Need Ideas for Ceramic Fire Arch for Burning Bit in GJ 62

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ldmill
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Posts: 25
Joined: Sat. Aug. 18, 2012 9:21 pm
Location: WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor with a Motor Stokor
Coal Size/Type: Bituminous Stoker / 1-1/2" X 1/4"
Other Heating: Geothermal Heat Pump

Post by ldmill » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 1:28 am

I would like to get ideas on building a ceramic arch over top of the burn pot in a GJ 62. I use a Motor Stoker burning Bit coal. How much benefit would offer. Thanks for any ideas anyone can offer.

 
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McGiever
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Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 7:18 am

Welcome :)
Sorry, I can not offer any help to your questions...hopefully someone else will.

We all here love seeing others setups. :) May we see some pics of yours?

What part of West Virginia are you in?

BTW: I see you list a geo/hp, I have 2 here also, myself. :)

 
ldmill
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Posts: 25
Joined: Sat. Aug. 18, 2012 9:21 pm
Location: WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor with a Motor Stokor
Coal Size/Type: Bituminous Stoker / 1-1/2" X 1/4"
Other Heating: Geothermal Heat Pump

Post by ldmill » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 10:43 am

I am in the process of rebuilding the base, adding an extension to set the boiler on and putting firebrick in the extension and around the fire pot. I can take some pictures and post tomorrow. I like the Geo especially in the summer, but in my opinion you cannot beat the warmth of a hot radiator to back up to when coming out of the cold in the winter.

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 11:02 am

Would the ceramic be there to burn the off-gasses?


 
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Berlin
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Post by Berlin » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 12:02 pm

Use high temp, high density ceramic fiberboard 1.5 to 2" thick. Cut two pieces about 10" wide and rest them against each other - I recommend fingering them together. It will look like the top of a triangle or a tee-pee. you can even notch the bottoms where the rest against the base to let any flyash accumulation drop. Also, extend the short baffel in the back by cutting a piece of ceramic fiberboard 1" thick and running it all the way down in front of it, but just overlapping the baffel by 1" or so. I extended the base on one I did about 12" or so and put ceramic fiberboard 2" thick all the way around to reflect the heat. It works very well and allows much less air to get a good burn.

 
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McGiever
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Posts: 10130
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 12:19 pm

@ *ldmil*,

Yep, My geo/hp runs "balls to the walls" in the summer time too, mine is an "open system" aka; "pump and dump", not the anti-freeze circulated closed loop type. :)

Here, I'm going to help you after all: ;)

http://www.hitempincusa.com/firebricks.asp

http://www.hitempincusa.com/ceramic_fiber.asp

http://www.buyinsulationproductstore.com/calcium- ... nsulation/

Hope this Helps :)

 
ldmill
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Posts: 25
Joined: Sat. Aug. 18, 2012 9:21 pm
Location: WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor with a Motor Stokor
Coal Size/Type: Bituminous Stoker / 1-1/2" X 1/4"
Other Heating: Geothermal Heat Pump

Post by ldmill » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 1:39 pm

Yes, to give a better burn. It should reflect the heat back to the coals to help get a complete burn I am thinking. I am a novice so my thoughts are more or less trials to hopefully accomplish a much better burn. The coal I have used is high quality but, it is high coking coal also which makes it harder to get a complete burn due to the coking factor.

Berlin, that is a great idea. Should I install so the side slopes are to the boiler side or front to back. In my extension I have installed a door which has 2-1/2" fire brick for a liner with holes drilled similar to yours (This is where I got the idea from and many thanks ). I am thinking I will be able to help keep the fly ash cleaned from the arch thru the GJ door. I will have to locate ceramic fiber board. No one around here stocks much of anything for stoves it seems.

The Geo Thermal is a backup for when I am not around to keep the boiler going. I have 5 loops 250' each buried approx. 5 to 6 feet in the ground and use R-22 refrigerant in it.

 
ldmill
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Posts: 25
Joined: Sat. Aug. 18, 2012 9:21 pm
Location: WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor with a Motor Stokor
Coal Size/Type: Bituminous Stoker / 1-1/2" X 1/4"
Other Heating: Geothermal Heat Pump

Post by ldmill » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 1:44 pm

McGiver, I am about 23 miles South of Beckley, WV.

I will give HiTemp a call. Maybe other sources will become available also.
Thanks, Larry


 
ldmill
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Posts: 25
Joined: Sat. Aug. 18, 2012 9:21 pm
Location: WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor with a Motor Stokor
Coal Size/Type: Bituminous Stoker / 1-1/2" X 1/4"
Other Heating: Geothermal Heat Pump

Post by ldmill » Mon. Oct. 19, 2015 9:57 pm

Some pictures as promised. As can be seen there is a lot to be finished at this point.

I am looking for an ash auger along with the sectional top ring at the top
of the burn pot for the Motor Stoker .

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McGiever
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Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Mon. Oct. 19, 2015 10:13 pm

Interesting. :)

Doesn't resemble the Motor Stoker that's on You Tube so much.


 
ldmill
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Posts: 25
Joined: Sat. Aug. 18, 2012 9:21 pm
Location: WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor with a Motor Stokor
Coal Size/Type: Bituminous Stoker / 1-1/2" X 1/4"
Other Heating: Geothermal Heat Pump

Post by ldmill » Mon. Oct. 19, 2015 10:29 pm

It is somewhat different. The ash augers are not in the pictures. I have a bin which I attach directly to the Stoker. I had to extend the auger and I use a separate speed reducer to drive it. I have had to slow the feed rate down to help the burn out.

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