Home Stove Works
- smithy
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- Location: nw Indiana
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Columbia
- Baseburners & Antiques: Chicago Stove Works home perfect 214
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Thanks for the info but the misalignment was not that much couldn't really tell at first but as things progress everything seem to straighten out I am at about 85 percent . I am starting to look at the trim and am not Shuer if the nickel is gone or if it is actualy that bright like chrome I thought nickel had a bit more yellowish hue? And I don't know if you will be able to tell from the picture
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- dlj
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- Location: Monroe, NY
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vermont Castings Resolute
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Baseheater #6
- Coal Size/Type: Stove coal
- Other Heating: Oil Furnace, electric space heaters
You'd have to have chrome plate and nickel plate side by side to see any difference.... They are quite close in appearance.
dj
dj
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12x24 was a common size years ago. .216 diameter.smithy wrote:Thanks Steve !
What size stove bolts do you think 10/24 or a quarter 20? the quarter 20 seem a little too big . the stove was assembled for decoration with what look like 10/32 nickel plate . Not sure which direction to go and wish I could get brite finished machine screws with square nuts. Also the tabs seem to be slightly tapered.don't really get complete flat purchase against the back side of the nut .
- SteveZee
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- Location: Downeast , Maine
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Modern Oak 116 & Glenwood 208 C Range
Smithy,
You are right that the nickel is generally a "warmer" look than chrome. Yellow versus blue on the color/heat scale. As a kid I worked summers in my Uncles plating shop (cad line or these copper rods for GE). We did a bit of decorative plating for Bikers and old stoves too. Nickel plating is soft and thus will have a flash of chrome over the top of it to add durability. The less the flash, the warmer the look. It's just done to make it last longer. Looking at your picture that looks like good nickel and in excellent shape too. Give it a polish and your good to go.
You are right that the nickel is generally a "warmer" look than chrome. Yellow versus blue on the color/heat scale. As a kid I worked summers in my Uncles plating shop (cad line or these copper rods for GE). We did a bit of decorative plating for Bikers and old stoves too. Nickel plating is soft and thus will have a flash of chrome over the top of it to add durability. The less the flash, the warmer the look. It's just done to make it last longer. Looking at your picture that looks like good nickel and in excellent shape too. Give it a polish and your good to go.
- smithy
- Member
- Posts: 204
- Joined: Sat. Oct. 09, 2010 8:31 am
- Location: nw Indiana
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Columbia
- Baseburners & Antiques: Chicago Stove Works home perfect 214
- Coal Size/Type: Nut
But see that's what I'm saying the part thats cleaned up , that's real shiny kinda looks like chrome but the part that I have not polished yet kind of has a yellow tinge to it and I'm wondering if I'm just taking the nickel right off and I'm getting down to a polished base metal? Does that make sense or Am I overthinking this again I have to work it pretty hard to get that shiny I'm using green polishing compound and a muslin wheel .
- SteveZee
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Modern Oak 116 & Glenwood 208 C Range
Nope I seriously doubt it. The way plating is done, you have a base coat of copper to fill in imperfections, then the nickel amd the chrome is flashed last. I only meant to hand polish it as personally, I like the "lovingly used as an appliance" look. We used wheels in the shop though. Up to you but you're not removing anything but oxidation.smithy wrote:But see that's what I'm saying the part thats cleaned up , that's real shiny kinda looks like chrome but the part that I have not polished yet kind of has a yellow tinge to it and I'm wondering if I'm just taking the nickel right off and I'm getting down to a polished base metal? Does that make sense or Am I overthinking this again I have to work it pretty hard to get that shiny I'm using green polishing compound and a muslin wheel .
Like Steve said, probably better to rub by hand, specially on an old ,aged nickel finish. I think just clean it with a product like Flitz would give good results.
The photos I sent show a chrome surface and the foot rail from my Bride. But the nickel is just redone, so may be more yellowish than an aged finish????
The photos I sent show a chrome surface and the foot rail from my Bride. But the nickel is just redone, so may be more yellowish than an aged finish????
- smithy
- Member
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- Joined: Sat. Oct. 09, 2010 8:31 am
- Location: nw Indiana
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Columbia
- Baseburners & Antiques: Chicago Stove Works home perfect 214
- Coal Size/Type: Nut
You know I believe what I'm seeing is a possibility that sometime it may have been lacquered as I am seeing what looks like brush strokes not only on the nickeled parts but also on some of the non nickeled parts and it has yellowed overtime I really should not be concerned with this right now as I have a bit of work to do yet on the stove proper.
The fella that I bought this from said it was restored 4 decorations in 1982 which included drilling a hole in the side for a lamp cord that simulated a fire.
the stove was completely taken apart cleaned and painted and reassemble for display it was missing two dampers a bafflel under the base and of course stove cement
The fella that I bought this from said it was restored 4 decorations in 1982 which included drilling a hole in the side for a lamp cord that simulated a fire.
the stove was completely taken apart cleaned and painted and reassemble for display it was missing two dampers a bafflel under the base and of course stove cement
- SteveZee
- Member
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- Joined: Wed. May. 11, 2011 10:45 am
- Location: Downeast , Maine
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Modern Oak 116 & Glenwood 208 C Range
That's probably exactly right Smithy. People who used them for decorations would certainly lacquer the nickel as a way to keep it from oxidation. That's exactly what you are removing and thought was a plating layer. Good eye!
I agree that the stove proper comes first since the heating season will be on us soon. You are pretty well on top of it though. I'll bet you it's ready to roll come match striking time! You've been doing excellent work. I'm impressed. My Herald, done this summer only has the trim painted with HT chrome out of a rattle can. It actually looks ok (because it's consistent) but eventually will have nice nickel plating redone. I'm waiting till I have the extra cash to take the Herald parts and some of my Glenwood C cookstove trim all at once in a batch deal. My cousin owns Royal Plating and Polishing in Pittsfield, Ma. so maybe he'll cut me a deal.
I agree that the stove proper comes first since the heating season will be on us soon. You are pretty well on top of it though. I'll bet you it's ready to roll come match striking time! You've been doing excellent work. I'm impressed. My Herald, done this summer only has the trim painted with HT chrome out of a rattle can. It actually looks ok (because it's consistent) but eventually will have nice nickel plating redone. I'm waiting till I have the extra cash to take the Herald parts and some of my Glenwood C cookstove trim all at once in a batch deal. My cousin owns Royal Plating and Polishing in Pittsfield, Ma. so maybe he'll cut me a deal.
Smithy,
The stove looks great. I agree about hand polishing the nickel. I read somewhere on here that “Bar Keepers Friend” (found at LOWES) is good for cleaning the nickel and maintaining its original hue. Keep up the good work.
Rob
The stove looks great. I agree about hand polishing the nickel. I read somewhere on here that “Bar Keepers Friend” (found at LOWES) is good for cleaning the nickel and maintaining its original hue. Keep up the good work.
Rob
- smithy
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- Location: nw Indiana
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Columbia
- Baseburners & Antiques: Chicago Stove Works home perfect 214
- Coal Size/Type: Nut
Thanks guys.you too kind actuality the stove was in great condition when purchased and I am a bit ocd and when working in the shop I can't help but fuss a little.
The fire pot needs a root canal. My friend says castiron's not to hard to drill and tap. If I put studs in place where the teeth were I could rebuild with refractory.
The fire pot needs a root canal. My friend says castiron's not to hard to drill and tap. If I put studs in place where the teeth were I could rebuild with refractory.