Newbie Questions About Old Time Kitchen Stove

OK, I am a newbie to this so I will probably ask alot of not so bright questions so forgive me but I am sure there is a wealth of information judging by the posts I have read through. As you can see from the picture, I have a Dickson Regal stove, model D208L. It has been restored to working order and I have fired it up with both wood and coal a couple of times. My issues have been that I really haven't got a good handle on operating this stove, every move I make (i.e. damper adjustments, etc..) seem to be the wrong choices. I am familiar with operating a more up to date coal stove and they are fairly intuitive on how to make and sustain a good fire/coal fire. This one does not seem intuitive, like I said, all the standard things I would do for a coal stove does not work with this one. I am hoping that maybe someone has some experience operating this type or model of stove. Any help would be appreciated. A little more info. The stove pipe 6" has a manual damper in the pipe, and at the base of the pipe where it nears the stove top there is an adjustable damper (can be seen in the picture), on the left side above the fire box there is a sliding adjustable "damper" and of course underneath the firebox on the left side there is an adjustable damper. I am hoping someone else has some experience out there to help me. Thanks in advance.

The only not so bright questions are the ones you don't ask--by the welcome--I had one similar to that in Vt. 7 I just continued to play with it until I got it right--MAYBE--but, she worked good--I forget what I did w/ the vent you are referring to--I think I kept it slightly cracked---I don't think I would with coal---I only burnt wood in mine--about the most informative avenue back when was Mother Earth News magazine--I only had a manual damper & like I said she worked real well after I figured out the combination--you're the only one that can see what the stove is doing--play with it but,be safe--if you're going to go the coal route,just slowly add it to your wood fire--does yours have grates underneath? mine did not. Have a Happy New Year my friend----hang tough,you'll get replies on this stove

The damper on the stove pipe just before getting to the stove is a kind of draft control. To start out, I'd keep it closed. The two dampers on the side of the stove, the sliding ones that go to the fire box, are your fire controls. The top one you should play with more for wood, the bottom one you play more for coal.

You probably won't have too many problems burning wood in that stove, except the fire won't last real long without putting more wood in it.

If it was me, I'd start burning wood and get a nice wood fire going, real nice bed of coals, get the stove nice and toasty. Then after I'd played a bit with the wood until I was comfortable with the stove controls, I'd add in burning coal.

How much stove experience do you have with other kinds of stoves?

Freetown Fred is certainly right in that you are the one looking at the stove so only you will know how it's responding.

I'd need more specific questions with what the stove is doing and such to give much more advice...

dj

I have a Glenwood kitche stove - sounds pretty similar as far as controls are concerned.

I have basically 4 controls -

1. in pipe damper. Generally I don't move this around too much. Open it up when I am starting and need a good draft, close it down some for normal operation, and sometimes I close it almost completely for a long run at night. The damper plates in my in the pipe damper has some holes in it so even if you close it completely it gets a small draft.

2. Back of the stove draft directer. This should be open when starting as it increases the draft and allows the gasses to go directly up the flue. Close it once the fire is going and the flue gasses ciruclate around the oven before departing out the bottom back. This is what allows the stove to put out so much heat.

3. Top, over the fire, check damper. During normal use I have this nearly completely shut or completely shut (I open it a smidge to allow the top gasses to burn off properly after loading). Before I go to bed at night I open this up. It allows most of the draft to be pulled over the fire and not through the fire giving a longer burn.

4. Bottom, below the fire. damper. This is the one I open and close dependand upon how much heat I want, and how hot I want the oven.

If I tend it in the morning and in the evening and keep a slower buring fire I can keep the oven temp around 225 or so all day. Puts out pretty good heat, but not blazing. If I tend it a bit more frequently during the day - maybe one or two other times - I can easily keep the oven around 350 and it puts out prodigious heat.

I have enjoyed using the Glenwood for the past few years, it was my Grandmothers so there is a sentimental reason, but it is also really nice to have the warm kitchen that it always provides.

Oh and I am using nut coal, blashak bagged stuff. Seems fine. We cook on the stove sometimes, it can be a real joy. Not often do we use the oven, but a baked potato or some other items occasionally find their way in there.

Hopefully this answered some of your questions.

StelradCoal is correct in his instructions. I have an Andes kitchen stove, but it is not in use at this time. The controls on it are similar to what he describes.

Guys, thank you. I knew I could count on you. Stelrad, I appreciate your input it seems like you have the same controls as I do, this should be very helpful.

You need a manual damper on these types of stoves because they are not airtight, actually far from airtight. You have underfire air inlets for coal and underfire and overfire air inlets for wood. They must be interesting stoves to run. I don't have a chimney for my stove (yet). Mine is a coal/gas combo, it is an interesting idea-having a fire burning on one side of the stove next to a bunch of gas valves.

RBL - How is the stove running??

My stove is fun to run. It can take a bit more tending, or it can be pretty hands free.

As was mentioned, the manual damper is needed due to the leaky nature of the stove. Also, remember to use the check draft above the fire for the coal. I use it a bit after loading to burn of the volitile gasses, then also when I need a long burn. At night, for example, I will pop the top damper open and close the bottom so that the draft from the chimney is just sucking over the fire air and not much pushes through the coals. Allows the coal bed to last the night.

There deffinately is a learning curve about what settings work best. Outside temp, inside temp, heat needs etc all make for differing adjustments but it really is a beautiful, useful item.

My Grandmother ran a similar stove in her Polish kitchen for 30+ years. My cousin and his mom also lived there. If cousin Jack was to lazy to bank the coal before bed and the fire would go out. She could really swear in Polish. Poor Jack would get chased out if the kitchen. It was a funny scene to behold sometimes. Jack was a very big boy for his age and Grandma was small, but quick.

RBL - How is the stove running??

No way of knowing since he hasn't been here since 12/31/10.

Smoker858 wrote:My Grandmother ran a similar stove in her Polish kitchen for 30+ years. My cousin and his mom also lived there. If cousin Jack was to lazy to bank the coal before bed and the fire would go out. She could really swear in Polish. Poor Jack would get chased out if the kitchen. It was a funny scene to behold sometimes. Jack was a very big boy for his age and Grandma was small, but quick.

Thanks for the post! It brought a smile to my face as I remembered my own grandmother who also didn't put up with much from her grandchildren. I'll tell you what, you always stayed focused on your task when within her arm reach. Lisa

Ha, the stove I'm running is my grandmothers old kitchen stove, though it was relegated to the basement by the time I came around. Lots of good food cooked on it in its day, Slovak food in this stoves case!