The Care and Feeding of a Warm Morning Stove

diesel21 · Post by **diesel21** » Mon. Nov. 07, 2011 9:20 pm

Well nobody answered my "bottom of the stove" question, so I'll do it myself!
The grate seems to do a fine job of holding the hot coals and the bottom does not seem to get exposed to that much heat.

Willis · Post by **Willis** » Tue. Nov. 08, 2011 9:08 pm

I replied to your pm but didn't post on forum! Both of mine have the thin bottom as well. I believe that these originally had a removable ash box but could be wrong. As long as it is still airtight you will be fine.

diesel21 · Post by **diesel21** » Tue. Nov. 08, 2011 9:26 pm

I see that now Willis. Thanks! I've only used the WM once so far, but I like how it burned.

Next issue with the WM. The top door hinges are busted off, and the handle (spring) also pops out when I lift off the lid. I've been using a vice grips to remove the lid when I need to add wood. I know I could stretch out the spring / handle, but it doesn't support the weight of the lid very well. Got a better solution for these busted hinges?

Willis · Post by **Willis** » Sun. Nov. 20, 2011 1:30 pm

This seems to be a common problem with broken hinges, both mid are afflicted with it. I usually just lean the lid against the pipe when I open it.

Jeger · Post by **Jeger** » Tue. Dec. 06, 2011 1:21 pm

After having my stove running for a few weeks now I thought I would throw my 2cents in.....

I LOVE this thing!

I am burning 60$/ton Bit coal from Hazard KY. I pick it up from a guy who owns a trucking company 15 minutes from my house. I have lit my stove once and tend to it before I go to bed and when I get up in the morning. Load at 630 am and at 10-11 pm all I have to do for more heat is give her more air. I am fairly certain I could load up, close the air down and come back in two days and still have a fire.

This thing really does its job very well, If you are considering a warm morning stove I say go for it.

diesel21 · Post by **diesel21** » Tue. Dec. 06, 2011 2:19 pm

Willis wrote:This seems to be a common problem with broken hinges, both mid are afflicted with it. I usually just lean the lid against the pipe when I open it.

This is what the previouse owner of my WM did until the lid fell off of the stove and broke in half!

Willis · Post by **Willis** » Tue. Dec. 06, 2011 8:54 pm

Diesel21 have you been using the WM any, give us some updates. I have had mine burning for a few weeks now but mostly to get rid of the lump coal in my bin so I have room for stoker coal when I bring my newest addition online soon. Hopefully join the ranks of full time coal burner soon and stop using the ng furnace!

diesel21 · Post by **diesel21** » Wed. Dec. 07, 2011 8:10 am

Been using the WM to heat my detached 2 car insulated garage and it works nicely. I live in Iowa, and haven't had a chance to use it on a sub zero day, but it has been working nicely for my needs so far. I had a small Menard's brand wood stove with a glass door, and the WM works much better. I don't heat the garage all of the time. Just when I'm out there doing projects. I'm still burning wood, but may try mixing coal at some point.

Smokeyja · Post by **Smokeyja** » Sun. Dec. 11, 2011 11:28 pm

diesel21 wrote:I just had an oval to round adapter custom made and I installed a 6" damper (pic). I am looking forward to using the stove for my first time. While examining My Warm Morning 520 I noticed that the bottom of the fire box (below the grate and ash pan) seems to be made of very thin metal.

What is the bottom of your WM stoves made of?

It seems to me that the bottom should be cast iron or should be lined with firebricks. I plan to burn wood because that's what's available to me. I'm worried about burning through the base!

you won't burn through the bottom and these stoves did come with sheet metal ash pans in them which are easy to make or have someone make. Heck a cut down large coffee can would work if all else fails.

I have been burning wood/anthracite in my 414 the past couple of weeks and there is no way you could burn through the bottom unless you are shaking hot coals at a massive rate and letting them burn constantly.

BTW - a good place to buy some WM parts http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.com/default.asp . I just bought a grate from them.

If anyone wants fixed hinges or doors I might be able to help out and fix them with some silica bronze, but shipping and time might not be worth it to you. If you know a good metal worker I am sure he could fix you right up for a small price.

I also saw where you had a custom oval 6" to round made but you know the steel pipe they sell at lowes can easily be squished to fit over the oval and still maintain round at the other end.

I added some manuals that I found elsewhere on this forum a little while ago.

diesel21 · Post by **diesel21** » Mon. Dec. 12, 2011 6:54 am

6" was too small and 8" was too big for the oval. My nephew made the custom adaptor so it was free

Smokeyja · Post by **Smokeyja** » Mon. Dec. 12, 2011 4:29 pm

diesel21 wrote:6" was too small and 8" was too big for the oval. My nephew made the custom adaptor so it was free

Free is always a plus! and it looks like he did a good job.

Willis · Post by **Willis** » Tue. Dec. 13, 2011 8:47 pm

I have tried to let my WM go out but I can't seem to do it! I only started to burn it this year to empty my coal bin so I would have room for stoker coal for my nearly complete combustioneer install. Burning coal is so addictive. I used up the ton I had left from last year, but then I couldn't stop, I brought a few buckets from work, but I still can't stop. Luckily 2 years ago a truck load of Pittsburgh # 8 coal wrecked in my cow field and I told the company no need to clean up!

My neighbor and I have been sharing it, so I think 25 tons is going to keep my addiction going at least until I finish my stoker.

coalturkey · Post by **coalturkey** » Sun. Dec. 18, 2011 5:55 am

I am using a warm morning stove model 523 which is 100 lb capacity. I am burning bit that I bought at the auction with the stove. In looking at the flue bricks, why couldn't one make a wooden mold with a slightly tapered peg for the flue, line withe fiberglass resin so it wouldn't stick and cast your own with Rutland castable refractory cement? At $95 a pop there is no way one can afford to reline one and they are the best darn stove and also cheap to get. I have 3 now and will buy more as I find them. I want to dis-assemble mine next summer and seal all the joints like new so I have better control of the fire but 2 days is easy in mild weather. I burn blashek in the 2nd one and it is a beautiful thing. Almost no clinkers or ash and shut right down 600 deg on the side and 200 in the stack at the baro above the manual damper. I think they compare very favorably with stoves costing $2500 and I paid $15 for mine. Does any one know of a paint that would take the temps to paint the sheet metal?

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Sun. Dec. 18, 2011 7:38 am

I don't know, why couldn't one??? It's been done before my friend. Have at it & keep us posted.

Any GOOD hi-temp paint--Rutland comes to mind but I've read of others on here--go to upper right corner & put hi-temp paint & hiy search. I'd rough up the sheet metal a bit, but that's just me.

mdtatter · Post by **mdtatter** » Sun. Dec. 18, 2011 5:12 pm

Hi all. Over the years I have made my own replacement firebrick using what is termed castable refractory, which I obtained at a brick-making company in Mt. Savage, Md. What happened was this: the castable firebrick swelled with the intense heat. After the Winter season was done my new brick was easily twice as thick as my original firebrick. Perhaps Rutland has a more heat-stable mix. Nothing beat a trial, though

Mdtatter

The Care and Feeding of a Warm Morning Stove

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