I Have My Base Burner (BB)

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nortcan
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Post by nortcan » Sat. Mar. 12, 2011 3:32 pm

Tim wrote:Congrats Nortcan!!!
That is a pretty NEW BRIDE ya got there, hope she treats you well
Thank Tim. The biggest problem I have with my New Bride is because I'm not sure of here origins...She's very quiet in the small living room.


 
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nortcan
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Post by nortcan » Sat. Mar. 12, 2011 3:35 pm

ashburnham55 wrote:Beautiful stove Nortcan!
Thank you and also thanks for the researches you made previouly to find me a stove.
I think this Bride could make me happy...Still in the Honey Moon time

 
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wsherrick
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Post by wsherrick » Sat. Mar. 12, 2011 10:30 pm

nortcan wrote:
wsherrick wrote:I would name it Black Maria. When you decide to get the stove re nickeled. I would start with the finial first. Any way I can't wait to see and hear how this stove operates.
And yes, Nortcan is now an offical member of the base burner society.

Well, the competition is getting hard for this BB's name.
Someone having a plating co. here told me a few weeks ago that it woul cost around $350. + for the finial re nickelling. But at that time he didn' saw the part.

Will, have you ever burnt a stove having the same fire pot desing? I mean a fire pot having these sort of fingers at the bottom of it?
Is it an obligation to have these fingers?
What I imagined is when shaking the grates and rotating the round grate, lot of ash dust would get the micas very dirty???

Also do you think that it could be possible to make a lining in the fire pot to protect it? I had so many bad experiences with my previous Vermont C. having fire directly in contat with the cast iron surfaces so I don't want to see that again in this stove.
Thanks for my Official base burner society membership
nortcan
My Stanley Argand stove has a fire pot just like that. It was a common design and many stoves had it. The serrated bottom allows for air to be evenly distributed around the base of the fire. Also with the round shaker portion of the grate this feature allows for a controlled amount of ash to be shaken out of the fire for times when you want to create a very slow burn with an ash layer on the grates. I use this method to easily get 14 hour burns out of the Stanley Argand by allowing just a little bit of air to enter around the perimeter of the firepot. The fire lasts and lasts and the stove runs cool enough to rest your bare hand on it for a long time, yet the fire can be livened up at any time by shaking the center portion of the grates. These stoves are so versatile and allow for many different modes of running them.
As far as the ceramic liner for the fire pot. Try this link below. I am going to try the product this man sells when my Glenwood needs its liner replaced at some point. Take a look.
Last edited by wsherrick on Sat. Apr. 01, 2017 3:40 am, edited 2 times in total.
Reason: <removed dead link>

 
buck24
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Post by buck24 » Sat. Mar. 12, 2011 11:25 pm

Rutland makes a Castable Refractory Cement which withstands temps up to 2200 degrees. Used to make firebrick or different shapes needed. Check it out on thier website.

 
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nortcan
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Post by nortcan » Sun. Mar. 13, 2011 12:56 pm

Thanks Will. and buck24. I check that as soon as I get a minute for it. Actually, I'm playing with a puzzle...

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Which one???

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nortcan
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Post by nortcan » Mon. Mar. 14, 2011 10:05 pm

Hi, photos from the progression. I hope the Bride will love here new sleeping place.

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hard wood cut

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DSC02884.JPG

plywood installed

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DSC02885.JPG

Tiles in place

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nortcan
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Post by nortcan » Mon. Mar. 14, 2011 10:12 pm

DOUG wrote:You are teasing us with that light inside! :drool: I can't believe we may have to wait until next season to see her in her glory. That is okay, do it right the first time getting your chimney together. I can see she is going to be well loved. :love: :inlove:
A little bit late but...
Thanks Doug for the good words


 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Tue. Mar. 15, 2011 8:36 am

come on nortcan, round those corners. ;)

 
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I'm On Fire
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Post by I'm On Fire » Tue. Mar. 15, 2011 2:58 pm

Why plywood? Why not cement board? Are you planning on cementing the tiles down?

 
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nortcan
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Post by nortcan » Tue. Mar. 15, 2011 9:34 pm

freetown fred wrote:come on nortcan, round those corners. ;)
Please Fred, it has been so bothering to make them square, don't ask me to re-cut that hard wood floor! LOL
Salutations from the North

 
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nortcan
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Post by nortcan » Tue. Mar. 15, 2011 9:47 pm

I'm On Fire wrote:Why plywood? Why not cement board? Are you planning on cementing the tiles down?
I used plywood (3/8") to thicken the base and with the tiles on it, the surface will be the same height as the floor's one. Having the sliding door arriving so close to the tiles, I wanted no step on the floor. To please the insurrances agent, I will make a steel bottom heat shield with a shield insert (double bottom) under my BB (OH-Oh-OH)
nortcan

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Tue. Mar. 15, 2011 10:08 pm

Gotcha ;) It looks real good nortcan.It'll look alot better with the Queen on the hearth.
nortcan wrote:
freetown fred wrote:come on nortcan, round those corners. ;)
Please Fred, it has been so bothering to make them square, don't ask me to re-cut that hard wood floor! LOL
Salutations from the North

 
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nortcan
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Post by nortcan » Tue. Mar. 15, 2011 10:20 pm

The grout job done and still square...for my friend.

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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Wed. Mar. 16, 2011 9:09 am

nortcan, how come the window heights are so different?? was there a wall there? OOOOH, that's a slider to the right?? now I got it ;)

 
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I'm On Fire
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Post by I'm On Fire » Wed. Mar. 16, 2011 9:42 am

Fred,

My house is the same way. In my son's room and in my kitchen. The height of the ceiling from the floor to the bottom of the window is 19". But when you go outside and look it's 36". Its weird.


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