Hot Water Baseboard Zone Not Working Properly
-
- New Member
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Wed. Jan. 21, 2009 7:35 pm
I am having a problem with one of my zones not heating properly. The circulator is running but is very slowly pulling the hot water from the furnace thru the zone but does not flow completely through the zone. I have checked the air vents on the radiators for air but only water squirts out. The pump sounds like it is laboring. I can drain water out of the zone without a problem. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
- Freddy
- Member
- Posts: 7293
- Joined: Fri. Apr. 11, 2008 2:54 pm
- Location: Orrington, Maine
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 130 (pea)
- Coal Size/Type: Pea size, Superior, deep mined
Are you sure the pump is running? It's near impossible to tell sometimes without an ammeter. If any pump is running it can sem like another is. If it is, perhaps the impellers are worn. All valves wide open?
- coaledsweat
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 13763
- Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
- Location: Guilford, Connecticut
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
- Coal Size/Type: Pea
Do you have TACO zone valves? They have a reputation of the coils getting weak and not opening the valve enough to allow a large volume of water through. Remove wire 1(from thermostat)and wait 2 minutes and actuate the manual lever. The pump should start and the pipe should get real hot real quick when you do so. If that is the case, remove the rest of the wires, return the lever to auto and twist the head anti-clockwise 1/4 turn to remove it. No need to drain water with the TACO, I've changed 3 heads in 16 years here.
a good way to test if a pump is running is with a long screwdriver. Place the tooled end on the pump and the handle against your ear. You'll know right away if it's running or not.
Are there flow regulating valves on the return piping anywhere? If so, you might have to adjust them.
Are there flow regulating valves on the return piping anywhere? If so, you might have to adjust them.
-
- New Member
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Wed. Jan. 21, 2009 7:35 pm
The pump is a B&G. You can feel the air coming off the pump when its on.Freddy wrote:Are you sure the pump is running? It's near impossible to tell sometimes without an ammeter. If any pump is running it can sem like another is. If it is, perhaps the impellers are worn. All valves wide open?
-
- New Member
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Wed. Jan. 21, 2009 7:35 pm
I do have a zone valve on the feed to the zone. The make of the zone valve is a Watts Reg 2000M3. When the pump comes on to draw water into the furnace the piping after the zone valve gets hot but it doesn't compltet the circuit. I'm wondering if the zone valve is not opening all the way when the pump is on.coaledsweat wrote:Do you have TACO zone valves? They have a reputation of the coils getting weak and not opening the valve enough to allow a large volume of water through. Remove wire 1(from thermostat)and wait 2 minutes and actuate the manual lever. The pump should start and the pipe should get real hot real quick when you do so. If that is the case, remove the rest of the wires, return the lever to auto and twist the head anti-clockwise 1/4 turn to remove it. No need to drain water with the TACO, I've changed 3 heads in 16 years here.
-
- New Member
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Wed. Jan. 21, 2009 7:35 pm
There is one flow regulating valve on the feed. It has a screw type adjustment on the top. It is a Watts Reg200M3.Hollyfeld wrote:a good way to test if a pump is running is with a long screwdriver. Place the tooled end on the pump and the handle against your ear. You'll know right away if it's running or not.
Are there flow regulating valves on the return piping anywhere? If so, you might have to adjust them.
if the circ is a b&g is it one peice or three if it's the latter the coupler that connects the motor to the bearing assmy/impeller in the volute could be slipping or broken if you get h2o when you open an air vent pressure dosen't seem to be the problem doyou have a flo check or zone valve on that loop you should be able to open either one manually ohter than seeing it in person???????????????it ain't brain surgery it's simple hydronics another thought is it possible there is a frozen spot in that line
I can't find any information on the WATTS site or in the catalog here at work about that valve. Is the screw aligned with the pipe? This ( I assume ) would mean that the valve is open all the way and not regulating the flow at all. I had to tweak the flow valves on my system to get it operating correctly. If you can, measure the supply and return temperature of the water at the boiler.Black Coal wrote:There is one flow regulating valve on the feed. It has a screw type adjustment on the top. It is a Watts Reg200M3.Hollyfeld wrote:a good way to test if a pump is running is with a long screwdriver. Place the tooled end on the pump and the handle against your ear. You'll know right away if it's running or not.
Are there flow regulating valves on the return piping anywhere? If so, you might have to adjust them.
- stoker-man
- Verified Business Rep.
- Posts: 2071
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 19, 2007 9:33 pm
- Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 1981 efm wcb-24 in use 365 days a year
- Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/Chestnut
- Other Heating: Hearthstone wood stove
Do you have at least 10# of pressure in the boiler? A little more if it's a second floor.
-
- Member
- Posts: 320
- Joined: Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:22 pm
- Location: Montour Falls NY
I know you probably already looked at this.. but be sure the line is not frozen somewhere.
does the valve look like this? You might have an older model number.
http://www.watts.com/pro/_productsFull_tree.asp?c ... =683&ref=2
http://www.watts.com/pro/_productsFull_tree.asp?c ... =683&ref=2