Warm Morning safe install in garage

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larryfoster
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 617-B
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Hot Blast 1557M
Coal Size/Type: Bituminous nut (me and the coal)
Other Heating: Propane Kerosene
Location: Armstrong County, Pa.

Post By: larryfoster » Mon. Aug. 14, 2017 9:54 am

Hopefully, we can keep this under 100 pages.
:?

I'm in the process of fixing up the old 2 bay garage and converting one bay to a wood shop to monkey around in.

I'm considering putting my old Warm Morning 617-A pot belly out there to take the chill off but don't want to burn the building down either.

First question before I go into details is it wise?
Or should I take one of my kero heaters out or get a ventless propane heater.
A salamander would take up a lot of valuable floor space.

I don't plan on burning constantly but to light it when I want to do something there.

It's and old wood frame building with a dirt floor.
I plan to put a wooden floor in the workshop area except around the stove.
I could, either, leave that dirt, put a cement pad or bricks under it.
Thoughts, please.

I've used fire rated drywall so I'm aware of that for the sides and above, if necessary.
What would be the minimum safe clear distances be?

Going through the wall,I'm guessing a joint of triple wall?

Thanks in advance.

Hotblast year 4 will be coming up soon.
:mrgreen:


KingCoal
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Location: Elkhart county, IN.

Post By: KingCoal » Mon. Aug. 14, 2017 10:43 am

well.....first off if i wasn't going to heat it for at least 2 days or more at a time i wouldn't even mess with coal.

second for the approx. volume of space you are considering i would expect the 617 to blow you out of there. there is a 414 / 60# capacity WM for sale here on site that might be better suited and could still be too much. 20 #'s of ash, 20 #'s of burning coal and 20 #'s of fresh coal in the cylinder releasing gas to burn as blue ladies is still alot of heat for a small space and short term duty

third, garage / shop. is there going to be any vaporous stuff around, hate to hear of someone making an unexpected "moon shot" with any kind of open flame heat source.

steve

larryfoster
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 617-B
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Coal Size/Type: Bituminous nut (me and the coal)
Other Heating: Propane Kerosene
Location: Armstrong County, Pa.

Post By: larryfoster » Mon. Aug. 14, 2017 11:22 am

Thanks for the reply.
I forgot to mention that all gasoline would be stored in another location along with any gasoline engines.

I may not have to worry about too much heat cooking me out.
This building is no where near air tight.

It's at least 65+ years old and was built cheaply using plank construction.
It keeps stuff dry but not built to be tight.

I hadn't considered keeping a small banked fire. Just figured on lighting a small fire to warm it a little and burn out when I was done.
Last edited by larryfoster on Mon. Aug. 14, 2017 12:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Logs
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Post By: Logs » Mon. Aug. 14, 2017 11:42 am

I would have to agree with Kingcoal on trying to use a coal burner occasionally . I have pretty much the same setup as you are talking about doing. I have a small box stove woodburner in the corner. With a woodburner you won't need some fancy chimney and problems with draft. Also wood fire will heat you garage must faster and just let it go out when your done monkeying around out there. You could use a piece of terra cotta pipe for a thimble thru the wall , that is what I did at my cabin and it worked well . In my garage I used a piece of 8 " steel pipe though the wall cause that's what I had. My stove is about a foot away from back wall. I have a piece of metal roofing behind it spaced away from wall about an inch. Has worked fine for thirty some years. If it was me , I would go with a small woodburner. I can't stand the smell of Keriosene. Good luck
Dave

larryfoster
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 617-B
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Coal Size/Type: Bituminous nut (me and the coal)
Other Heating: Propane Kerosene
Location: Armstrong County, Pa.

Post By: larryfoster » Mon. Aug. 14, 2017 12:49 pm

Thanks for that info on your stove.
I mention the Warm Morning because that's what I have and it's in my way in the basement.
:oops:

Many years ago, I (vaguely) recall that stove (or it's twin) set up in our living room before we had a furnace.
Don't remember much protection or clearance around it but things were different then.

I have about 3/4 cord of wood split and seasoned for the furnace this fall.
Won't need all of that for the furnace so I could siphon a little off for the garage.

I don't expect to be out there every day unless the wife boots me and the dog.

I just want to be safe

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Lightning
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Post By: Lightning » Wed. Aug. 16, 2017 10:10 am

I found that using wood in my garage for short term heating is the way to go. Gets hot fast and no fussing other than adding wood while yer out there every few hours. That's just my opinion :)

franco b
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Post By: franco b » Wed. Aug. 16, 2017 10:16 am

For your application you want an oversize stove to put out a lot of heat fast because that room and everything in it will be very cold. You need fast heat and a lot of it.

The bricks in the Warm Morning take time to heat up and begin transferring heat. Clearance is 3 feet or half that if you use shielding on wall or around half the stove.

Check Craigslist for used insulated pipe for the chimney. Do it right.

larryfoster
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Posts: 1288
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 617-B
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Coal Size/Type: Bituminous nut (me and the coal)
Other Heating: Propane Kerosene
Location: Armstrong County, Pa.

Post By: larryfoster » Wed. Aug. 16, 2017 10:29 am

Thanks, Franco and Lightning.

I definitely want to do it right.

For insulated pipe, would double wall be adequate or should I stick with triple wall?
Thanks for the Craigslist tip


franco b
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Post By: franco b » Wed. Aug. 16, 2017 9:53 pm

larryfoster wrote:Thanks, Franco and Lightning.

I definitely want to do it right.

For insulated pipe, would double wall be adequate or should I stick with triple wall?
Thanks for the Craigslist tip
I would use Selkirk (Metalbestos) double wall insulated pipe. Triple wall would be OK too. Straight up through the roof is best for draft and needs less insulated pipe than going through the wall. All you need is ceiling support and probably 6 feet of pipe, rain cap, along with roof flashing, and probably a brace piece. If you come out of the top of the stove you will also need an extension that slips inside the smoke pipe. That will allow you to take the pipe down easily, as it provides a slip joint. The alternative is to use an elbow with rear exit from the stove.

Enter "chimney pipe" for Craigslist.

larryfoster
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 617-B
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Coal Size/Type: Bituminous nut (me and the coal)
Other Heating: Propane Kerosene
Location: Armstrong County, Pa.

Post By: larryfoster » Wed. Aug. 16, 2017 10:10 pm

Thanks for the info.
I will need to go out through the wall.
Will the whole run be insulated pipe?

franco b
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Post By: franco b » Wed. Aug. 16, 2017 10:36 pm

larryfoster wrote:Will the whole run be insulated pipe?
You will need a through the wall kit and one foot of insulated pipe. After that a wall support to attach outside. Then an insulated tee, followed by enough insulated pipe to reach high enough to provide a couple of feet clearance above anything within 10 feet. A few wall supports too.

Much cheaper and easier to go through the roof, though it might seem scarier.

If you go to the Selkirk web site it has directions and supplies.

Where is Armstrong county?

larryfoster
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Posts: 1288
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 617-B
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Hot Blast 1557M
Coal Size/Type: Bituminous nut (me and the coal)
Other Heating: Propane Kerosene
Location: Armstrong County, Pa.

Post By: larryfoster » Wed. Aug. 16, 2017 11:08 pm

Structurally, through the roof won't be a good idea.
It is a tin roof, maybe 70 years old.
There is a loft/attic in this old garage.
It's not that it's scary but it would create lots of problems

larryfoster
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Posts: 1288
Joined: Fri. Nov. 21, 2014 1:02 am
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 617-B
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Hot Blast 1557M
Coal Size/Type: Bituminous nut (me and the coal)
Other Heating: Propane Kerosene
Location: Armstrong County, Pa.

Post By: larryfoster » Sun. Oct. 01, 2017 10:59 am

I'm moving through on this project at a snail's pace but am to the point I need to make accommodation for the (a) stove.

Here's what I'm thinking.
I'm down to dirt and was going to make a brick hearth/pad.
Was going to put it in one corner of the area near the garage doors.

I know I can use 5/8" fire rated dry wall to, possibly, reduce clearance distance.

What is the minimum safe distance on the sides and overhead, please?

Any better suggestions?
Thanks

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Hambden Bob
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Post By: Hambden Bob » Sun. Oct. 01, 2017 11:40 am

Here 'Ya Go,Larry ! search.php?keywords=Warm+Morning+Stove+&sf=firstpost

My Contribution towards Your Honest Efforts ! Using the Upper Right Search Bar,I was able to create this link towards Warm Morning Stoves. I think 277 entries popped up. Drive Yourself to Wild Warm Morning Install Nirvana with these Info Puppies !

Enjoy Your Project,Larry,and I Hope it bears the kind of Fruit Your lokkin' to Harvest this Winter !

larryfoster
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Posts: 1288
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 617-B
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Hot Blast 1557M
Coal Size/Type: Bituminous nut (me and the coal)
Other Heating: Propane Kerosene
Location: Armstrong County, Pa.

Post By: larryfoster » Mon. Oct. 02, 2017 6:36 am

Thanks,Bob.
Lots of stuff to go through.

I'm about 1/2 way through and haven't found info on how to minimize my clearances.

franco, I missed your question on Armstrong County a while back.
Sorry.
I'm @ 50 miles north east of Pittsburgh.


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