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Your stove was cast in May. The number 5 after the year, 1909 is for the month of manufacture. My stove was made in June of that year so our stoves are probably part of the same production run. I find that amazing after 102 years later!

wsherrick wrote:Your stove was cast in May. The number 5 after the year, 1909 is for the month of manufacture. My stove was made in June of that year so our stoves are probably part of the same production run. I find that amazing after 102 years later!

I also have the number 5 after the year. How did you find out about the numbering system? This means this one and my stove were made the same month...

dj

dlj wrote:

wsherrick wrote:Your stove was cast in May. The number 5 after the year, 1909 is for the month of manufacture. My stove was made in June of that year so our stoves are probably part of the same production run. I find that amazing after 102 years later!

I also have the number 5 after the year. How did you find out about the numbering system? This means this one and my stove were made the same month...

dj

My stove has the number 6 after the year. So it is a good guess on my part. When I saw that his stove had a five and mine has a six, I figured it has to be the month.

Here is a source for new stove barrels and hinge pins and other items. This man also sells register plates if you are interested in burning wood in your Glenwood at some point.

http://www.roundoakman.com/parts.htm

Great score...CONGRATS!!!

wsherrick wrote:That secondary air ring is a critical part of the stove's design. I am sure that Doug at Barnstable or Emery at Antique Stove Hospital have these parts or have them made.

William, I don't think I'd call it critical. The stove will run just fine without it. There are only two things to be aware of:

1) if the ceramic lining doesn't go high enough to cover the air feed in from the front plate where the holes under the front door feed that secondary air ring, then the holes should be plugged somehow. Either plug up the two sides of that front plate, or plug the holes themselves.

2) If the ceramic liner doesn't go up to the depth of that front plate, your fire pot is now lower. You shouldn't really go into the sheet metal area with your coal in the fire, it will just burn out your sheet metal side. I'd put in some more castable ceramic and bring the firebox level up to where it should be if I couldn't find the ring.

dj

wsherrick wrote:Your stove was cast in May. The number 5 after the year, 1909 is for the month of manufacture. My stove was made in June of that year so our stoves are probably part of the same production run. I find that amazing after 102 years later!

I am sure you are correct, I was thinking this was logical before you mentioned it. Also on the inside of my small flap to access the the grates I have the lettering GBH 1909 47, I wonder if it is the 47th casting of that series.

lobsterman wrote:

wsherrick wrote:Your stove was cast in May. The number 5 after the year, 1909 is for the month of manufacture. My stove was made in June of that year so our stoves are probably part of the same production run. I find that amazing after 102 years later!

I am sure you are correct, I was thinking this was logical before you mentioned it. Also on the inside of my small flap to access the the grates I have the lettering GBH 1909 47, I wonder if it is the 47th casting of that series.

I don't think so, I have the exact some number inside my flap. We couldn't both have the 47th casting LOL

I hate to be the skeptic here, but I'm not so sure about the dating thing. I think it might be a mold ID number. I'm not convinced it's actually tied to a date...

dj

dlj wrote:

wsherrick wrote:That secondary air ring is a critical part of the stove's design. I am sure that Doug at Barnstable or Emery at Antique Stove Hospital have these parts or have them made.

William, I don't think I'd call it critical. The stove will run just fine without it. There are only two things to be aware of:

1) if the ceramic lining doesn't go high enough to cover the air feed in from the front plate where the holes under the front door feed that secondary air ring, then the holes should be plugged somehow. Either plug up the two sides of that front plate, or plug the holes themselves.

2) If the ceramic liner doesn't go up to the depth of that front plate, your fire pot is now lower. You shouldn't really go into the sheet metal area with your coal in the fire, it will just burn out your sheet metal side. I'd put in some more castable ceramic and bring the firebox level up to where it should be if I couldn't find the ring.

dj

For mine the cast liner comes about 1/4 inch short of the lip on the top of the fire pot which must be what the inner air ring sits on. I tried to show this in the attached photo. The front piece with the air holes seems to be in good shape. I actually would not worry about a few pieces of heaped coal touching the barrel because it is not actually going to burn there, sort of like coal in a magazine. Anyway I plan to track down that ring.

dlj wrote:

lobsterman wrote: I am sure you are correct, I was thinking this was logical before you mentioned it. Also on the inside of my small flap to access the the grates I have the lettering GBH 1909 47, I wonder if it is the 47th casting of that series.

I don't think so, I have the exact some number inside my flap. We couldn't both have the 47th casting LOL

I hate to be the skeptic here, but I'm not so sure about the dating thing. I think it might be a mold ID number. I'm not convinced it's actually tied to a date...

dj

Well with a few more stove numbers we would decode it pretty quickly. I think it is cool at least that we very clearly know the year of manufacture. There is a guy in CT that just bought one, maybe he will join in the discussion. Also I will ask Doug at Barnstable when I see him this coming week.

lobsterman wrote: For mine the cast liner comes about 1/4 inch short of the lip on the top of the fire pot which must be what the inner air ring sits on. I tried to show this in the attached photo. The front piece with the air holes seems to be in good shape. I actually would not worry about a few pieces of heaped coal touching the barrel because it is not actually going to burn there, sort of like coal in a magazine. Anyway I plan to track down that ring.

Yes, I agree, looks like the ceramic would make a perfect shelf for the ring. Now that ring is about 3 1/2" wide. It comes above the bottom of the door. So my fire box is probably 4" deeper than yours, that's quite a bit of coal. I heap above that level when I filling for a long run...

By the way, if you find a source for that ring that is casting them new, I'd love to get the contact info...

dj

As I look closer, there are hidden part numbers everywhere. Inside the base heater just below the indirect damper flap it says G 1909 12, inside the crown it says G 1909 49, inside the upper door GBH 6 1909 26, the boot rails are 1909 37, the top ring is 1909 51, etc.

i think the numbers are the stoves part numbers .

mason coal burner wrote:i think the numbers are the stoves part numbers .

Clearly, that is what we just discovered when the 47 matched.

Another place where my stove may need some attention is on the ash door. The springs on the air vents are nice and tight but on the left edge of the door where the handle is, it looks like the seal is not perfect (pretty tight, though). I tried to capture this in a picture. Part of this may be corrected with new pins. Part of it is due to a tiny chip in the ridge of the removable plate for grate access. DJ and William I am curious how perfectly tight your ash door fits.