I Have My Base Burner (BB)

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nortcan
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Post Thu. Mar. 17, 2011 10:35 am

freetown fred wrote:Just an old guys thoughts,but, I think sometimes, you speak er betterer then me ;)
nortcan wrote:Fred, one day I will (hope to) master English as well as you do.
You know Fred, here in the province of Quebec we don't have the opportunity to use English very often and I really think that is a bad thing. With English you can go about evrywhere in the world. With the separatists here, English is supposed to be a big threat for the French, you can see the joke...
salutations mon ami des Etats Unis
nortcan


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freetown fred
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Post Thu. Mar. 17, 2011 1:58 pm

I lived around the Gatineau Park(Ottawa) way back when & got to go to Old Quebec City a few times--NOBODY spoke Hillbilly, plus, I got the feeling that most of the people there would have preferred that we stay in Ottawa ;)
freetown fred wrote:Just an old guys thoughts,but, I think sometimes, you speak er betterer then me ;)
nortcan wrote:Fred, one day I will (hope to) master English as well as you do.
You know Fred, here in the province of Quebec we don't have the opportunity to use English very often and I really think that is a bad thing. With English you can go about evrywhere in the world. With the separatists here, English is supposed to be a big threat for the French, you can see the joke...
salutations mon ami des Etats Unis
nortcan

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nortcan
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Post Wed. Mar. 23, 2011 7:29 pm

Hi. As you can see on the photos, the doors hinges are bent. I hesitate before trying to get them straight because they are???welded??? casted???. If I lift the doors there is lot of play. I have small brass bushings I can place into the holes and have a nice fit but the hinges are too bent to tolarate a tight fit. I'm scare to break the hinges if I try to bend them straight. Could they be from one piece or press fit? I was planning to bore the holes round but with the inserts it would be ok. These pins/hinges are quite small in diameter 1/8". Someone has good ideas?
I hope I explained my question correctly!
thanks, nortcan
Attachments
DSC02962.JPG
Bent hinges
DSC02963.JPG
DSC02966.JPG
Machined piece???

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freetown fred
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Post Wed. Mar. 23, 2011 7:46 pm

Now remember, I'm just an old farmer. I would put the door in a vise & take a Burnza-matic & heat the pins & tap gently w/ a large ball peen or small 2 1/2 lb sledge--gently but solidly being the key there. It doesn't seem that you need to straighten that much--I'd definitely not drill the hinges on the stove. The door is cast but pins are steel pins.

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VigIIPeaBurner
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Post Wed. Mar. 23, 2011 7:57 pm

freetown fred wrote:Now remember, I'm just an old farmer. I would lake a Burnza-matic & heat the pins & tap gently w/ a large ball peen or small 2 1/2 lb sledge--gently but solidly being the key there. It doesn't seem that you need to straighten that much--I'd definitely not drill the hinges on the stove.
FF, do you want nortcan to try to remove the pin by heating the pin tab (that holds the pin) and tapping? Or do you suggest he heat the pin and try to straighten it by tapping on the high side wile bucking-up the other side of the pin?

nortcan, was that door originally plated? I ask because it appears the pin is pressed into a blind hole. If it's pressed into a through hole and it's been plated over then painted, it could have hidden the top of the through hole. Knowing this fact could help decide how to proceed forward. I'd be leery breaking off the tab by trying to drive it out. If it's steel there's several ways to try, all described on this forum somewhere :|

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freetown fred
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Post Wed. Mar. 23, 2011 8:03 pm

I'm thinking if he got it hot-- RED or real close-- it's only 1/8" it should straighten pretty easily--but again--gently yet firmly tap the pin while it's in the door---GENTLY

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nortcan
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Post Wed. Mar. 23, 2011 8:06 pm

Fred, I was also born on a farm and it's a very good place to make experiences and learn how to wok on a lot of thigs. Thanks

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nortcan
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Post Wed. Mar. 23, 2011 8:08 pm

Hi Vig ll. The doors were not pleated when the stove was new, many years ago...thanks
nortcan


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wsherrick
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Post Wed. Mar. 23, 2011 8:43 pm

The door needs NEW hinge pins. Lobsterman had to replace the pins in his Glenwood No 6 and after he did he returned the door to its original air tight fit. You might ask him how he did it. The pins are steel. One way to get old pins out is to GENTLY heat the iron tab that hold the pin and let it cool. Do this several times. Get a pair of vise grips and GENTLY twist the pin while the iron is hot and it should come out.

Another thing you should do is call Bryants where you got the stove and ask them how they change pins. I am sure they will be more than happy to help you to make sure you don't break anything.

The pins are supposed to be changed out when they have worn. It hopefully won't be too hard to do. Just be careful.

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nortcan
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Post Wed. Mar. 23, 2011 10:16 pm

Maybe I didn't explained correctly my point. The pins look to be not worn-out. They are just bent. But like William said it's probably better to change them cause it seems they are just fixed-in or pressed in. But having the holes more oval than round doesn't help for the play in the door assembly. Fitting my brass inserts is quite a job(I will if there is no other solution) so I wonder if there are ready to use inserts for these venerable old-timers?
I apologize: I did told you that I was supposed not to work on this new stove but that was too much asking to me. lol

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Poconoeagle
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Post Wed. Mar. 23, 2011 10:18 pm

oxy-acetylene torch with a brazing tip adjusted hot so as to heat the cast iron QUICKLY and not transfer that heat to the steel pin and then the vise grip twist thing.

not to hot... not red.. dull red..... like getting the nut hot on a exhaust manifold y-pipe connection. thing is tho that if you heat slowly then both metals heat together and usually end up breaking the steel as it has more carbon and becomes brittle...

take the door to a good auto mechanic????? a guy who fixes ........fords??? 8-)

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nortcan
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Post Wed. Mar. 23, 2011 10:26 pm

Poconoeagle wrote:oxy-acetylene torch with a brazing tip adjusted hot so as to heat the cast iron QUICKLY and not transfer that heat to the steel pin and then the vise grip twist thing.

not to hot... not red.. dull red..... like getting the nut hot on a exhaust manifold y-pipe connection. thing is tho that if you heat slowly then both metals heat together and usually end up breaking the steel as it has more carbon and becomes brittle...

take the door to a good auto mechanic????? a guy who fixes ........fords??? 8-)
Very good infos Pocono but the problem is a Ford doesn't need to be fixed very often.
OK, back to the pins. When replacing the new pins I probably reverse the process? Do you think that a Mapp gaz hand torch could do the job?
Thanks

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Poconoeagle
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Post Wed. Mar. 23, 2011 10:35 pm

Well I would get the vise grips set correctly and at the ready first. concentrate the heat on the cast iron and don't expect it to get red or close to it with mapp... approx 16-1800 degrees....with the new mapp blend..

thats ok tho cause all you need to do is heat it a bit as all your attempting is to "swell" it a little bit

put the torch down and clip on the grips and twist back and forth...

you will know right away if there's movement... if so good! a bit more heat and further twisting and pushing!

if no movement then wait and let it cool... we used to be able to shoot a little freon on the pin to shrink it some but Al Gore says no!!

he must drive a ford!!!! a new one every year so he don't have to suffer thier repairs!!

p.s. real nice stove you have there! :)

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nortcan
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Post Wed. Mar. 23, 2011 10:45 pm

Thanks Pocono. As soon as I get a few minutes I will try that.
Just sent an email to Bryant Stove to ask if they have new pins. If they don't, hum???

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wsherrick
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Post Thu. Mar. 24, 2011 3:03 am

New hinge pins are easy to get. You can probably get them at a good hardware store.


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