Glenwood No 9 Base Burner-(Hopefully) a Few Photos

Learn the ins and outs of designs that date back to the turn of the last century. Whether you are looking to restore an antique stove or have questions about modern reproductions you'll find the answers to your questions here.
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nortcan
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Post Wed. Dec. 21, 2011 11:19 pm

Will, like you told me in a previous post, the shaking method on mine needs some time to shake the grates for the best results. Seems like the outer round grate grinds the ash very well. But too much is not good and not enough is also not good.


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echos67
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Stove/Furnace Make: Glenwood No. 6.
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Post Thu. Dec. 22, 2011 6:48 am

I can believe it is easier to run 2 stoves easy as opposed as 1 running hard. The #6 seems very forgiving and long burn times are a given from what I have seen from running mine a few days before summer arrived here again :lol: , 60* again here today.

What is the best way to replace the small spring on a secondary air control or primary for that matter without destroying the little cow-bell style keeper.
Do you just wiggle it from both sides back and forth until it comes off ?

Also on the grate replacement, it looks like a #6 has a grate assembly that slides out to replace the grates. There is one gear "B" that will not allow the entire grate assembly to be removed as a whole. Do I remove all the gears to get the assembly out or just the one gear lettered "B" ? I am looking to replace the 2 center grates "B" and "C".

Thanks for any help Will
Keith V
Glenwood No. 6

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wsherrick
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Post Thu. Dec. 22, 2011 7:32 am

echos67 wrote:I can believe it is easier to run 2 stoves easy as opposed as 1 running hard. The #6 seems very forgiving and long burn times are a given from what I have seen from running mine a few days before summer arrived here again :lol: , 60* again here today.

What is the best way to replace the small spring on a secondary air control or primary for that matter without destroying the little cow-bell style keeper.
Do you just wiggle it from both sides back and forth until it comes off ?

Also on the grate replacement, it looks like a #6 has a grate assembly that slides out to replace the grates. There is one gear "B" that will not allow the entire grate assembly to be removed as a whole. Do I remove all the gears to get the assembly out or just the one gear lettered "B" ? I am looking to replace the 2 center grates "B" and "C".

Thanks for any help Will
It is a delicate process to replace the spring in the damper, but; I think you probably possess the finesse to do it. The pin that goes through the assembly is peened onto the back side of the door. You must heat the back part up and drive out the pin with a nail punch. After you get that out the whole assembly comes apart and you can replace the spring. After you put it back together re-peen it tight to the door. Make sure you get a strong, durable spring. You don't want to have to do a replacement ever again.

The grates are easy. Remove the dust cover and the grates just slide out frame and all. You can just remove any of the individual grates you need to, then you can take out the cotter pins that hold the gears on.
Attachments
023.JPG
Remove this cover, then take out grates

lobsterman
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Post Thu. Dec. 22, 2011 8:13 am

echo--
Let me know how you make out with that spring. My secondary air on top is loose, but it I do not mind it the way it is, still opens and closes OK, in fact you can move it with bare fingers even hot, may not if it was tight and hot.
Ah, the B and C grates are always the ones to go. I replaced mine this summer... speaking of which, part of the beauty of the No. 6 is that I am running it right through the warm weather (why? because it is still 40s at night) shutting down the primaries fully. Hums along on low without much coal use. I have 218 on the body right now with 110 on the pipe. Full load of coal, blue flames, and air all closed up. I am sure my stove is not even as tight as William's who has completely resembled his. Still the primary air vents give remarkable control. There is big difference between closed and open 1/8 inch or even 1/16 inch.
IMG_0530.JPG
IMG_0529.JPG

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wsherrick
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Post Thu. Dec. 22, 2011 11:34 am

lobsterman wrote:echo--
Let me know how you make out with that spring. My secondary air on top is loose, but it I do not mind it the way it is, still opens and closes OK, in fact you can move it with bare fingers even hot, may not if it was tight and hot.
Ah, the B and C grates are always the ones to go. I replaced mine this summer... speaking of which, part of the beauty of the No. 6 is that I am running it right through the warm weather (why? because it is still 40s at night) shutting down the primaries fully. Hums along on low without much coal use. I have 218 on the body right now with 110 on the pipe. Full load of coal, blue flames, and air all closed up. I am sure my stove is not even as tight as William's who has completely resembled his. Still the primary air vents give remarkable control. There is big difference between closed and open 1/8 inch or even 1/16 inch.
IMG_0530.JPG
IMG_0529.JPG
Aren't you glad you got a Glenwood. Coal Stove Easy Street is a nice place to live.

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echos67
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Post Thu. Dec. 22, 2011 1:07 pm

Lobsterman not a problem, I will find some time very soon to give it a replacement spring.

Will, I was afraid you were going to say that but when I remove my dust cover the gear on the "B" grate hits the front and does not allow the assembly to drop down and then slide out, I will look more closely at it this evening to see if the tab is bent causing this or maybe the gear is not back far enough. Free time is a precious comodity right now, everytime I try to get into something there is this female voice asking me to do something else :shock:
Keith V
Glenwood No. 6

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wsherrick
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Post Thu. Dec. 22, 2011 1:33 pm

The frame that holds all the grates comes straight out, just pull the frame holding the grates and the whole thing comes sliding out in one piece, gears and all. You don't need to remove the gears to get the grate out. The grate bars just rest in the grooves made for them, just lift them out with the gears attached. I don't know if I am missing something that you are trying to ask me.

lobsterman
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Post Thu. Dec. 22, 2011 4:39 pm

echo,
I think you will find when you pull the whole assembly forward just a bit, if the B gear hits you can reach back with your hand underneath and tilt the back of the whole tray up and get clearance to slide it out, or if that does not work just tilt up the B grate from the back.


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wsherrick
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Coal Size/Type: Chestnut, Stove Size
Location: High In The Poconos

Post Thu. Dec. 22, 2011 5:09 pm

lobsterman wrote:echo,
I think you will find when you pull the whole assembly forward just a bit, if the B gear hits you can reach back with your hand underneath and tilt the back of the whole tray up and get clearance to slide it out, or if that does not work just tilt up the B grate from the back.
He should be able to jiggle it up or down enough to get it to past the clearance point. The grate is either not seated properly or it is really warped.

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echos67
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Post Thu. Dec. 22, 2011 5:59 pm

The grate gears have room for 2 cotter pins that hold them on straight, my "B" gear was missing a cotter pin and the other that was still in there was undersized.
This allowed the gear to tilt forward and not being used in who knows how long it stuck that way. With the gear being in the tilted posistion and with the grate turned only a certain way (whats the chances) it would not allow the assembly to come out. I turned the grates and the whole assembly came out as pretty as you please. I took it out and replaced both the center grates and checked all cotter pins. Maybe had I tried tilting it like Lobersterman suggested I bet it would have cleared and came out.

Basically a stupid mistake on my part for being in a rush because of interuptions.

Thank You Guys
Keith V
Glenwood No. 6

lobsterman
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby, 1980 Fully restored by Larry Trainer
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Chubby Jr, early model with removable grates
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Post Thu. Dec. 22, 2011 6:29 pm

Welcome to Coal Easy Street!

stovehospital
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Post Thu. Dec. 22, 2011 8:01 pm

The old stove under the old car is a 114 modern oak, I think. It is all done and ready to go.

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g13nw00d-man
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Post Thu. Dec. 22, 2011 9:19 pm

Lobsterman,

$20 bucks says you can lower your temp to 150 to 200 by leaving the primary closed and opening the secondary wide open. This will divert the draft over the fire more, on the days that are warmer.

lobsterman
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby, 1980 Fully restored by Larry Trainer
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Chubby Jr, early model with removable grates
Location: Cape Cod

Post Fri. Dec. 23, 2011 8:34 am

Agreed, I use secondary air quite often... but maybe not so much temperature difference as you say if in base heater mode.

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SteveZee
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Post Fri. Dec. 23, 2011 9:21 am

I use the trick quite a bit too with the Herald. It's good for about 50-100 degrees lower temps. The check damper is good for about the same too on warmer days. If I know we got some warm temps coming I'll not shake down so hard either and leave a little more ash.


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