Coalpail.com Forum

I know this is a wood burner but maybe the parts are the same I need to know how to get the damper wheel off.How does the acorn style nut come off, any help thanks

Check your pm little envelope at the top of the page.

Eric

actually it is not a nut, it is a spring loaded cover that puts pressure on the damper.
There is a stud going through the center from the front and it is peened on the backside, you have to grind it smooth on the inside of the door and tap it out with a hammer....NOW I mean tap not beat ...lol

Thank you I kinda thought id have to do that.Now for reassembly How is that done?

mastiffdude wrote:Thank you I kinda thought id have to do that.Now for reassembly How is that done?

You'll have to get another shaft (if it's to short after grinding) and repeen it, sort of like you would do bucking a rivet. May I ask why you need to remove it? Is the spring broken?

Try to take the smallest amount of metal possible as you grind on the back side. You can use a nail punch to force out the pin. The object is to leave enough metal on the end to re-peen the pin back onto the door. Replace the spring under the cap on the outside and then you will have an air tight damper that will give perfect control over the fire. I assume you have a Glenwood Modern Oak No 118. No it is not a wood stove. It is a dual fuel stove that was designed to have wood as a secondary fuel. If it has prismactic (triangular shape bar grates) then it is for coal.
If it is set up for wood only you will have what is called a, "register plate," instead of the bar grates. A register plate is simply a flat piece of cast iron with slots cut in it for air to get through.
It would be nice if we could see more pictures of your stove.

wsherrick wrote:Try to take the smallest amount of metal possible as you grind on the back side. You can use a nail punch to force out the pin. The object is to leave enough metal on the end to re-peen the pin back onto the door. Replace the spring under the cap on the outside and then you will have an air tight damper that will give perfect control over the fire. I assume you have a Glenwood Modern Oak No 118. No it is not a wood stove. It is a dual fuel stove that was designed to have wood as a secondary fuel. If it has prismactic (triangular shape bar grates) then it is for coal.
If it is set up for wood only you will have what is called a, "register plate," instead of the bar grates. A register plate is simply a flat piece of cast iron with slots cut in it for air to get through.
It would be nice if we could see more pictures of your stove.

Yep, I was curous to see it too. I was looking at a friends Excellsior in her barn. It has bar grates, but they are deffinately for wood. They are not the triangular prismatics but rather two sided and smooth versus having teeth on the outsides and have slots or vents along the middle.

You are probably right about the flat grates being wood grates. At the Turn Of The Century they had a million different types of grates and countless variations on them. Of course, each company would tout how their grates were the best grates. I don't think either of us will live long enough to see half of the wild designs of grates that were available back then.

thanks for replies I wanted to get them off to have them nickel plated. Heres is the stove completely redone(not mine).Mine can look like it if I have the parts plated.Nickel plater quoted me $500 here in PA.I will put more pix of the grates and unerneath the grates where the grates turn thanks again JIM

mastiffdude wrote:thanks for replies I wanted to get them off to have them nickel plated. Heres is the stove completely redone(not mine).Mine can look like it if I have the parts plated.Nickel plater quoted me $500 here in PA.I will put more pix of the grates and unerneath the grates where the grates turn thanks again JIM

Oh, you quite welcome. We, have a growing Glenwood family here. There are several of us who have discovered these superior stoves. I have two of them now. So, you have plenty of company. Have you used the stove yet or did you just get it?

Jim,

Beautiful stove. Why did you call it a woodburner? It looks like it could easily be a coal burner too? Depends on the grates you have installed but that stove would be an excellent coal burner too.

Good info, I also have a loose one on my No 6. Is there any special spring? Where can you buy a new cap if you need one?

Rob

rasct wrote:Good info, I also have a loose one on my No 6. Is there any special spring? Where can you buy a new cap if you need one?

Rob

Rob, If you have a loose damper, William shared a little trick you can use to tighten it up. I think it's posted in my Herald thread somewhere but it goes like this. You get a small 3/8's lockwasher and cut a slot in it so it slides into and around the shaft. Then take a small flat bladed screwdriver and carefully pry up the cap a bit and slip it under. This of course tightens up the spring in there and thus the damper is tight against its mated surface again.

Sherrick I just got this a month ago no fires yet.More pix, more questions.Grates over rotating grates.Coal stove or wood?Rar flue connected at bottom and middle of back of stove.At bottom no passages into stove just a 2" door at back maybe cleanout?Is it a base burner?Inside of door "gas Burner" What is that about? thanks for any replies

Jim,
Those are both wood burning grates (the top round piece above the bar grates ) and if you want to use coal, you remove that piece and use just the bar grates below. Nice that you got the stove with both so that you can use wood in the not so cold seasons when you want some heat and swap over to coal when you are going full time winter with it.

The pipe in the back is called an indirect backpipe. Should have a manifold and damper in there. You start it off open to direct exhaust the gasses out "direct" to the stove pipe, and once it's up to temp close the damper and the gasses flow down to the bottom, up the other side and out the stove pipe to the chimney. It just lengthens the flame path and keeps more heat inside the house versus up the chimney. I can't see the other side of that back pipe where the damper handle would be? Sometimes the guts (splitter manifold and damper) are missing. You can still use it without them, it's just not quite as efficient.

Question for you. Is there a plate for the front of those bar grates? Usually the crank ends poke through a plate that holds them from moving laterally. So you can rotate them with the handle and they revolve without any lateral movement. It looks like they are just laying there on the frame?
Also you obviously need some mica glass to fix up your door (easy fix). The gas burner thing just means that there is a vent or damper there (on the front side) to add some air and burn off the volatile coal gases. Used to avoid puffbacks.