Clayton 1600M Stove

Once you get your draft dialed in with the barometric draft regulator, using either a draft gauge or manometer, you will be able to then have a better feeling for where the spinner on the ash door and the flap on the combustion blower, or top spinner if you don't have the draft kit, will be. It is hard to say where you should place them. It is really based upon the needed heat demand of your structure that you are trying to heat. Once you figure out where the air draft controls need to be for the needed heat recovery in relationship to the outside temperature, record this and you will always be able to duplicate the results. I can only guess from here.

a question on the barometric draft regulator....i need to tell you I have my stove in a outside building behind the house with thick wall 6" piping going underground to feed heat to the house vents....i have about a 10ft tall stove pipe going straight up and out of the building...do I need the barometric regulator or do I need the manometer to test this....also the slide baffle to the flu, I keep it all most all the way closed.....

The slide baffle allows you to channel the smoke path either right up the chimney flue on the stove when you pull it out or through the firebrick lined secondary heat exchanger when closed. The purpose of this feature is to prevent smoke in your face when reloading by evacuating the smoke directly to the flue exit.

As for needing a barometric draft regulator in your out building, I'd say yes if the stove is enclosed from the outside. By doing so, the barometric draft regulator will balance the pressure so you don't fan the flames of the fire and are able to keep a constantly controlled draft through the stove.

also if it helps....the outside buildig isnt completely sealed airtight....we usually leave the front open since the stove itself produces some heat and didnt want to overheat anything...

WVASTEVE wrote:with thick wall 6" piping going underground to feed heat to the house vents

Hey WVASTEVE, What kind of 6"pipe are you using? Curious to know details of your underground set-up.

Leaving the front open should help with combustion. I have two 4 inch vents in my basement glass block windows ducted into there to keep the oxygen from depletion. You already have the air leaking in, so you are good to go.

6" thick wall PVC pipe....i used sheet metal to go from the the large rectangle hole and tapered it down to fit the 6" piping.....i think the newer 1600 models have been changed and now have two 6" holes instead of the rectangle