Looking to Purchase This Antique Stove...

 
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Post by inline » Tue. Jun. 22, 2010 11:21 am

It is an antique Leader #12 stove. I haven't seen it in person yet and don't know what the grates look like. Has anyone seen anything like this before? Any idea of heating capability? It looks really tall...

Chris

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Post by franco b » Tue. Jun. 22, 2010 2:34 pm

I think it would put out a steady 20,000 BTU without over firing. Looking at the ash pit door I would be concerned that it is not airtight, those loose fitting doors usually are not, leading to over firing.

 
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Post by wsherrick » Tue. Jun. 22, 2010 2:59 pm

I can't tell much about the stove from the picture, but; it might be a base burner. It looks like the smaller Glenwood base burners which are among the best coal stoves ever made. If the back has a pipe that goes down to the bottom of the stove then it is a base burner. I would date this stove around 1910 or so. The doors are probably designed to fit tight but you need to make sure. It also looks like all of the nickel plated parts have been painted over. If it is in good shape and a baseburner, then; you will have an efficient stove which will put out a lot more heat for less coal than a standard stove. Most of these stoves have magazines which will give you long, long burn times between loadings.

 
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Post by inline » Tue. Jun. 22, 2010 4:04 pm

Thanks for the input. I thought it looked to be a base burner. I am going to check it out Saturday so I will have more info then.
Do these stoves usually have fire brick? It looks like rolled steel all the way to the cast base.

 
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Post by wsherrick » Tue. Jun. 22, 2010 9:17 pm

A lot of them are lined with brick, but; it is not always the case. The firepot extends from the top door all the way down to the little rectangular door at the bottom of the barrel. The No 12 probably refers to the diameter of the firepot. If that holds true and you have 10 to 12 inches of firepot depth, and it is a base burner this stove will be able to run a minimum of 12 to 15 hours on a load at a medium draft setting and at a low setting over 20 hours once you get the hang of operating it. If it has a magazine you can run it continuously and fill it maybe twice to three times a week.
If I may ask, how much are they asking for it?
The name plate, the frames around the top door and the small door at the bottom of the barrel should be re-nickeled and the swing top dome and finial also need to be re-nickeled as well as the round knobs on each of the three doors.
This will be a show piece stove if it is restored correctly.

 
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Post by inline » Tue. Jun. 22, 2010 9:41 pm

They are asking $300 for the stove. I would be interested in getting the parts re-nickeled. Hopefully it is in good shape and is a candidate for restoration.

 
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Post by freetown fred » Wed. Jun. 23, 2010 7:11 am

Beauty & functionality are in the eyes & pocketbook of the beholder--she looks like she's got alot of potential :)


 
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Post by rsck » Fri. Jun. 25, 2010 6:08 pm

I have a similar stove. Plymouth #11. the door slides from the left to right to open. You should have a damper on the rear of the stove to direct the flue gases to the bottom of the stove for a more efficient burn. I heated my 500 square foot garage with mine the past few years. Kept a fire in it for weeks at a time. Looks great. Thou a shame they painted over the shinny work. I have enclosed a pic of mine. This is what yours should look similar to. Good deal for $300. I think.

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Post by inline » Fri. Jun. 25, 2010 7:08 pm

rsck wrote:I have a similar stove. Plymouth #11. the door slides from the left to right to open. You should have a damper on the rear of the stove to direct the flue gases to the bottom of the stove for a more efficient burn. I heated my 500 square foot garage with mine the past few years. Kept a fire in it for weeks at a time. Looks great. Thou a shame they painted over the shinny work. I have enclosed a pic of mine. This is what yours should look similar to. Good deal for $300. I think.
Nice looking stove. How well did it heat your garage? I will want it to heat the back part of my house. Hoping to have it heat 900-1000 sq ft....

 
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Post by rsck » Fri. Jun. 25, 2010 8:29 pm

Nice looking stove. How well did it heat your garage? I will want it to heat the back part of my house. Hoping to have it heat 900-1000 sq ft....[/quote]

It heated my garage very well. When I had it fired up. I opened the door to my house and heated my house with it as well as a supplement to my wood heat. If I did not open the door it would have cooked me out. Going to try to find a good whole home coal heater this year and go totally coal this winter. I was burning approx 25-30 Lbs of coal a day. Very efficient. I just bought a pot belly and an old globe 360 degree view stove. Fired up the pot belly two night ago just to get some idea of the heat output. Not overly impressed. Nicer heat with my base burner. I have bought parts from http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/ great little site. Good prices and fast shipping. Grates and fire lining in the fire box is really only thing to worry about. as other than the finial and the front cast work the main body is just a thin metal body. A new grate may cost $150.00. My next stove is going to be a Chubby I think. I do not want to fire my globe style stove. To fancy to burn in :o)... Want to keep for looks.

 
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Post by wsherrick » Fri. Jun. 25, 2010 9:00 pm

That stove will easily heat 1,000 square feet. If it needs a new firepot; no big deal to replace them. A good firepot should last 15 to 20 years if you don't abuse the stove. I had my Glenwood Base burner's firepot lined with castable refactory cement. A cement lining should last a good 5 years of normal use. All you have to do is make a mold out of card board a little smaller than the firepot and pour in the castable cement. It is set when you light the first fire which also takes care of the card board mold. One of the neat things about Turn Of The Century Stoves is that they are designed to be be easily taken apart and maintained on a regular basis since coal stoves were a normal everyday part of most people's lives then.
By the way, I think $300 bucks is a good price for it if it is in good shape.

 
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Post by wsherrick » Fri. Jun. 25, 2010 10:04 pm

rsck wrote:Nice looking stove. How well did it heat your garage? I will want it to heat the back part of my house. Hoping to have it heat 900-1000 sq ft....
It heated my garage very well. When I had it fired up. I opened the door to my house and heated my house with it as well as a supplement to my wood heat. If I did not open the door it would have cooked me out. Going to try to find a good whole home coal heater this year and go totally coal this winter. I was burning approx 25-30 Lbs of coal a day. Very efficient. I just bought a pot belly and an old globe 360 degree view stove. Fired up the pot belly two night ago just to get some idea of the heat output. Not overly impressed. Nicer heat with my base burner. I have bought parts from http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/ great little site. Good prices and fast shipping. Grates and fire lining in the fire box is really only thing to worry about. as other than the finial and the front cast work the main body is just a thin metal body. A new grate may cost $150.00. My next stove is going to be a Chubby I think. I do not want to fire my globe style stove. To fancy to burn in :o)... Want to keep for looks.[/quote]

If you want a whole house heater that is super efficient, gives up to 30 hour burn times and is one of the top of stove designs of all time, then; you need to get a Glenwood Base Burner. I heat my entire 2 story house for about 50 to 60 pounds of coal per day during zero temperatures. Dij is another Forum member that has the same model of Glenwood I have and we both agree that once you have a Glenwood your search for the best coal stove is fullfilled. Please see the thread on the Glenwood if you haven't already.

 
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Post by inline » Sat. Jun. 26, 2010 11:17 am

Bought the stove today. Paid $200 for it. It is not a baseburner though...All the parts are there and the brick is in excellent shape. The rolled steel part has some patches welded on it some pin holes forming in other areas. Should I replace the whole rolled part with stainless rolled? I can have my shop do that. Would it be possible to make it taller while I do that as well? Maybe add another foot so it can hold more coal?

 
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Post by rsck » Sat. Jun. 26, 2010 11:30 am

You could make out of stainless. I would recommend a refractory fire lined fire box though. If you are going with stainless do not use concrete fire box. Going taller would dramatically change the appearance. Can you post a pic of the rear of the stove so we can get an idea of how the flu works on it? Do not know why you could not go taller. Polished stainless steel would look very nice but you are talking about a lot of money. If you have access to a shop you should see if someone has any 99% nickel welding rods and weld the cast work on the front of the stove. I use 99% nickel rods and they work great. Good purchase. You got a nice stove. and not a bad price.

 
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Post by inline » Sat. Jun. 26, 2010 12:10 pm

I would paint the stainless. I would just use it for longevity. Here are some pictures.

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