Warm Morning safe install in garage

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larryfoster
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Location: Armstrong County, Pa.
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Post by larryfoster » Wed. Nov. 08, 2017 9:55 am

Couple pics
WM install.jpg
.JPG | 296.1KB | WM install.jpg
It's straighter than it looks.
Amateur photographers.

WM chimney.jpg
.JPG | 368.3KB | WM chimney.jpg
I have some ceramic insulation coming today for around the hole in the wall.
Also, the particle board is coming off so I can try to insulate that wall.

I have lots of openings.
I hope everyone's prediction on how much heat this stove puts out is accurate.

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windyhill4.2
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Wed. Nov. 08, 2017 10:04 am

With the thimble going downward into the inside, how will you keep water from following that inward slope ?

 
larryfoster
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Post by larryfoster » Wed. Nov. 08, 2017 10:11 am

I need to figure out a way to seal it.
I bought two of those circle wall things.
One for outside and one for inside.
And then caulk.

Maybe some flashing, too?
But, I'm open to suggestions

 
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windyhill4.2
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Wed. Nov. 08, 2017 11:00 am

The easy way would have been to install the thimble level or even tilted just a bit outward.

 
larryfoster
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Other Heating: Propane Kerosene

Post by larryfoster » Wed. Nov. 08, 2017 11:26 am

I thought I wanted a slightly upward tilt for improved draw.

It's probably permanent due to the difficulty in getting it mounted and getting help doing it.

I'm going to try to flash it

Thanks for pointing these things out

 
larryfoster
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Other Heating: Propane Kerosene

Post by larryfoster » Wed. Nov. 08, 2017 10:17 pm

Got my ceramic insulation late this evening.
Expect to test fire tomorrow while I can keep a good eye on it.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Thu. Nov. 09, 2017 4:33 am

Flashing, insulation, GOOD caulk & ring should do the trick L. Ya gonna undo that elbow for the outside ring???

 
larryfoster
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Post by larryfoster » Thu. Nov. 09, 2017 7:29 am

I scrapped the outside ring idea for the moment, Fred.
Too small for the double wall pipe.
At least what I can find around here.
I think, with caulking, it will do

And, when I have helpers, I need to see if I can get it apart to clean without it toppling

I made a rudimentary flashing that should be adequate.
(Maybe)

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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Thu. Nov. 09, 2017 8:06 am

Anyway you could finagle a "T" to replace that elbow??? Looks kinda improbable but where there's a will, there is usually a way. Make cleanin MUCH easier. Yes, flashing insulation & caulk will work fine.

 
larryfoster
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Post by larryfoster » Thu. Nov. 09, 2017 8:19 am

I'd thought about a Tee there, Fred.
But, in my challenges, I went without it.
I don't think they had one when I went to buy my pipe.

When I have a helper to climb on the roof and be sure it doesn't fall over, I'm going to take the screws out that my neighbor insisted I put in where the single wall goes into the double wall on the inside.
If stable, I can clean there.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Thu. Nov. 09, 2017 8:36 am

Yep, that'll work--L, with those supports--if they're nice & tight-- that pipes not goin anywhere--but YES 2nd set of hands never hurt a soul!! :)

 
larryfoster
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Post by larryfoster » Thu. Nov. 09, 2017 8:49 am

It's pretty top heavy.
I "think" I have it anchored pretty good.

 
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Post by franco b » Thu. Nov. 09, 2017 10:08 am

Those wall stand offs are not supports. I am surprised chimney is still standing.

Get proper chimney support with insulated tee along with short insulated pipe into garage. As Fred pointed out you have no way to clean out from bottom without proper tee. The insulated pipe going through wall needs 2 inch air space all around.

 
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Logs
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Post by Logs » Thu. Nov. 09, 2017 10:24 am

Larry, I’m not trying to be a smart ass, but I think you will have nothing but problems with that chimney. Better to take care of now than later. Looks like a good wind would blow that right over. Like others have pointed out there is no way to clean it. My advice to you wood be, take franco’s advice and get the chimney in good shape first, then you could hook up the stove. If it was me , I would cut about 6’ off the top and burn wood . You just need a little heat , you ain’t living in there.

 
larryfoster
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Posts: 1312
Joined: Fri. Nov. 21, 2014 1:02 am
Location: Armstrong County, Pa.
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 617-B
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Hot Blast 1557M
Coal Size/Type: Bituminous nut (me and the coal)
Other Heating: Propane Kerosene

Post by larryfoster » Thu. Nov. 09, 2017 11:02 am

Logs, no offense taken and suggestions appreciated.

But, I'll give you my reasoning.
Which could be wrong.

The rule has always been to be 3' higher than anything within 10' for draw.
I don't meet that now.
Cutting 6' off would ensure no draft and may put me below the eave.
From the elbow there's only 10' of pipe.
I would have loved to leave a section or two off

It may fall in a good wind but those guys on the roof are pretty sturdy.
Just don't know if it's sturdy enough.
Yet.


Since I'm operating on a tight budget, I already had the stove.
And coal.
Not that much wood.
I didn't have to buy a stove or find more wood.

I may have not properly described the building's construction.
It is a very crude structure that will be very difficult to stop the leaks and infiltration and heat.
This stove isn't overkill in my situation.
It may not be enough to provide a little bit of heat so I can work there.
I'm working on tightening it up a little.

I don't think a little wood stove would put out enough heat.

For now, I may monkey around out there most days

I will put a Tee in when I have help.
I think that's a good idea.
For now, I don't think I will need to clean it real soon.
If I do, I should be able to take the pipe off going into the double wall and clean from inside.

Especially with my new, fancy Soot Eater tool.

I will be very cautious in trying this out.

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