Stove Hot Water Coil-Pre Heat Boiler Water?

Sorry if this has been beat to death, I searched and did not find anything specific. Seeing how boilers are next to impossible
to get ( at least the one that worked for my house), can I use a hot water coil in my stoker stove to " help" my oil boiler? My
stove is good, but you can not duplicate the even heat that comes from the forced hot water boiler. My boiler is working
much less with the stove on. If the stove was making hot water and fed to the boiler, I would burn even less oil. Can this
be done, and what is the best way to do it?
After searching, all kinds of stuff came up on coils, but nothing about how to feed the stove water to a boiler.

You would be better off getting a used hand fed boiler for $800-1200 then selling that off when you get a stoker boiler.

I have done this with mixed results. I fabricated and installed a set of saddle coils that fit between the side heat shields and the stove body. My stove is new and an interior coil would void warranty, besides the direct venting is controlled via a electronic pressure sensor and I did not want to comprimise the firebox. My coil set-up is my weak point, however my system will temper my boiler water and maintain a water temp of approx 110-115 degrees. That temp. reflects 24 hr circulation from boiler into coil, into 280 sq. ft. radiant floor heating zone and then back into boiler. I plumbed it into my boiler just like a new zone. I used a 30# relief valve at the coil for safety. To get any real heat out of the coil the stoker needs to be really cranking (teens to single digits outside) but that has more to do with my coil placement/design and the fact that I dump and ton of heat in the radiant zone. My coil is made of copper which works fine because it is not exposed to coal gases. My basement is not heated, lets say 50-60 deg, and my boiler only runs to supply HW, so boiler water temp. will routinely drop to 70 deg or below. With the stoker running the boiler water temp. needs to be raised just 60 deg vs. 100 deg. to reach my set point of 175 deg.. During colder periods when the stove is cranking I can mintain 125-130 which works nice for the radiant floor zone. I do have som pictures of the coil/install, just need to post them.

frank

I don't think you could pull enough heat out of a coil of tubing surounding a stove to make a differance in the house. Most hot water boilers require 160/180 degree water at 4+ GPM the supply baseboard heat. You could temper or preheat your domestic hot water before it enters your coil or the water heater, that preheating could take 50/55 degree water up to 80`/or more this would take a load off however system you get your
Hot water from. I'm using a wood/coal boiler by Newmac it has a coil installed that next year I will pipe to preheat my domestic hot water before it enters the indirect water heater. The Newmac is also made as oil/wood/coal combo boiler and as a hot air furnace.

Many do it for domestic hot water only, since you are not using it all the the time it has time to heat up the volumeback and forth to your stove.

The boiler is a different story, once you start drawing hot water to you baseboards, it will cool down quickly and your stove probably can't circulate it fast enough back to the boiler to heat it back up. It may help some, but like they said above, you need to get it cranking and have enough coil surface area in the stove coil to actually do something. A standard loop hot water coil probably would not work, you would have to have a lot of surface area and a custom coil installed to keep it hot enough.

Well, I was thinking the heat is there to be had. My oil boiler has three zones, 1 of which is hot water "super store".
I was thinking of having return lines of zones, go through the stove then into the boiler. Would the stove heat the house?
" No" but it would take a chunk out of the amount of time the oil burner runs. From everything I read here, most people
use the stove coils for hot water, or hot water and some base board.