"
Fuller & Warren "Art Stewart #14" Baseburner
Jotul "507"
Gibraltar "CFS" brass doors

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wsherrick
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Base Heater, Crawford Base Heater
Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford Base Heater, Glenwood, Stanley Argand
Coal Size/Type: Chestnut, Stove Size
Location: High In The Poconos

Post Sat. Feb. 25, 2012 6:43 pm

Neat!!! I can't wait to hear how it is working.
I am really impressed with the fabrication job you did. I've always thought that it would be fairly easy to make one of these things if you had one to use as a guide. Now lets see how it works.

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ashburnham55
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Post Sat. Feb. 25, 2012 7:00 pm

Eddie,

I am very impressed how quickly you fabricated the parts and more so with how well you did it!

Looking forward to hearing the results.

Bill
Bill

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PC 12-47E
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Post Sat. Feb. 25, 2012 7:52 pm

Ok, the early results are in.....
PC 12-47E wrote:My anthracite pea fire is burning at 440*F at the top of the barrel and 260*F about 18" up the flue pipe.
The temp half way down the indirect back pipe is 125*F and 100*F at the lowest part of the back pipe.
Eddie
Now....This temp reading is @ -.015 WC. on the manometer / draft gauge. Same draft as last temp reading....
440* F at the top of the barrel.
198*F 18" up the flue pipe. 8-)
320* F half way down the indirect back pipe. :eek2:
195*F at the lowest part of the back pipe. :shock:

Not too Shabby :D

Eddie
Glenwood "Modern Oak #116"
Fuller & Warren "Art Stewart #14" Baseburner
Jotul "507"
Gibraltar "CFS" brass doors

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wsherrick
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Posts: 3731
Joined: Wed. Jun. 18, 2008 6:04 am
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Base Heater, Crawford Base Heater
Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford Base Heater, Glenwood, Stanley Argand
Coal Size/Type: Chestnut, Stove Size
Location: High In The Poconos

Post Sat. Feb. 25, 2012 8:26 pm

You'll do even better with it once you get the fine tuning down.
You are discovering like the rest of us that have one of these excellent turn of the century stoves; its nice to have the money you spent on coal going to heat your house rather than the atmosphere outside.

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nortcan
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Post Sat. Feb. 25, 2012 8:58 pm

Super job Eddie.

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LsFarm
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Post Sun. Feb. 26, 2012 11:59 am

Hi Eddie, have you determined why there is that middle hole in the divider plate in the original and in your repro plate??

Can you laser the indirect pipe and detect the 'hot spot' where the exhaust is coming through the middle hole instead of making the full distance to the bottom of the indiect pipe, and making the 180* turn through the inverted 'U' ??

I'm a currious guy,, I'd be tempted to 'experiment and make a temporary plate to cover the intermediate hole, and see if that results in hotter temps at the base of the stove, expecially in the cast iron base, I'd think it might make the stove a better heater..

So can you tell the difference in the room, is the stove heating the room/house better??

Greg L
Burning Pea/Buckwheat through an antique stoker [semi retired SSboiler],
Running an Axeman-Anderson 260M boiler burning Pea, About 150-250#per day
Farming, Fixing, Fabricating and Flying: 'spare time' what's that?


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