Glenwood Modern Oak # 116

LsFarm wrote:Hi Eddie, have you determined why there is that middle hole in the divider plate in the original and in your repro plate??

Can you laser the indirect pipe and detect the 'hot spot' where the exhaust is coming through the middle hole instead of making the full distance to the bottom of the indiect pipe, and making the 180* turn through the inverted 'U' ??

I'm a currious guy,, I'd be tempted to 'experiment and make a temporary plate to cover the intermediate hole, and see if that results in hotter temps at the base of the stove, expecially in the cast iron base, I'd think it might make the stove a better heater..

So can you tell the difference in the room, is the stove heating the room/house better??

Greg L

Hi Greg,
I think the middle hole in the divider plate is for safety....the lower half oval will fill up with ash and crud if you do not check it and clean it. The Crawford indirect stove that I heated with early in the winter was full of ash in the indirect back pipe ( when I bought it ). If the indirect damper had been closed the stove would have vented into the house. The indirect stoves have a clean out door at the base of the back pipe. Clean them early & often....
I know where the middle hole is from my pattern and can find it with the laser temp gauge.
I think I will add one more damper plate to the middle hole. All I need for parts will cost less than $8.00 . I think the stove would put out more heat also.....

The room is much warmer... The stucco / block wall behind the stove is hot to the touch. I did not take a temp reading before. The wall now is 135*F, the mid back pipe is 350* F, the top of the barrel is @ 540*F and the flue pipe is 210* F.

Eddie

Are you using regular stovepipe for the casing on this? Great job by the way! Could you post pics of the entire installed stove?

PC 12-47E wrote:

LsFarm wrote:Hi Eddie, have you determined why there is that middle hole in the divider plate in the original and in your repro plate??

Can you laser the indirect pipe and detect the 'hot spot' where the exhaust is coming through the middle hole instead of making the full distance to the bottom of the indiect pipe, and making the 180* turn through the inverted 'U' ??

I'm a currious guy,, I'd be tempted to 'experiment and make a temporary plate to cover the intermediate hole, and see if that results in hotter temps at the base of the stove, expecially in the cast iron base, I'd think it might make the stove a better heater..

So can you tell the difference in the room, is the stove heating the room/house better??

Greg L

Hi Greg,
I think the middle hole in the divider plate is for safety....the lower half oval will fill up with ash and crud if you do not check it and clean it. The Crawford indirect stove that I heated with early in the winter was full of ash in the indirect back pipe ( when I bought it ). If the indirect damper had been closed the stove would have vented into the house. The indirect stoves have a clean out door at the base of the back pipe. Clean them early & often....
I know where the middle hole is from my pattern and can find it with the laser temp gauge.
I think I will add one more damper plate to the middle hole. All I need for parts will cost less than $8.00 . I think the stove would put out more heat also.....

The room is much warmer... The stucco / block wall behind the stove is hot to the touch. I did not take a temp reading before. The wall now is 135*F, the mid back pipe is 350* F, the top of the barrel is @ 540*F and the flue pipe is 210* F.

Eddie

Of course, (smacked hand to the forehead) that would be a very reasonable explaination for the hole. I never thought of that,but; I bet you are correct. I was thinking and thinking about why it would be there. I knew they put it there for a very good reason, I couldn't figure out why. Good deduction there. I wonder if you look at the Crawford if it has a similiar hole in the divider plate. It would be interesting to find out.
Again, capital job on the whole fabrication.

That explaination makes sense. I hadn't thought about the fly ash accumulation. Does your Glenwood have a clean out door in the cast base of the indirect pipe? I can't see it from the photos.

I was thinking that this hole may have been so that the basic casting could be used with the indirect pipes that have a more central flue pipe exit. But that doesn't really make sense now that I think about it.. It would be interesting to see the divider plate for the style of indirect pipe where the flue exit is near the middle of the indirect pipe.. I think there was a photo posted of a pipe like this.

So where in you house is this stove and the others on that long hearth located? in a basement/ lower level? How do you move the heat around the house??

Greg L

The clean out door in the cast iron base of the indirect pipe is in this pic.

Also the door is in the tray in the next pic.

The other stove heating the house, a Jotul 507, is on the same floor venting into the 16" X 16" tile flue fireplace. This is an old farmhouse 200+ year old with lots of small rooms and hard to move the heat around it. About 3,000 sq/ft.

The last pic is of the Jotul 507 in the fireplace. The Glenwood is in the room just behind the fireplace. Same chimney one flue is 8"X8" and the other is 16"X16".

Hi Eddie, I sure wish my fireplace was that size.. I could easily put my Art Garland in that opening and have the flue clear the lintle.
My lintle is only 25" above the hearth. Greg L.

PJT wrote:Are you using regular stovepipe for the casing on this? Great job by the way! Could you post pics of the entire installed stove?

The back pipe is regular 6" heavy stove pipe. When it is shaped in an oval it is 8"X 4.5".

Look at the heat line on the back pipe. The stove did not have the indirect baffle in the last pic.
Now, with the indirect baffle and damper, the back pipe is all the same color.

Eddie

LsFarm wrote:Hi Eddie, I sure wish my fireplace was that size.. I could easily put my Art Garland in that opening and have the flue clear the lintle.
My lintle is only 25" above the hearth.

Greg L.

My fireplace is 41.5" high and 47" wide and 20" deep at the base.

Good observation on that divider hole. I was wracking my brain over that too! Seemed to defeat things a bit but makes perfect sense now. My Herald has that same cleanout door on the bottom elbow. It can get some fly ash in there from both directions. Using the indirect damper in normal run mode and when you use the check damper for sure. With the check damper open you pulling air right over the top of the ash pan and bottom of the grates. I cleaned mine out for the first time this winter about a week ago and it had a little bit in there but no more than a handfull. Best to be safe though for sure.

Did you ever put the angle piece on the top of the divider Eddie, or just use the top of the divider against the cap as the cut off, to stop exhaust taking the path of least resistance up and over?

SteveZee wrote: Did you ever put the angle piece on the top of the divider Eddie, or just use the top of the divider against the cap as the cut off, to stop exhaust taking the path of least resistance up and over?

Hey Steve,
I just fit the divider to the backpipe cap and made a gasket with Permatex high-temp red RTV Silicone.

wsherrick wrote: Of course, (smacked hand to the forehead) that would be a very reasonable explaination for the hole. I never thought of that,but; I bet you are correct. I was thinking and thinking about why it would be there. I knew they put it there for a very good reason, I couldn't figure out why. Good deduction there. I wonder if you look at the Crawford if it has a similiar hole in the divider plate. It would be interesting to find out.
Again, capital job on the whole fabrication.

Hi William,
The only picture I have of the Crawford inside backpipe is not very clear. I sold the Crawford to a Forum member that has a Glenwood #6 Base Heater in Maine.

Eddie

So if you don't block off the lower circular hole wont the smoke take the quickest path out through it?

PJT wrote:So if you don't block off the lower circular hole wont the smoke take the quickest path out through it?

I would think that some would yes. It's probably a percentage they factor in to have the safety valve and yet the long flame path too.