Coalpail.com Forum

My radar is on now! I just may become a member of the Glenwood Stove society too!

Just for fun, I talked to Larry Trainer, the designer and manufacture of the Coal Stove Chubby, about this base burner design from the past and he told me, "Sure a Chubby could be designed to use this type of base burning unit. The obvious advantage would be the ash pan area for a large ash pan. Years ago I considered this approach but there was little market for an upright free standing stove in the current market. Also, the foundries aren't set up to make small intricate fancy thin pieces with facing sand like they did years ago. People could get an antique at a reasonable price if they wanted to. Although they are great to look at they need to have a place in the home and in the market. Unfortunately these days aren't back quite yet but may not be far away."

So from what I gather, if Chubbys start selling more, we may have the opportunity to see not only new Chubby Stoves be produced again, but possibly new Chubby Stove products! This is where us anthracite coal burners need to start to speak with their pocket books and help rekindle this yesteryear anthracite coal burning appliance technology. Let's all buy a Chubby from Larry to jump start this revolution!

Hi wsherrick and dlj, very interesting. But I still have a few questions. On the photo *inside showing ext. port w. louvers*, the stove seems to have a sole front door and the fire pot does not cover the front end (not all the way closed around), if so, does the anthracite fall down when you open the front door?
At the bottom of front door, there is a round plate with 3 triangular holes, what is it for? It looks to arrive on the top of the load so is it also for the secondary gas burning, we can see the fire in these holes on photo *beautiful view through wndows*? If so that means there are two secondary air syst. this one and the small holes around the firepot?
On the photo *grates shaken with stove closed up*, there are 2 other round wheels, are they for primary air control and why 2?
To access at the ash pan, do you have to unscrew something?
O.K. I think it's enough now! Hope you can understand my translation.
Again thanks for all the work you make for the good info. I think all the stoves builders should take lessons from both of you for *custommers relationship*, excepeted Mr Trainer who is very professional.
Salutations, nortcan

Hi Nortcan; Let's see. In regard to your first question regarding the firedoor and fire pot. The big loading door is really two doors. In the picture I have both of them open so you can see inside. The top of the firepot is BELOW the loading door. The firepot extends down below the door 11inches.
Next question: Yes there are 2 systems for secondary air. The iron ring and the damper in the door. The Glenwood can be set up to burn wood or Bituminous coal too. The additional draft in the door is basically for wood or Bituminous burning, but; if you want to add more air at any time you have the choice to do so.
Next question: The ashpit door is on hinges and it opens and closes like any other door. The nickle latch on the left holds it closed against the ashpit.
Also yes there are two primary air intakes in the ash pit door. This gives you the option of giving the fire lots of air when you need it or you can cut one totally off and crack the other to idle the stove for 24 hours or more at low heat. Having two, one on each side of the door allows air to be distributed evenly to all parts of the grate under the fire to prevent one side from overheating and causing thermal stress on the firepot.
The round wheels you see on each door are the intake dampers. They have a spring in the center of them which holds them tightly to the doors. To open or close them you rotate them to the setting you choose.
Hope this helps.
WWS

wsherrick wrote:Hi Nortcan; Let's see. In regard to your first question regarding the firedoor and fire pot. The big loading door is really two doors. In the picture I have both of them open so you can see inside. The top of the firepot is BELOW the loading door. The firepot extends down below the door 11inches.
Next question: Yes there are 2 systems for secondary air. The iron ring and the damper in the door. The Glenwood can be set up to burn wood or Bituminous coal too. The additional draft in the door is basically for wood or Bituminous burning, but; if you want to add more air at any time you have the choice to do so.
Next question: The ashpit door is on hinges and it opens and closes like any other door. The nickle latch on the left holds it closed against the ashpit.
Also yes there are two primary air intakes in the ash pit door. This gives you the option of giving the fire lots of air when you need it or you can cut one totally off and crack the other to idle the stove for 24 hours or more at low heat. Having two, one on each side of the door allows air to be distributed evenly to all parts of the grate under the fire to prevent one side from overheating and causing thermal stress on the firepot.
The round wheels you see on each door are the intake dampers. They have a spring in the center of them which holds them tightly to the doors. To open or close them you rotate them to the setting you choose.
Hope this helps.
WWS

Very good. Do you know the minimum anthracite load you can place in it, I mean when the stove is running and if you want to run 12 hrs between refills? The grates seem to have a large space in the middle, is it for that you preffer stove more than nut size? Back to the loading front door, you really can open the doors one at the time?
Thanks, nortcan

Sorry, my last post is for wsherrick not me.

Yes, you can open the loading doors one at a time. See photos. The gap in the middle of the grates is there because I have them tilted in an attempt to show their shape. When they are lined up, the gaps between them are the same. After the fire is started, I usually put on one scuttle full of coal. That adds up to about 25 lbs. On warm days, with the dampers cut back that 25 pounds will burn for 24 hours. On days when it is down in the single digits Fahrenheit and I need more heat, I will have 50 pounds burning and will add about 10 to 20 pounds every 12 hours.

wsherrick wrote:Yes, you can open the loading doors one at a time. See photos. The gap in the middle of the grates is there because I have them tilted in an attempt to show their shape. When they are lined up, the gaps between them are the same. After the fire is started, I usually put on one scuttle full of coal. That adds up to about 25 lbs. On warm days, with the dampers cut back that 25 pounds will burn for 24 hours. On days when it is down in the single digits Fahrenheit and I need more heat, I will have 50 pounds burning and will add about 10 to 20 pounds every 12 hours.

That's interesting how you run your stove. Since I'm gone a lot, I keep the stove very full and throttle down the draft to adjust for how hot I want the stove to run. When I'm gone 18 hours or more, I'll throttle the draft down more to make sure I keep a good fire going. Running the stove temp around 450F or less gives me substantially longer burn times - more in line with the 24 hours mark you've talked about. This past spring, when I was idling, I got burn times I didn't calculate, they were too long and I didn't want to risk running out of fire - I hate having to restart my stove once I started it... something about the one match per winter club.... When I turned the stove off this time, I think it took almost 5 days for the fire to go out. I think after day three I would have had to throw in some wood to make the fire catch again if I'd wanted to keep the fire going...

On weekends when I didn't have to worry about loosing a fire, the lower level as you mention works really well. I think the stove is most efficient at that level. It throws out great heat and consumes little coal. I would have felt comforatble running like that for maybe only about 12 hours. If I were around the house more, I'd run less coal and fill it more....

dj

wsherrick,

I'm going to have to post some pictures of the tool I made many years ago when I was blacksmithing to run my stove. It runs everything. I can adjust all dampers: chimney, circulation valve and air dampers. I can open and close the doors and pull the ash pan so I get my hands on it to take it out. It works great for doing all the adjustments on the fire when stoking, adding coal etc. And it works well to clean the ash pan area during the winter as some ash always falls outside the pan. {not that I ever miss emptying the pan right on time } All this without even touching the stove and one tool.... You could get one made up for your stove if you like it. If I still had my forge, I'd make you one...

dj

dlj wrote:wsherrick,

I'm going to have to post some pictures of the tool I made many years ago when I was blacksmithing to run my stove. It runs everything. I can adjust all dampers: chimney, circulation valve and air dampers. I can open and close the doors and pull the ash pan so I get my hands on it to take it out. It works great for doing all the adjustments on the fire when stoking, adding coal etc. And it works well to clean the ash pan area during the winter as some ash always falls outside the pan. {not that I ever miss emptying the pan right on time } All this without even touching the stove and one tool.... You could get one made up for your stove if you like it. If I still had my forge, I'd make you one...

dj

That would be great. Thank you very much. You're also right about how long the fire can last in the Glenwood. It's like th energizer bunny; it just keeps going and going . . .

Hi wsherrick, thank you for the doors photos. On your first photos , they really look like one single door. Do these doors have seal gaskets. I think it will be (probably) my last question about your Glenwood stove. I still amazed on the high tech. these stoves could have.
Salutations from Canada
nortcan

nortcan wrote:Hi wsherrick, thank you for the doors photos. On your first photos , they really look like one single door. Do these doors have seal gaskets. I think it will be (probably) my last question about your Glenwood stove. I still amazed on the high tech. these stoves could have.
Salutations from Canada
nortcan

Feel free to ask all the questions you like. I am happy to answer them if I can.
The doors do not need seal gaskets. They are fitted to give an airtight seal when they are closed. I checked with a lighted candle around the edges of each door and each seam of the stove when I first got it. There are NO leaks anywhere on it.
Now I have a question for you. When are you going to get a Glenwood for yourself?

wsherrick wrote:

nortcan wrote:Hi wsherrick, thank you for the doors photos. On your first photos , they really look like one single door. Do these doors have seal gaskets. I think it will be (probably) my last question about your Glenwood stove. I still amazed on the high tech. these stoves could have.
Salutations from Canada
nortcan

Feel free to ask all the questions you like. I am happy to answer them if I can.
The doors do not need seal gaskets. They are fitted to give an airtight seal when they are closed. I checked with a lighted candle around the edges of each door and each seam of the stove when I first got it. There are NO leaks anywhere on it.
Now I have a question for you. When are you going to get a Glenwood for yourself?

Hi wsherrick, If you have electricity breakdown, is it possible to use the top of the stove for heating meals? When you shake the ash, how do you know when to stop turning the crank, do you go from lef to right or all around?
Your question is very hard to answer. To get a Glenwood I would have to make a lot of work in the living room. If you saw my video (a differen Vigilant II), you saw that my stove is in an alcove and I have an air handler in the basement pullig the heat out of there and it send that warm air downstair in my office. Then my forced air furnace circulates all the air in the 3 levels of the house. The warm air from the stove is not send directly in the house's air ducts. That is the reason why the 3 levels have the same temp. Because the Glenwood in much bigger than my V.C. the change needs reflections...But nothing is impossible...
salutations,nortcan

Yes, you can cook on it if you want to. The decorative dome on top of the stove swings out and under it there is a large cooking surface. Also there is a smaller cook space on the top of the baseburner tubes. That area has a removable eye and is big enough for a good sized pot if you wanted or needed to cook on the stove. The lid there is the perfect size for a coffee percolator
I forgot to add that you can also load coal in the very top of the stove. You can remove the large lid and dump the coal right in. I don't do that because, 1 I'm too short to lift a bucket of coal that high and not make a big mess and 2, I don't want to chance damaging my Ising glass windows by falling coal hitting them.
You can rotate the grates totally around, but; if you do that with a fire in the stove you risk dumping hot coal in the ashpan.
The grates are shaken by giggling the crank back and forth until you feel the larger pieces of coal settling down on the grates. I also check the ash pan to see if there are any glowing coals that fell down. I check after I am finished shaking to keep the dust in the stove from getting out.
I know sooner or later you and Doug are going to get one of these. I just have a feeling

I'm still researching these Glenwood Base Burners. I've been looking to see the different styles and models that they made. There seems to be quite a few. It appears that the 1905 and earlier models have two windows in the feed door, while the 1906 and later models have three windows in the feed door. Some have the foot rest and some don't. I just don't know yet. Doing all of this homework is just part of all the fun. Thanks for sharing all the great attributes of this stove.

wsherrick wrote:Yes, you can cook on it if you want to. The decorative dome on top of the stove swings out and under it there is a large cooking surface. Also there is a smaller cook space on the top of the baseburner tubes. That area has a removable eye and is big enough for a good sized pot if you wanted or needed to cook on the stove. The lid there is the perfect size for a coffee percolator
I forgot to add that you can also load coal in the very top of the stove. You can remove the large lid and dump the coal right in. I don't do that because, 1 I'm too short to lift a bucket of coal that high and not make a big mess and 2, I don't want to chance damaging my Ising glass windows by falling coal hitting them.
You can rotate the grates totally around, but; if you do that with a fire in the stove you risk dumping hot coal in the ashpan.
The grates are shaken by giggling the crank back and forth until you feel the larger pieces of coal settling down on the grates. I also check the ash pan to see if there are any glowing coals that fell down. I check after I am finished shaking to keep the dust in the stove from getting out.
I know sooner or later you and Doug are going to get one of these. I just have a feeling

Just when you have time for it, could you please send a photo of your stove and some refference object like a chair or something else so we can have a good idea of the size of the stove . On the photos you sent the stove seems quite small but I think its of a good size.
I like the sooner or later. It gives me hopes...
Salutations, nortcan