Hot Water Baseboard Zone Not Working Properly

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Black Coal
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Post by Black Coal » Wed. Jan. 21, 2009 10:49 pm

I am having a problem with one of my zones not heating properly. The circulator is running but is very slowly pulling the hot water from the furnace thru the zone but does not flow completely through the zone. I have checked the air vents on the radiators for air but only water squirts out. The pump sounds like it is laboring. I can drain water out of the zone without a problem. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 
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Freddy
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Post by Freddy » Wed. Jan. 21, 2009 11:12 pm

Are you sure the pump is running? It's near impossible to tell sometimes without an ammeter. If any pump is running it can sem like another is. If it is, perhaps the impellers are worn. All valves wide open?

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Thu. Jan. 22, 2009 8:30 am

Do you have TACO zone valves? They have a reputation of the coils getting weak and not opening the valve enough to allow a large volume of water through. Remove wire 1(from thermostat)and wait 2 minutes and actuate the manual lever. The pump should start and the pipe should get real hot real quick when you do so. If that is the case, remove the rest of the wires, return the lever to auto and twist the head anti-clockwise 1/4 turn to remove it. No need to drain water with the TACO, I've changed 3 heads in 16 years here.

 
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Hollyfeld
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Post by Hollyfeld » Thu. Jan. 22, 2009 11:25 am

a good way to test if a pump is running is with a long screwdriver. Place the tooled end on the pump and the handle against your ear. You'll know right away if it's running or not.

Are there flow regulating valves on the return piping anywhere? If so, you might have to adjust them.


 
Black Coal
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Post by Black Coal » Thu. Jan. 22, 2009 7:09 pm

Freddy wrote:Are you sure the pump is running? It's near impossible to tell sometimes without an ammeter. If any pump is running it can sem like another is. If it is, perhaps the impellers are worn. All valves wide open?
The pump is a B&G. You can feel the air coming off the pump when its on.

 
Black Coal
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Post by Black Coal » Thu. Jan. 22, 2009 7:17 pm

coaledsweat wrote:Do you have TACO zone valves? They have a reputation of the coils getting weak and not opening the valve enough to allow a large volume of water through. Remove wire 1(from thermostat)and wait 2 minutes and actuate the manual lever. The pump should start and the pipe should get real hot real quick when you do so. If that is the case, remove the rest of the wires, return the lever to auto and twist the head anti-clockwise 1/4 turn to remove it. No need to drain water with the TACO, I've changed 3 heads in 16 years here.
I do have a zone valve on the feed to the zone. The make of the zone valve is a Watts Reg 2000M3. When the pump comes on to draw water into the furnace the piping after the zone valve gets hot but it doesn't compltet the circuit. I'm wondering if the zone valve is not opening all the way when the pump is on.

 
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Post by Black Coal » Thu. Jan. 22, 2009 7:19 pm

Hollyfeld wrote:a good way to test if a pump is running is with a long screwdriver. Place the tooled end on the pump and the handle against your ear. You'll know right away if it's running or not.

Are there flow regulating valves on the return piping anywhere? If so, you might have to adjust them.
There is one flow regulating valve on the feed. It has a screw type adjustment on the top. It is a Watts Reg200M3.

 
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Post by jim d » Thu. Jan. 22, 2009 7:46 pm

if the circ is a b&g is it one peice or three if it's the latter the coupler that connects the motor to the bearing assmy/impeller in the volute could be slipping or broken if you get h2o when you open an air vent pressure dosen't seem to be the problem doyou have a flo check or zone valve on that loop you should be able to open either one manually ohter than seeing it in person???????????????it ain't brain surgery it's simple hydronics another thought is it possible there is a frozen spot in that line


 
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Hollyfeld
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Post by Hollyfeld » Fri. Jan. 23, 2009 10:02 am

Black Coal wrote:
Hollyfeld wrote:a good way to test if a pump is running is with a long screwdriver. Place the tooled end on the pump and the handle against your ear. You'll know right away if it's running or not.

Are there flow regulating valves on the return piping anywhere? If so, you might have to adjust them.
There is one flow regulating valve on the feed. It has a screw type adjustment on the top. It is a Watts Reg200M3.
I can't find any information on the WATTS site or in the catalog here at work about that valve. Is the screw aligned with the pipe? This ( I assume ) would mean that the valve is open all the way and not regulating the flow at all. I had to tweak the flow valves on my system to get it operating correctly. If you can, measure the supply and return temperature of the water at the boiler.

 
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Post by stoker-man » Fri. Jan. 23, 2009 11:17 am

Do you have at least 10# of pressure in the boiler? A little more if it's a second floor.

 
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Post by arcticcatmatt » Fri. Jan. 23, 2009 11:19 am

I know you probably already looked at this.. but be sure the line is not frozen somewhere.

 
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Post by Hollyfeld » Fri. Jan. 23, 2009 1:16 pm

does the valve look like this? You might have an older model number.

http://www.watts.com/pro/_productsFull_tree.asp?c ... =683&ref=2

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