Stove Choice for the AK Sub-Bit

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AKShadow
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Posts: 88
Joined: Wed. Jan. 12, 2011 12:05 pm
Location: Fairbanks, AK
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 523
Coal Size/Type: Sub-bituminous, stove

Post by AKShadow » Thu. Jan. 13, 2011 2:08 am

I am looking to replace my old VC Vigiland woodstove with a coal stove, getting tired of splitting wood and handling it six times before it gets in the
firebox. Obviously I want what everybody wants - long burn times with little maintenance. Seems like the consensus is that stokers won't run sub-bit and that
the hand fired units are the way to go? I see that Valley Trash runs a Romax, I see that AK Cozy Coal sells those but doesn't have too much info online, got any specifics that might steer me in a particular direction? I have a drafty house thats around 2000 squareft. I have a Jotul 507 that I want to install but it doesnt have doors so I have to source those before I can think about that helping the heat situation

 
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Short Bus
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Posts: 510
Joined: Sun. Jan. 10, 2010 12:22 am
Location: Cantwell Alaska
Stoker Coal Boiler: Kewanee boiler with Anchor stoker
Coal Size/Type: Chestnut / Sub-bituminous C
Other Heating: Propane wall furnace back up only

Post by Short Bus » Thu. Jan. 13, 2011 3:47 am

Here are some pictures of Valley Trash's Close Call... Romax.
Looked on Fairbanks Craigslist, searched coal under for sale/wanted, found wood/coal stove in Salcha, not sure if it is worth owning.
**Broken Link(s) Removed**To burn coal you need grates, to get that underfire air.
I see from you picture in Using Bituminous Cloal you are using a barbique grill for grates, I would have thought it would just turn red and sag.
If you are going to weld up a box, I think the heat will flex your mild steel door and cause air control problems, just to start listing problems with that Idea, although Romax may have a heat shield you could copy.
Found this add searching "coal" on Alaskaslist.com under general http://alaskaslist.com/1/posts/9_General/120_Heat ... Stove.html
The cold has come to Cantwell, -20.
Just thought I would add a link to parts for your Vigulant 1C and the Vigilant II I sent ad for, dosen't look like a few parts will interchange to convert yours to a Vigilant II. http://www.discountstove.com/partsvcwbfreestandin ... m#Vigilant

 
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Sting
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Location: Lower Fox Valley = Wisconsin
Other Heating: OBSO Lennox Pulse "Air Scorcher" burning NG

Post by Sting » Thu. Jan. 13, 2011 9:28 am

It hasn't just come -- Its been cold since the beginning of December. Watching the temps in North Pole - it appeared it was 30 below all December, but the kids had their two K1 stoves and they stayed warm and dry. The house door did freeze shut three times from humidity as the door seals shrank and leaked from the cold. And they have ice on the inside of the windows. :D


 
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Short Bus
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Posts: 510
Joined: Sun. Jan. 10, 2010 12:22 am
Location: Cantwell Alaska
Stoker Coal Boiler: Kewanee boiler with Anchor stoker
Coal Size/Type: Chestnut / Sub-bituminous C
Other Heating: Propane wall furnace back up only

Post by Short Bus » Thu. Jan. 13, 2011 10:07 am

What is a K1 stove?

 
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Sting
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Joined: Mon. Feb. 25, 2008 4:24 pm
Location: Lower Fox Valley = Wisconsin
Other Heating: OBSO Lennox Pulse "Air Scorcher" burning NG

Post by Sting » Thu. Jan. 13, 2011 11:13 am

Sorry --- me bad

K1 - Kerosene

we have a projection on about 500 gallons to heat the house comfortably for the season

unless he adds his very large garage and if and until he finished the install of radiant in the house - these two stoves will heat the dwelling (we decided in the cold of late December) for far less cost and effort than a pile of coal - some boiler yet to be discovered - and all the infrastructure to make it happen.

With all the drama surrounding the new air quality laws in Squarebanks too - we may be better off to let it be.

 
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valley trash
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Location: Wasilla, Alaska

Post by valley trash » Thu. Jan. 13, 2011 5:24 pm

AKShadow wrote: I have a drafty house thats around 2000 squareft.
You know if your house is super drafty the ROMAX might help. The inlet for the stove is supposed to be hooked up to pull in cold air from out side thus producing a so called heat balloon inside the house. Im not real sure on the scientific specifications but it sounds feasible. I have neglected to hook mine up to pull in outside air since I don't really need anymore heat given that my house is a bit small for this stove.


 
murphyslaw
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Location: South Central, Alaska

Post by murphyslaw » Thu. Jan. 13, 2011 5:38 pm

The fresh air intake is a must on new homes. They are built to tight, if you turned on the poop fan it would pull a reverse draft on your pipe and smoke you out.

I like the idea of a fresh air intake in my older drafty home as well. This way it wont be pulling cold air from outside into the house threw all those "leaks".

 
AKShadow
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Posts: 88
Joined: Wed. Jan. 12, 2011 12:05 pm
Location: Fairbanks, AK
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 523
Coal Size/Type: Sub-bituminous, stove

Post by AKShadow » Fri. Jan. 14, 2011 12:23 pm

Thats a big problem with my wood stove right now. When it gets below 0 and im running the woodstove im pulling massive amounts of cold air through the many air leaks in the house. Ive thought about just running a pipe from outside through the wall pointed right against the air intake of the stove but I don't really want to drill through logs only to change the stove later in the year. But yes, no matter what stove I get I will be installing some form of Fresh air intake. I am suprised that Harmans and Hitzers don't come with "optional fresh air kits". They can be fabbed up to be "reasonably fresh" though with the method of the pipe throught the wall.

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