Base Burner Stoves

wsherrick · Post by **wsherrick** » Tue. Dec. 16, 2014 3:49 pm

talleyman wrote:I've tried taking video with my cell, it just does not do it justice. I will try and borrow an HD Camera from a friend and see if I can get some decent video.

My chimney is double wall up to the ceiling of the first floor, then Class A from there up through the second floor and out the roof (local code requires class A as soon as you penetrate a wall or ceiling). Probabaly 20 ft. total.

Yes, youtube needs some more base burner videos besides mine. I am going to to one on my Crawford 40 this month.
Now on to business.
Take that section of double walled pipe down. Replace with single walled and install a manual pipe damper. That will take care of any draft issues you have. Now the check damper in that stove can be used to slow the fire down to a slow simmer especially when used in conjunction with the pipe damper. Do this. Trust Uncle William on this.

dlj · Post by **dlj** » Tue. Dec. 16, 2014 9:50 pm

Non- issue putting the MPD in the section of pipe you currently have. My MPD is about 6 inches from the exit on my stove. You don't gain much of anything putting it further away - perhaps a bit more chimney pipe somewhat hotter but you won't be able to notice any difference. Only if you were running pipe through another room you want that heat for - been there but it really doesn't do much more than make it a pain to deal with... Put the MPD where it's easiest to work with...

dj

wsherrick · Post by **wsherrick** » Wed. Dec. 17, 2014 2:46 am

dlj wrote:Non- issue putting the MPD in the section of pipe you currently have. My MPD is about 6 inches from the exit on my stove. You don't gain much of anything putting it further away - perhaps a bit more chimney pipe somewhat hotter but you won't be able to notice any difference. Only if you were running pipe through another room you want that heat for - been there but it really doesn't do much more than make it a pain to deal with... Put the MPD where it's easiest to work with...

dj

I agree that short piece of pipe looks like a damper could easily fit there. I thought it would be easier overall to put it in a longer piece of pipe.

BPatrick · Post by **BPatrick** » Wed. Dec. 17, 2014 11:25 am

I'm reading through some really good information here and I wanted to add something...because forum members always do...about check dampeners, and mpd's. I think one of the most important things you can do with any stove is get it as air tight as possible, especially under the fire pot as that's were coal burns. If your airtight underneath, wind gusts aren't going to have as much, if any effect on your draft. My chimney's draft really well so my mpd settings are always the same, I control the fire temp by under fire air under the fire pot. I always have the over fire air holes in the Crawford door open, usually all the way up, and throughout the entire burn process. I get flames throughout the entire burn process and if I want the stove temp hotter, I give it more under fire air. Now the over fire air is allowing the stove to burn off the released gases, and it does make a big difference in temps. I'm an old fire wood guy and I'd have my Lopi Wood stove with the air tubes holding big masses of flames floating about the wood, or gasification, and it made a big difference in the stove temp burning this off instead of sending it up the chimney. I believe in the same idea with coal stoves. No matter what temp I'm running I always want to see flames as it means I'm burning off released gases from the coal and getting my monies worth.

windyhill4.2 · Post by **windyhill4.2** » Wed. Dec. 17, 2014 11:51 am

Continuous flames with anthracite coal ???? I thought when there are visible flames heading for the exhaust that more heat is being lost to the stack. Our Crane seems to run a cooler stack with higher stove top temps when there is no flame, BUT, it's not a baseburner & maybe that is the difference.

talleyman · Post by **talleyman** » Wed. Dec. 17, 2014 12:28 pm

I believe i'm going to take William and Dj's final recommendation of installing my MPD in the existing short section of single wall pipe that I have and leave the double wall section as-is. Cheaper solution.

talleyman · Post by **talleyman** » Wed. Dec. 17, 2014 4:17 pm

Short video of my stove from this morning. Taken with my cellphone in poor lighting conditions. I will post a longer, better-narrated video to youtube as soon as I can get a hold of a good HD camera.

Just hover over the video picture and click the big triangular Play button : [Click "Full Size" at top for better picture]

http://www.screencast.com/t/0iI1o6lxz8KK

Pancho · Post by **Pancho** » Wed. Dec. 17, 2014 6:42 pm

talleyman wrote:Short video of my stove from this morning. Taken with my cellphone in poor lighting conditions. I will post a longer, better-narrated video to youtube as soon as I can get a hold of a good HD camera.

Just hover over the video picture and click the big triangular Play button :

http://www.screencast.com/t/0iI1o6lxz8KK

........WOW.....

Do you have thermometers on the stove?. Wherebouts is it running temp wise?.

Userj8670 · Post by **Userj8670** » Thu. Dec. 18, 2014 12:36 am

Thanks for posting that video! Sure is a gorgeous stove and it provides a beautiful glow!

BPatrick · Post by **BPatrick** » Thu. Dec. 18, 2014 12:51 pm

Windyhill, my baseburner is shut off from the exhaust pipe when in baseburner mode. It has an inner and outer barrel. The air will travel an extra 10-12' in this mode. Without over fire air, your not burning off the gases released. With my stove it's between 50-75 degrees if I'm not burning off the gases with the blue flames. I'll have everything shut down and the bottom door vents open barely, if I shut or almost shut the over fire air vents on the door, the temp.