Do You Like Your ANTIQUE Stove?

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echos67
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Post by echos67 » Thu. Jan. 12, 2012 4:51 pm

coalturkey wrote:I got up at 5 and the stove was 550/125 on the flue. House as warm as toast. What a stove! It just proves what you all say about the antiques. They not only are beautiful but they are extremely efficient. I believe this stove will cut my usage by about 25% or more.
In your previous pictures the stove looks happy to be burning and giving off heat. Your fortunate to have your stove on what looks like the main living space so you can sit and enjoy the dancing blue flames. I was unable to get mine installed anywhere but the basement this year, it is doing very well though what few days it is cold, 60 again here today but the freeze is heading this way they say :blah: :roll: and the stove is idling along in the mid 100*'s.

This is my first year heating with coal and this winter has been very warm here so my return on investment should be very quick considering I havent had to burn hardly any coal. :D


 
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Smokeyja
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Post by Smokeyja » Thu. Jan. 12, 2012 6:03 pm

coalturkey wrote:Here's a couple of pictures. I kind of was shaking on the second one, must be the Jameson's 12 year kicking in. It was a long ride up and back and I am kicking back watching the "Blue Ladies" dance. Gosh that is a nice stove. 650 and 150 on the flue. Warm as toast. The range is all in parts right now. Needs some welding but it will be a beauty when it is done. I set it up in the old house we are in now till the other one is done. If it can heat this windy dump, it can heat the world.
Looks great there Mike :clap: and I have a nice bottle of 12 year Jameson right by me as well ;)

 
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wsherrick
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Post by wsherrick » Thu. Jan. 12, 2012 8:21 pm

echos67 wrote:
coalturkey wrote:I got up at 5 and the stove was 550/125 on the flue. House as warm as toast. What a stove! It just proves what you all say about the antiques. They not only are beautiful but they are extremely efficient. I believe this stove will cut my usage by about 25% or more.
In your previous pictures the stove looks happy to be burning and giving off heat. Your fortunate to have your stove on what looks like the main living space so you can sit and enjoy the dancing blue flames. I was unable to get mine installed anywhere but the basement this year, it is doing very well though what few days it is cold, 60 again here today but the freeze is heading this way they say :blah: :roll: and the stove is idling along in the mid 100*'s.

This is my first year heating with coal and this winter has been very warm here so my return on investment should be very quick considering I havent had to burn hardly any coal. :D
Fear not, for behold, you will receive some cold weather begining this weekend and next week as well.

 
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echos67
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Post by echos67 » Thu. Jan. 12, 2012 9:08 pm

Here is a question that would apply to any stove really but I will post it here since it pertains to my old stove in this situation.

I can get alot of temperature adjustments just by using the mpd, for example if my stove is set and burning at 300* I can get +/- 50* by turning the mpd an 1/8" and if I turn it a 1/4" I can get 75-100* temp differences depending which way I go close to cool and open to make hotter. I do not have a thermometer on the flue pipe (spare broke) just one on the stove so I really don't know where the cut off for efficency is. What do most of you do mpd wise adjust small amounts or use primary only for heat adjustment after setting mpd ? As it is with using the primary and mpd for temperature adjustments you can dial the stove temp into almost anywhere you want it like a cooking stove, you want 350 ok, no problem.

I do not have the rear elbow with the check damper in it yet but hope to find one someday and I can imagine the temperature adjustments then maybe to +/- 5* of what you want.

 
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wsherrick
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Post by wsherrick » Thu. Jan. 12, 2012 10:09 pm

I've never used the pipe damper to control the temperatures or at least I haven't noticed. The check damper is very good for extra control of the fire. You can reduce the stove temperature up to 200 degrees with proper use of the check damper. On check dampers that are on the outside exhaust pipe, care must be exercised in their use. You have to beware of draft reversals that might send exhaust back into the house. On a good chimney that always has a positive draw, there isn't much risk of a back draft.

 
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Post by stelradCoal » Thu. Jan. 12, 2012 10:36 pm

nortcan wrote: Hi Jay, is you Glenwood kitchen stove an anthracite stove or a wood burning stove?
Don't forget, we love photos here!
My Glenwood kitchen stove is a coal stove. I don't really ever burn wood in it. My grandmother used to when I was a kid, the stove was in the basement and she would burn some sticks and make soup on it sometimes.

I'll have to take some new pictures, but I am pretty sure I have posted some here in the past. I'll take a look and see if they are still around.

Jay

 
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Post by nortcan » Fri. Jan. 13, 2012 12:16 pm

William, are you planning to make some more videos showing the new stove you got?


 
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Post by nortcan » Fri. Jan. 13, 2012 12:22 pm

david78 wrote:Sounds like a chilly day in Maine!
My stove has a 16' firepot, direct draft, triangular grates. There's a Splendid Oak thread on here of what I did to restore it. I haven't used the Harman yet. I bought it for an addition I'm building and just haven't need it yet.
David, 16" fire pot, with or without a liner?
How deep is the fire pot?
What is the lowest temp. you can idle the stove?
Thanks

 
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Post by nortcan » Fri. Jan. 13, 2012 12:38 pm

echos67 wrote:Good one Pierre :lol: tell us about your stoves William.

I just restarted my stove last night after about a week and a half of being out due to the warmer than usual weather around here. At this point I can start a coal fire in this stove very easily, maybe other stoves are harder im not sure. I took the down time and made a few Nortications (modifications), the best result is from relocating the damper closer to the stove at 16". I also cleaned the chimney, resealed all the doors, and blasted and polished the upper door, by the way the Williams polish in my opinion far exceeds the Rutlands as it gives a more black instead of gray color to the cast iron. The cast piece under the finial is Rutlands for comparrison, the picture angle shows more of a contrast but it is close to what is shown. I am looking forward to doing the total refurb with fresh nickle plating after the heating season this year.
Williams Polish Upper Door.jpg
I missed this post????? :arrow: :?:
Salutations

 
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Post by nortcan » Fri. Jan. 13, 2012 12:41 pm

coalturkey wrote:Here's a couple of pictures. I kind of was shaking on the second one, must be the Jameson's 12 year kicking in. It was a long ride up and back and I am kicking back watching the "Blue Ladies" dance. Gosh that is a nice stove. 650 and 150 on the flue. Warm as toast. The range is all in parts right now. Needs some welding but it will be a beauty when it is done. I set it up in the old house we are in now till the other one is done. If it can heat this windy dump, it can heat the world.
I also missed that one too???? I should stop to read and re-read only my own posts :oops:
Nice set up and a very good photo showing the stove at work.

 
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Tim
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Post by Tim » Fri. Jan. 13, 2012 1:50 pm

Nice write ups folks!
Well you have all said it best....all I can add is that it is bought 14 degrees outside with a strong gusting wind and my shop is a comfy 72 with the Ol Glenwood #30 just purrin away in the corner so I just cannot complain!
Current settings are as follows:
Primaries open 1/2
secondary open bought 1/8"
damper in the back pipe closed
MPD set at just a hair from being closed
Top of stove is at 450 and at the wall thimble I am at 98
Now for anyone having trouble with shaking your triangular bar grates just swing your shaker handle bought 30 degrees in both directions a few times then take your shaker handle open the load door and give the coal a light "TAP" with the buisiness end of the handle so your coal bed settles down on top of the grates, alternately shake each grate a few more times until you see a glow coming from around the gap around the end of the 2 grates protruding through the dust cover and STOP!...you are dun!
You never want to run the handle 180 degrees.
later,
Tim

 
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echos67
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Post by echos67 » Fri. Jan. 13, 2012 5:20 pm

nortcan wrote:
echos67 wrote:Good one Pierre :lol: tell us about your stoves William.

I just restarted my stove last night after about a week and a half of being out due to the warmer than usual weather around here. At this point I can start a coal fire in this stove very easily, maybe other stoves are harder im not sure. I took the down time and made a few Nortications (modifications), the best result is from relocating the damper closer to the stove at 16". I also cleaned the chimney, resealed all the doors, and blasted and polished the upper door, by the way the Williams polish in my opinion far exceeds the Rutlands as it gives a more black instead of gray color to the cast iron. The cast piece under the finial is Rutlands for comparrison, the picture angle shows more of a contrast but it is close to what is shown. I am looking forward to doing the total refurb with fresh nickle plating after the heating season this year.
Williams Polish Upper Door.jpg
I missed this post????? :arrow: :?:
Salutations
I made that word up to describe my modifications in honor of you Pierre :lol:

 
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wsherrick
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Post by wsherrick » Fri. Jan. 13, 2012 5:39 pm

Tim wrote:Nice write ups folks!
Well you have all said it best....all I can add is that it is bought 14 degrees outside with a strong gusting wind and my shop is a comfy 72 with the Ol Glenwood #30 just purrin away in the corner so I just cannot complain!
Current settings are as follows:
Primaries open 1/2
secondary open bought 1/8"
damper in the back pipe closed
MPD set at just a hair from being closed
Top of stove is at 450 and at the wall thimble I am at 98
Now for anyone having trouble with shaking your triangular bar grates just swing your shaker handle bought 30 degrees in both directions a few times then take your shaker handle open the load door and give the coal a light "TAP" with the buisiness end of the handle so your coal bed settles down on top of the grates, alternately shake each grate a few more times until you see a glow coming from around the gap around the end of the 2 grates protruding through the dust cover and STOP!...you are dun!
You never want to run the handle 180 degrees.
later,
Tim
Sounds like you are living well on Coal Stove Easy Street, there Tim. I can't wait until you get the base heater for the house. Happy New Year to you and the Glenwood #30 so how many New Years has it seen, let's see; 114 New Years. That's quite a few.

 
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echos67
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Post by echos67 » Fri. Jan. 13, 2012 5:40 pm

Tim wrote:Nice write ups folks!
Well you have all said it best....all I can add is that it is bought 14 degrees outside with a strong gusting wind and my shop is a comfy 72 with the Ol Glenwood #30 just purrin away in the corner so I just cannot complain!
Current settings are as follows:
Primaries open 1/2
secondary open bought 1/8"
damper in the back pipe closed
MPD set at just a hair from being closed
Top of stove is at 450 and at the wall thimble I am at 98
Now for anyone having trouble with shaking your triangular bar grates just swing your shaker handle bought 30 degrees in both directions a few times then take your shaker handle open the load door and give the coal a light "TAP" with the buisiness end of the handle so your coal bed settles down on top of the grates, alternately shake each grate a few more times until you see a glow coming from around the gap around the end of the 2 grates protruding through the dust cover and STOP!...you are dun!
You never want to run the handle 180 degrees.
later,
Tim

Tim,
I read this post while on lunch today at work, I have been using a poker to go around the sides of the firepot to get the coal to drop before so tonight I had to try the handle end and it knocked it down so much better then the way I was doing it before. I will be making a tool with a blunt end on it to use from now on.

The temps are supposed to drop into the 20's overnight so I thought I would try your settings, the only diff is I don't have the back pipe damper (check damper ?) and since yours is closed they should run close to the same. My thermometer is located on the side of the barrell near the top, is yours on the plate under the finial ?

Is your stove tending time 12 hours and is it still running the 450* when you do tend it ?

Previous settings
Primaries open 1/4"
secondary closed
damper in the back pipe N/A
MPD set at 150* if 180* is fully closed
Side of stove is at 350*
degrees-360.gif
.GIF | 8.3KB | degrees-360.gif

 
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nortcan
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Post by nortcan » Fri. Jan. 13, 2012 5:45 pm

echos, to honor your new word "NORTICATIONS", I just called to Cassell's Dictionary and told them for the new word. The were very happy and promised to send me a nice bonu$. Naturally as a good friend of yours, I told them the new word was from me. I know that I'm beeing a too good guy. :angel:
Sans rancune mon ami! Well, I hope you still be!


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