Replacement Cylinder for City Glenwood Stove

Do any of you rebuild your own stoves? I need a new cylinder for my city glenwood but can't afford to pay the guy at the stove hospital or other place to do it for me. Has anyone done this? What gauge steel and are there any pros or cons for different gauge steel. I've rebuilt many stoves and I'm comfortable doing it - I just don't know where to get the cylinder made up or what gauge steel to use even if I could find someone.

Thanks,

Mike

What information did he tell you about the City # 14. I'd like to learn what he said.
As far as the pipe is concerned, find a sheet metal shop in your area and take the pipe to them. Have them make a new one that is the same gauge as the original. They are made out of rolled steel. It can't be that big of a job? How much did he want to charge you for a new one?

I told him that I've rebuilt my own stoves and just wanted to purchase the cylinder - he was a little rude and just replied that he doesn't sell parts and that I'd have to take the stove in and he'd tell me what I need. He said I'd also need a new firebox, and I agree with that - but all I want is the cylinder - I can recast the refractory firebox myself. I asked him for a ballpark figure and he never responded. Maybe I just got him on a bad day, but I didn't get a good feeling from him. I would just like to get my stove up and running.

Thanks,

Mike

Who was it that you talked to? Was it Emery at Antique Stove Hsopital or somebody else? There is more than one way to skin a cat. Again, try to find a sheet metal shop to do the work. Take the pipe to them and I'm sure you can get some one to make one for a reasonable cost. I have done that lots of times.
Anyway, I want to see the City #14 up and running and hear how it performs.
Please keep me updated on your progress.

Yes it was Emery. I'll call around to sheet metal shops. How do I determine the gauge of steel that was used - or should I just bring in the old one and let them determine it? Anyway - I have one more hurdle to deal with once I get the stove back together - the flue pipe for the stove will be higher than the top of my fireplace opening - does anyone have any suggestions for getting around that or am I SOL?

I like my Godin stove - but it's always burned more coal than I think it should - I can burn a 40lb bag in 24 hours - even with it turned down very low - it doesn't overheat, and does produce more heat when I need it, but I still think 40 lbs in 24 hours in this type of weather is a lot. I've tried several things - manual damper - readjusting the barometric damper with a draft meter, and even after rebuilding it - it still burns too much coal, so I like the cylinder shape stove for ease of starting and shaking down, so I'm looking forward to firing up the City Glenwood #14.

You will have to put a thimble in the chimney above the mantle piece. It is not wise to turn the stove pipe downward after it comes off of the stove collar.
It is not that big of a job to do that. I have done it in several places I have lived. It can look attractive if you do it correctly.
Yes, again; take the old cylinder to what ever place you find that will make the new one. They will need the old, original one to be able to copy it correctly. Just tell them to make it the same gauge as the original.
By the way, the Glenwood will be a lot easier to use and have a much higher degree of efficiency than the Godin. You will get a lot more bang for your coal buck, plus the Glenwood is able to burn several sizes of coal. Your choices will be greater.

Thanks for all the info - I'll keep you posted.

Mike

Your quite welcome. Please feel free to ask any other questions you might have. Good luck with the stove and I really want to hear how it's coming along. Remember, show us lots of pictures.

By the way, you need to pat yourself on the back for being smart enough to buy a Glenwood Stove. There is one other person on the Forum besides myself who has a Glenwood and we have been talking about the superiority of these stoves for over a year and as far as I know you are the only person besides us who has obtained one.
Welcome to the Glenwood Stove Society.

Thanks - for the welcome. I think I can get a few more Glenwoods that need to be rebuilt - I'll have to check - if so they'll be for sale.

Mike

Fixing them up and selling them is fine as long as you keep one for yourself. Now, if you find a Glenwood Baseheater or a Glenwood No 111 you should keep it for yourself. Those are the top of the line stoves.

OK - I found a guy that will do the sheet metal but he says he can only weld the joint - do you think that is ok? If not - what kind of joint to I ask for where the 2 ends meet? Mine looks like the way they join stove pipe - snap together or whatever they call it. If I know what to call that type of joint - I can ask for it if the welding is not good.

Thanks,

Mike

My Chubby cylinder is welded. Don't see why it wouldn't work for you. It'd be a damn big machine to put a fold ala Pittsburgh lock onto a piece of 1/8" cold steel.

I don't see anything wrong with welding the seam as long as it is well done and neatly executed. I would make sure the gauge of the new part is the same as the original one. There is not much room to play with as the tolerances for the grooves that the cylinder fit into are pretty tight.
I don't know the proper name for the folded seam where the two ends meet to form the circle. I'm sure somebody who is a metal expert here will tell us.

How are you coming along with your project?