Coal Stove Pipe Damper?

need help with knowledge of stove pipe damper,just added new stove pipe with damper attached,replaced old one,it doesn't seem damper is working properly,how do I know?is there a meter or something I can purchase to check it,?If so what is the correct name for it,?there is a washer /nut type adjustment on the damper not sure how to set it to right setting,!is there a link with information that I could go to?,just what is the purpose of that damper,thanks in advance for any info you can offer me.
bill

A stove pipe damper could be confused with a Manual Pipe Damper (MPD) that many wood stoves use to descrease the heat going up the chimney. But not "normally" recomended for coal.

Do you mean the Baro Damper? Does it have a weight on it and a flapper that opens/closes or a name on it?

The weight adjusts the Draft. It will OPEN on higher draft, to keep a more constant draft on your stove, it adjusts (opens) to compensate for heat and wind blowing, as not to suck all the heat from the stove.

Let us know what brand or post a pic, then we can tell you how to adjust properly. But, to calibrate correctly, you need a Draft Gauge (Manometer, Dwyer Mark II Model 25 or equal - do a search).

If a Field Controls type RM or something, go to their website http://www.fieldcontrols.com

the stove pipe damper I'm talking about is for my coal stove,(surdiac model 513,) the draft control I'm referring to is model B-34automatic draft control,yes it is a flapper type with adjustable weight/screw in the midddle of it.thanks for responding.would this not working properly have any effect on carbon monoxide leaking.I do have a co detector,plugs into the wall outlet.!

bill

Here';s the manual
http://www.fieldcontrols.com/pdfs/46001000.PDF

Most of us run the RC type Baro Damper from Field Controls, has a bit better control, but yours should work if calibrated correctly.

As long as you have a good draft and heat going up the chimney, it would suck the air from the room into the chimney and the pipe and stove would be under a vacuum. Therefore, the CO shouldn't leak out unless there is a problem. Almost all stoker and hand fired stoves use some type of Baro Damper.

When you screw the weight one way, it will open easier on lower draft, the otherway , it adds weight and need more vacuum to open. That limits what comes out of your stove, as heat builds up in the stove, the pipe will continue to suck more heat from the stove and create more draft, the baro will open and pull air from the room, which keeps the stove under a certain vacuum and you don't waste heat up the chimney.....

thanks for all the help and manual in the past,

back to working with my coal stove (SURDIAC 513) fired it up today,but still having trouble with my draft(B34 flapper).when I make an adjustment by turning the nut,should the draft be open,?I'm having a hard time figuring out what position it should be in.I do have the pipe hooked up to the chimmey in which my furnace is hooked into,which is the same way when I used it years ago.I noticed when my furnace is running the draft is always open on that pipe. I must be doing something wrong.I have a great fire going in the coal stove and I keep playing with the draft nut but I don't seem to be getting anywhere with it.Any advice,I sure would like some,i appreciate all the advice you've given me so far.thanks again in advance.again,should I adjust the nut untill it stays open on its own.?

bill

Make sure it has the weight (giant washer looking thing on the back side hooked to the spinner). It will move closer or farther away from the flapper and adjust the draft. With a draft gauge, you don't know what your draft is and therefore, you cannot set it up correctly. Some may have it slightly open, others may have it farther open, depends on your chimney draft.

The flapped is slightly offset, therefore, when you move the weight farther away. I believe LEFT (CCW) is open more. Right (CW) is closed more.