Manometer Reading Interpretation - New Install

 
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Cold_Mainer
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Post by Cold_Mainer » Fri. Nov. 28, 2008 8:23 pm

Got my mano hooked up today and took my first readings. It was fairly warm out at 40 Deg F. I pumped up the stove so she was ripping some good heat and got a mano reading .02. Have had my baro set at .02 when I installed it because this makes it the easiest for it to open. I can make it open by blowing on it so I don't belive there is any issue with the baro. I have only been burning for 2 weeks and this is a new install. I hardly ever see the baro damper open, only on very extremely windy days. Has been closed otherwise. Stove pipe is warm but not hot. Stack thermometer will be in next week.

My wood stove had a killer draft and I am somewhat puzzled where all the draft went to as I am in the same flue at the same point.

Any thoughts on the mano reading and current baro setting?

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Post by coaledsweat » Fri. Nov. 28, 2008 8:42 pm

"My wood stove had a killer draft and I am somewhat puzzled where all the draft went to as I am in the same flue at the same point."

The big draft went out with the wood, slow and steady wins this race. :)

 
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Post by gambler » Fri. Nov. 28, 2008 8:51 pm

Cold_Mainer wrote:My wood stove had a killer draft and I am somewhat puzzled where all the draft went to as I am in the same flue at the same point.
Much of your wood heat went out the chimney with your draft. It kept the chimney HOT and drafting well. Now that you have coal you have significantly lower flue temps and therefore lower draft. A reading of only .02 with a ripping fire does not sound too good. When it gets cold out and your stove is on idle or low your chimney may quit drafting all together or when it warms into the 60's it may also quit drafting. With a ripping fire you should be at -.04

edit: keep an eye on the underside of your hopper lid for moisture (condensation) if you get this you have draft issues.
Also a baro setting of .02 may be too light. Set the baro between 02 and 04 marks. Set it where the 03 mark would be if there was one.

 
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Post by Cold_Mainer » Fri. Nov. 28, 2008 9:02 pm

Hmmmm.....great. What are the implacations for this? I assume with the poor draft stive may struggle to stay lit. Will this affect how the coal will be burnt...i.e., may not burn completely? I've noticed when emptying my ash pan that some of the coal looked to be only partially burnt but I gave some thought to it as maybe I have some low grade fuel.

Like I said only been burning 2 weeks so don't have quite a handle on everything yet.

 
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Post by Cold_Mainer » Fri. Nov. 28, 2008 9:23 pm

gambler wrote:
Cold_Mainer wrote:My wood stove had a killer draft and I am somewhat puzzled where all the draft went to as I am in the same flue at the same point.
Much of your wood heat went out the chimney with your draft. It kept the chimney HOT and drafting well. Now that you have coal you have significantly lower flue temps and therefore lower draft. A reading of only .02 with a ripping fire does not sound too good. When it gets cold out and your stove is on idle or low your chimney may quit drafting all together or when it warms into the 60's it may also quit drafting. With a ripping fire you should be at -.04

edit: keep an eye on the underside of your hopper lid for moisture (condensation) if you get this you have draft issues.
Also a baro setting of .02 may be too light. Set the baro between 02 and 04 marks. Set it where the 03 mark would be if there was one.
So what is the concern about setting of the baro too light?

 
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Post by gambler » Fri. Nov. 28, 2008 9:28 pm

Cold_Mainer wrote:I assume with the poor draft stive may struggle to stay lit.
The stove will stay lit just fine. But that is the problem because if you have low or no draft it will vent into your house and the fire won't die out.
Do you have a good CO detector?
You may be ok but I would keep a very close eye on the hopper lid looking for moisture. Also keep you nose peeled for a sulphur smell.
I can manually open my baro to create a lower draft when my stove is burning about 40% and at least with my stove when the draft drops to -.03 I can detect a slight sulphur smell. Which says the stove is creating more gas than the flue is removing.

 
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Post by gambler » Fri. Nov. 28, 2008 9:31 pm

Cold_Mainer wrote:So what is the concern about setting of the baro too light?
If set too light it can cause the stove to go to positive pressure and vent its gasses out the back of the stoker assembly and also through the hopper.


 
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Post by Cold_Mainer » Fri. Nov. 28, 2008 9:36 pm

gambler wrote:
Cold_Mainer wrote:I assume with the poor draft stive may struggle to stay lit.
The stove will stay lit just fine. But that is the problem because if you have low or no draft it will vent into your house and the fire won't die out.
Do you have a good CO detector?
You may be ok but I would keep a very close eye on the hopper lid looking for moisture. Also keep you nose peeled for a sulphur smell.
I can manually open my baro to create a lower draft when my stove is burning about 40% and at least with my stove when the draft drops to -.03 I can detect a slight sulphur smell. Which says the stove is creating more gas than the flue is removing.
Yeah, I got 2 CO detectors in the basement. One Kidde Nighthawk that has a digital readout and the one Jeryy includes with his stoves. Will be getting another Nighthawk for upstairs. I noticed a sulfur smell on 2 short occasions and they were near the hopper. Didn't last very long though, really brief.

 
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Post by gambler » Fri. Nov. 28, 2008 9:40 pm

What kind of chimney do you have and what size is the flue?

 
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Post by gambler » Fri. Nov. 28, 2008 9:44 pm

Push the right side button on the nighthawk and see if you have any reading other than zero.
The nighthawk will not diswplay a reading below 30 but it does keep any reading above 10 but you have to push the right side button to display any reading between 10 and 30

 
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Post by Dallas » Fri. Nov. 28, 2008 9:49 pm

I was waiting for Greg, as he seems to be online ... and quiet. :?: This is his baby :!:

First, the barometric damper doesn't appear level. This might make a slight difference. Nothing catastrophic.

Next, based on the manometer reading, you have a downdraft situation. However, if the stove is burning, without a real problem, you would not seem to have a downdraft, so that would have me looking over the manometer installation. Hose hooked in the correct place? Unit zeroed according to instructions, etc.?

 
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Post by Cold_Mainer » Fri. Nov. 28, 2008 10:52 pm

gambler wrote:What kind of chimney do you have and what size is the flue?
I have a lined masonoary chimney (brick) with a 12 x 8 inch flue

 
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Post by Cold_Mainer » Fri. Nov. 28, 2008 11:20 pm

Dallas wrote:I was waiting for Greg, as he seems to be online ... and quiet. :?: This is his baby :!:

First, the barometric damper doesn't appear level. This might make a slight difference. Nothing catastrophic.

Next, based on the manometer reading, you have a downdraft situation. However, if the stove is burning, without a real problem, you would not seem to have a downdraft, so that would have me looking over the manometer installation. Hose hooked in the correct place? Unit zeroed according to instructions, etc.?
Baro is level........it doesn't appear that way due to the angle of the photo. No downdraft.......I hooked the tubing to the low side of the mano to take advanatge of the broader scale. Yup, unit was zeroed before I started.....

 
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Post by gambler » Fri. Nov. 28, 2008 11:26 pm

Cold_Mainer wrote:
gambler wrote:What kind of chimney do you have and what size is the flue?
I have a lined masonoary chimney (brick) with a 12 x 8 inch flue
A 12x8 flue may be your problem. It takes quite a bit of heat to keep a flue that size hot and drafting.

 
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Post by Cold_Mainer » Fri. Nov. 28, 2008 11:34 pm

Mu oil heating system is in the same chimney and the baro is installed in a vertical position. It seems to be working better than the coal stove baro. Thing is open most of the time. Its installed higher that the coal stove insert thimble.


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