Glenwood Modern Oak # 116

Smokeyja wrote:Maybe this has been explained before but why do they call it an oak? Is it the same design as a #6 or #8 and the other base heaters? This will help me when I go to buy a base heater.

The Modern Glenwood Oak is not a Baseheater / baseburner but is is an indrect back pipe coal or wood stove... I have been told that they burn anthracite very well.

How about a line drawing or a cut-away drawing of how the exhaust gasses make it from the top of the coal fire, down the indirect pipe, and then back up the pipe?? The only way I can visualize it is that that back pipe is divided internally into two pipes, and in one half the exhaust gasses flow down to the ashpan 'base', and then the exhaust gasses turn around and flow back up the other half of the indirect pipe to the flue , thimble and chimney..

I'd sure like to see a good line drawing of what the airflow pattern is..

So the efficiency of the stove is derived from heating the base and mixing exhaust gasses with the combustion air that feeds the fire?? or is there separate combustion air/exhaust gas passageways in the base-ashpan area??

Greg L

Very nice stove Eddie! Do you have to rebuild the stove completly? Looks in good shape.

PC 12-47E wrote:

Smokeyja wrote:Man you are on a stove buying roll!

LOL...
You have to strike while the iron is hot.

Now this is amazing, you don't see this very often. This stove still has the original brick lining that was put in it at the Glenwood Foundry when the stove was made. You see how they formed the bricks to fit into the round fire pot. I have seen just a few other stoves that still had the brick lining. My Stanley Argand still has the original brick from when the stove was new in 1890. I have a feeling that a lot of stoves had refractory linings when they were new and they were lost after so many years.

Oh, there is another thing I just noticed. The nuts on the inside of the barrel have the old fashioned square cut type nuts. Those could very well be original as well. This stove may have gone its entire life without being rebuilt or if it was it has been a long long time since then.

Ya could make some forms to cast some 'New' old style bricks...
From the original bricks...

LsFarm wrote:How about a line drawing or a cut-away drawing of how the exhaust gasses make it from the top of the coal fire, down the indirect pipe, and then back up the pipe?? The only way I can visualize it is that that back pipe is divided internally into two pipes, and in one half the exhaust gasses flow down to the ashpan 'base', and then the exhaust gasses turn around and flow back up the other half of the indirect pipe to the flue , thimble and chimney..

I'd sure like to see a good line drawing of what the airflow pattern is..

So the efficiency of the stove is derived from heating the base and mixing exhaust gasses with the combustion air that feeds the fire?? or is there separate combustion air/exhaust gas passageways in the base-ashpan area??

Greg L

Greg, the way the indirect pipe works is pretty close to what your thinking. The exhaust goes out the collar and hits the closed damper. It draws down to the bottom, through a horseshoe shaped bottom (of the back pipe divider) and up the other side (back side) of the back pipe. The divider with the damper cast into it, splits the back pipe into two chamber front and back.

A Baseheater works in the same way but the back pipe has a valve in it that directs the gasses under the ashpan (they have a double bottom) then out and up that back part.

A Baseburner is set up just like an indirect cylinder stove but the back pipe has no divider. Instead, the damper in mounted in the exhaust collar thus blocks the gas off completely (from the back pipe when closed) and forces it down around the suspended firepot into the double walled ash pit area and out the back, up the backpipe and out. Hope that makes sense.

Started a charcoal fire in the Glenwood @ 4:30, now I have the blue ladies dancing. The stove is @ 400*F on the top of the barrel.... several windowstats open... I had to spray the stove liberaly with WD40 after I picked it up. The roads were wet with lots of salt and the Glenwood was covered with lots of winter road grime. Most of the WD40 has burned off now... This Glenwood Modern Oak # 116 is making some serious heat !!!

Eddie

Super, keep on posting.

Just wait until you get the back pipe working like it is supposed to. Keep us updated on your progress with the Modern Oak.

To show the Bride's base burner path.

Way to go Eddie,

Like Will said, when you get that backpipe squared, you'll like it even more because you'll keep more of the heat in the room. I'll bet she pumps it out though. How would you compare it too the Gibralter heat wise? Sure looks good there though!

SteveZee wrote:Way to go Eddie,

Like Will said, when you get that backpipe squared, you'll like it even more because you'll keep more of the heat in the room. I'll bet she pumps it out though. How would you compare it too the Gibralter heat wise? Sure looks good there though!

The Glenwood will deliver much more heat than the Gibraltar !!!! The lower skirt / trim ring does an outstanding job redirecting the heat down and away from the firepot. The hearth under the trim ring is at 130-150*F. I placed some baking trays full of water under the stove because of the high temp...
I think the Gibraltar, not a bad stove at all, would need to run at least 100*F hotter to keep up with the heat output of the Glenwood.
I talked with Emery at the Stove Hospital and he told me that the 116 will work OK without the indirect damper backpipe parts. He also said that I would see a noticeable difference with the indirect damper baffle. Emery thinks he may have the parts to recast....
Ashburnham55 had all the parts needed but Emery told me that the 114 and the 116 were quite a bit different. I hope to find the parts at some point. But I am going to keep heating with the Glenwood as is.

Eddie

Stove looks great and it's very interesting hearing the differences of it and the Gilbraltar which im sure is a fine stove in its own right.

I would be interested in the coal usage comparrisons when you get to that point.

Keep us updated on the casting of parts also, I for one could use that information.

Eddie,

Yep I sure would too (keep running). They came both ways, as a direct draft and indirect so no worries. I'd keep a look out for the baffle or at least one to copy from. I would have thought the 114 would have worked? Emery knows a heck of a lot more than me though! Hopefully he can cast you one. I think the differance (as far as I can tell with my Herald) is the stove runs hotter direct, with a bit higher stack temp. When I close that damper, it settles back about 50 degrees and will burn a good bit longer with lower stack temp.

PC 12-47E wrote:

SteveZee wrote:Way to go Eddie,

Like Will said, when you get that backpipe squared, you'll like it even more because you'll keep more of the heat in the room. I'll bet she pumps it out though. How would you compare it too the Gibralter heat wise? Sure looks good there though!

The Glenwood will deliver much more heat than the Gibraltar !!!! The lower skirt / trim ring does an outstanding job redirecting the heat down and away from the firepot. The hearth under the trim ring is at 130-150*F. I placed some baking trays full of water under the stove because of the high temp...
I think the Gibraltar, not a bad stove at all, would need to run at least 100*F hotter to keep up with the heat output of the Glenwood.
I talked with Emery at the Stove Hospital and he told me that the 116 will work OK without the indirect damper backpipe parts. He also said that I would see a noticeable difference with the indirect damper baffle. Emery thinks he may have the parts to recast....
Ashburnham55 had all the parts needed but Emery told me that the 114 and the 116 were quite a bit different. I hope to find the parts at some point. But I am going to keep heating with the Glenwood as is.

Eddie

Seeing is believing. I could have told you that the Glenwood would easily outdo the Gibralter. If the Glenwood's seams and doors are as they should be, the Glenwood can produce much more heat for less coal. Even as a direct draft stove they are better. The upright design is simply more efficient for burning coal than other types. Most people think the pretty skirt is a needless piece of decoration. You can truly feel a noticable improvement in the stove's ability to warm the air around it because of the skirt.