Clayton 1600 vs Hot Blast

 
Dustycloud
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Post by Dustycloud » Mon. Sep. 18, 2023 2:26 pm

Lightning wrote:
Mon. Sep. 18, 2023 2:14 pm
We can do that..
Send me your number in a private message. I'm busy at the moment but we can set up a time.

Will it be a cell number?
Yes a cell, I'm also busy at the moment.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Mon. Sep. 18, 2023 2:31 pm

Dustycloud wrote:
Mon. Sep. 18, 2023 2:26 pm
Yes a cell, I'm also busy at the moment.
Ok cool

 
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Post by Dustycloud » Sun. Sep. 24, 2023 8:56 pm

So I finally got everything completed. Tried to build a smoky fire to check the firebox and when I turned the blowers on the fiance said she could smell some smoke. Now idk if it pulled the residuel smoke from lighting the fire from the basement or not. I'm sure some came out the door but now I'm paranoid.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Mon. Sep. 25, 2023 2:59 am

I could always smell it a little in the house whenever I built my first fire for the season. Sometimes it takes a few minutes for the chimney draft to get a hold of the exhaust so that none is leaking into the basement. If you run a fire for several hours and it seems like the smell is getting stronger or there is visually noticeable smoke in the house, then yes, there could be bigger problems of course.

The blowers on the furnace create positive pressure around the firebox. So, if there truly is a crack or hole in the firebox that went unseen, it's more likely that air would get pushed into the firebox instead of exhaust getting pulled out of it.

Same goes with the natural draw (chimney draft) of the chimney. It keeps a negative pressure on the firebox and stove pipe so that any smoke/exhaust can't leak out of unsealed sections of stove pipe at joints, ect... The term "negative pressure" just simply means that the pressure in the firebox and stove pipe is lower, relative to the surrounding atmosphere in the basement, which is created by the chimney draft.

Many of us use a device called a manometer to measure this pressure differential. It helps us determine if the negative pressure created by the chimney is too strong or too weak.... and since you bought a barometric damper for yours, a manometer will help you set it properly.

 
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Post by waytomany?s » Mon. Sep. 25, 2023 6:44 am

Your going to smell smoke. There's no way around that. Until it's going good and draft comes up you'll get some back out the door every time. Initial smokey fire just to check gaskets and chimney. After that minimal smoke is the goal.


 
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Post by Dustycloud » Mon. Sep. 25, 2023 9:13 pm

Lightning wrote:
Mon. Sep. 25, 2023 2:59 am
I could always smell it a little in the house whenever I built my first fire for the season. Sometimes it takes a few minutes for the chimney draft to get a hold of the exhaust so that none is leaking into the basement. If you run a fire for several hours and it seems like the smell is getting stronger or there is visually noticeable smoke in the house, then yes, there could be bigger problems of course.

The blowers on the furnace create positive pressure around the firebox. So, if there truly is a crack or hole in the firebox that went unseen, it's more likely that air would get pushed into the firebox instead of exhaust getting pulled out of it.

Same goes with the natural draw (chimney draft) of the chimney. It keeps a negative pressure on the firebox and stove pipe so that any smoke/exhaust can't leak out of unsealed sections of stove pipe at joints, ect... The term "negative pressure" just simply means that the pressure in the firebox and stove pipe is lower, relative to the surrounding atmosphere in the basement, which is created by the chimney draft.

Many of us use a device called a manometer to measure this pressure differential. It helps us determine if the negative pressure created by the chimney is too strong or too weak.... and since you bought a barometric damper for yours, a manometer will help you set it properly.
Any suggestions on a manometer? I seen a few on Amazon and ebay. I don't know what to get. Want to keep it economical as possible.

 
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warminmn
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Post by warminmn » Mon. Sep. 25, 2023 10:42 pm

My manometer also tells me 5 minutes before most snowfalls if the wind is somewhat light. Pressure drops real low. Beats any weather man. Cool gadgets, sometimes they do plug using wood. I'll let lightning tell which model as he had a similar stove to yours.

 
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Post by Lightning » Tue. Sep. 26, 2023 12:40 pm

This one here,
Dwyer Mark II model 25

Attachments

20230926_123838.jpg
.JPG | 485.9KB | 20230926_123838.jpg

 
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Post by Dustycloud » Tue. Sep. 26, 2023 12:58 pm

How do you hook that up? Looks different than the other ones I've seen.

 
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Post by Dustycloud » Tue. Oct. 03, 2023 9:34 pm

Placed an order for a Dwyer Mark ll 25. How do I attach it to my flu? I know it has to go before the barometric damper.


 
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Post by waytomany?s » Wed. Oct. 04, 2023 7:29 am

Sometimes the kit comes with rubber tubing. Get a short piece of brake line to attach it to. Drill hole in pipe, slide brake line from inside out, if you have the end of line with the bevel. Attach tubing.

 
Dustycloud
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Post by Dustycloud » Wed. Oct. 04, 2023 10:42 pm

waytomany?s wrote:
Wed. Oct. 04, 2023 7:29 am
Sometimes the kit comes with rubber tubing. Get a short piece of brake line to attach it to. Drill hole in pipe, slide brake line from inside out, if you have the end of line with the bevel. Attach tubing.
Do you know what size of brake line to use? Yes mine is comes with tubing... I don't know the size yet as I have not received it.

 
waytomany?s
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Post by waytomany?s » Thu. Oct. 05, 2023 6:34 am

That I don't remember. If you search I'm sure it's mentioned in one of the discussions on setup.

 
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warminmn
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Post by warminmn » Thu. Oct. 05, 2023 9:03 am

This probably covers every angle, but its whatever size fits inside the hose somewhat tight. i used a rubber hose from a junk cars windshield washer. Really any line that fits will work. Getting and keeping the manometer level is real important. Post by Hoytman - Manometer install parts list

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