Looking to Purchase This Antique Stove...

 
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joeq
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Location: Northern CT
Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson

Post by joeq » Thu. Dec. 07, 2017 9:26 pm

Your temps to me sound normal on a stove running at medium throttle. But by your "draft slider", (I'm assuming your talking about your primary air, on the bottom, where your ash pan is) being fully closed off, and your MPD also shut, theoretically your stove should be going out. No air flow, means no fuel. if your average barrel temp is 400° with everything shut down, you must be getting air through it some how. Your clinker door at 600 sounds high. My 111 right now on a good strong burn is at about 350°. i think you should find a way to measure your draft, to start off with. Borrow or buy a manometer to check it. It'll help in troubleshooting, and adjusting.

 
inline
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Post by inline » Thu. Dec. 07, 2017 9:34 pm

Yeah...Meant primary slider. Going to check Grainger for a manometer tomorrow.
Could too strong a draft cause the higher temps? It was controllable yesterday when it was a little warmer out.
Would a baro or second MPD help?

 
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joeq
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson

Post by joeq » Thu. Dec. 07, 2017 10:51 pm

The manometer will tell you what your draft is, and if you need a baro. I've heard some people here using 2 MPDs, so I guess it's not un-heard of. And yes, a strong draft will suck the air through the coals, and cause the stove to run hotter. But you'll still need air on the primary side to help fuel it, so if your primaries are shut tight, you might be leaking air from somewhere else.


 
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Sunny Boy
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Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
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Post by Sunny Boy » Fri. Dec. 08, 2017 11:26 am

joeq wrote:
Thu. Dec. 07, 2017 10:51 pm
The manometer will tell you what your draft is, and if you need a baro. I've heard some people here using 2 MPDs, so I guess it's not un-heard of. And yes, a strong draft will suck the air through the coals, and cause the stove to run hotter. But you'll still need air on the primary side to help fuel it, so if your primaries are shut tight, you might be leaking air from somewhere else.

I agree.

With a strong drafting chimney system, small air leaks become bigger air leaks as the pressure difference between room and chimney becomes greater. The air flow through a leak increases in velocity and volume, too.

If the fire doesn't slowly die with the primary and MPD dampers fully closed check for air leaks below the level of the firebed using a thin stream of smoke from a piece of smoldering string, or incense stick held close to all joints.

Paul

 
inline
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Post by inline » Sat. Dec. 09, 2017 8:42 pm

Thanks guys. I picked up a manometer Friday (Haven't hooked up yet). I also used cement all around the seams in the ash pan area.
Going to see how the next few runs go...

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