Making a back pipe.
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My little Flirt #12 coal stove has been working much better after the change to Lehigh coal. It's no longer a PITA to shake down . And it doesn't seem to use as much coal. More left in the pot when I tend it in the morning. So lets see if we can reclaim some of the heat that usually goes up the chimney. I had some parts and a trip to the hardware store and $50 got everything else. The price of stove pipe has gone up. The exhaust on the Flirt is 5 inch. The body of the back pipe is 7 inch.
It's made so I'm able to install it and still have all the original pipe. if it doesn't work I can put it back as it was. . The 5 inch pipe to the stove will be cut to length when I've redone the current piping and can get a good measurement. Not the best time to shut down but I always check the pipes in January anyway. The gas company will get a couple bucks more from me but that's ok. If all goes as planned , we'll try it tomorrow afternoon.- warminmn
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Just so I understand this better, when you close that 1/2 MPD then the gas/fumes go down to the bottom of the pipe and then up the other side, correct? I like the simplicity of your project. I think pipe went up when they started talking about a steel tariff, before it even happened.
- McGiever
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Real nice job there bp
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nice work bp I like your damper design, keep us posted ………….. wilson
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The draft is pretty much the same with back pipe vs direct vent. The manometer barely moves. I've cut back the primary air a little . Is the back pipe making a noticeable difference in heat out put ? Appears so. Time will tell.
- mntbugy
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Looks like it will work very good.
Do you have a small gap at the bottom
of the baffle for fly ash to lay without closing off the pipe.
Most GW's back pipes have a small circular hole part way down the baffle and a half moon cut out at the bottom of the baffle to keep gases flowing in case pipe gets clogged with ash.
SB might have pics of a original GW baffle.
Do you have a small gap at the bottom
of the baffle for fly ash to lay without closing off the pipe.
Most GW's back pipes have a small circular hole part way down the baffle and a half moon cut out at the bottom of the baffle to keep gases flowing in case pipe gets clogged with ash.
SB might have pics of a original GW baffle.
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I left the partition 4 inches off the bottom plus there's a clean out on the side at the bottom big enough for the hose of my little shop vac.
- Pauliewog
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Looks good BP ! Looking forward to seeing the flue temperature differential between direct and indirect mode.
Paulie
Paulie
- Sunny Boy
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mntbugy wrote: ↑Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 6:06 pmLooks like it will work very good.
Do you have a small gap at the bottom
of the baffle for fly ash to lay without closing off the pipe.
Most GW's back pipes have a small circular hole part way down the baffle and a half moon cut out at the bottom of the baffle to keep gases flowing in case pipe gets clogged with ash.
SB might have pics of a original GW baffle.
Yes, Arty, I do,.... in the other computer. I'll post them later.
Some of the baffels I've seen have that hole that just above the lower edge,... and some don't have any hole. But, all have the half-round bottom edge.
Not sure why the baffle needs that half round cutout because the base casting that the pipe and baffle sit on top of is quite deep and is larger around than the diameter of the pipe (6 inch pipe for the GW 118 and 5 inch for the 114 & 116 ).
Plus, that cast iron base for the back pipe has a small clean out door in the rear face of it.
Paul
Last edited by Sunny Boy on Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 11:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Filled the stove with coal at 7 pm . It's after 10 now so it's settled in for the night.
That's above the coal ,middle of the load door. 246* Where the exhaust enters the back pipe. 204* A couple inches above the MPD. That ones easy to see. So far so good. It appears to be doing what it's supposed to do. 23* outside and the back room where the stoves sits is at 82*. The wife likes it warm since she had a heart attack a couple years ago. Front room is 73*. I've never had these house temps with the stove running at 246* and 23* outside. Must have something to do with having more than 3 times the heat radiating surface. I'm pleased. We'll see what we have in the morning. It's supposed to get a little colder over night.- Sunny Boy
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Ok here's a pic of the baffle from one of my GW11 - one of the ones without that hole near the bottom of the plate.
FYI, those cast iron baffles are often warped because of the extreme temp differences that can happen between each side when a really hot fire is quickly put into indirect draft. Wilson sells a reinforced cast iron baffle in the back pipes he recasts for the GW 116. It should eliminate, or at least greatly reduce any tendency to warp.
And then there's three pix of the rear bolt-on base that the pipe sits on. And showing the clean out door in that pipe base casting.
Paul
FYI, those cast iron baffles are often warped because of the extreme temp differences that can happen between each side when a really hot fire is quickly put into indirect draft. Wilson sells a reinforced cast iron baffle in the back pipes he recasts for the GW 116. It should eliminate, or at least greatly reduce any tendency to warp.
And then there's three pix of the rear bolt-on base that the pipe sits on. And showing the clean out door in that pipe base casting.
Paul
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A little cooler in the house this morning at 6am . Stove and pipe temp readings were pretty much the same as last evening, It was 75* in the back. I'm not unhappy with that as it was 10* here this morning. Paul, I wish you were closer. Pics were good but nothing like a hands on to get ideas for a better design. I made this pipe just to see if I could make one that worked. The stove pipe will last a few years but I'm not sure how long the internal partition will last. It's not very heavy material but it's what I had. If I don't get a new stove, I'm always looking, the next one will be made a little better.
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bp , I like your damper, you could bolt on two pcs. of square stock running the length of the partition, will help if it looks like it may want to warp,looks good. the damper is the real deal, glenwood over engineered a lot, sometimes simple is better.wilson
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This is something I wanted to try to see if it worked. I'm retired with a lot of time on my hands in the winter. I'm pleased with the results. When the wife says she notices a difference, I must have got something right. The next one may be a little different. I'll have a pipe rolled for it and the partition will be the same gauge metal . Maybe 18 or 20 gauge instead of 24 gauge stove pipe and 26 gauge partition. The inlet pipe should be heavier too. The damper may be a larger cast iron one ground down to fit instead of a smaller one with sheet metal screwed to it for the fit. This will all be decided after heating season when I tear it apart and see how everything looks. After tending the stove , it's interesting to watch the temperature change in the exhaust when you flip from direct to indirect draft. Right now 210* input to the back pipe, 107* output. It's not the best but better than it was. Good thing I no longer have all my welding stuff, I'd be trying to build a base heater, 10-12 inch suspended firepot, prismatic grates ---------- na, better stick to a backpipe for now.
- McGiever
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Long thread, so I linked you to this point...feel free to peruse the whole thread:
Glenwood Modern Oak # 116
Glenwood Modern Oak # 116