Almost Set

Here's a shot of my 8" pipe. (sounds obscene). I'm going to work in a baro if it ever arrives from an Ebay auction. I will probably put a T into the thimble and have the baro at the end. This will also allow visual inspection of the flue. The first thimble I bought had a hairline crack on the outside so I went and got another one and installed it. I just found out the I.D. of the first one was 8- 1/8". The one I cut down and installed was exactly 8" I.D. SUX because I wanted to slide the stove pipe all the way in to the thimble. The installed thimble won't accept my stove pipe like that so the crimped end of the elbow is fit into the thimble. I carefully drilled holes in the thimble and have the elbow retained with roofing nails slipped in for the time being! I may work on a better set up soon, I'll have to figure out how to decrease the diameter of my pipe slightly. I put an 8" MPD in the long section close to the stove, hard to see in this pic.
I'm on a budget ( actually I'm cheap) so I used Lowes single wall stove pipe. The adjustable elbow at the stove popped apart- it had a bad rivet. I got it back together with a 1/8" steel rivet amidst a lot of cursing about bad quality control. Everything screwed together every 120 degrees around the outside joints. This set up will allow me to have a wood fire long enough to bake off the new materials and stove paint, and have a looksee at the draft behavior.

Here's a shot of my 8" pipe. (sounds obscene)

Funny.

I carefully drilled holes in the thimble and have the elbow retained with roofing nails slipped in for the time being!

Interesting, how do you keep the nails from falling out?
That single wall pipe should be fine.

You can use SS sheetmetal screws from an automotive store, or a good hardware to run through the thimble into the flue pipe..

Greg L

You'll want to get a manomometer too to measure & set the draft. It's how cheap people save money. If you don't you may send a lot of heating dollars up the chimney. Draft cannot be set by guess, by feel, or by the numbers on the barometric damper. And, yes, before you're done, make sure it's all screwed together, three screws on each joint. One good (bad) puff back can make things come undone.

Rockwood,
I drilled the holes in the thimble with a 1/8" masonry bit. Then through the inserted elbow end with a 1/8 bit. At 9 and 3 o'clock on the thimble so they are just sitting in through the holes until I can come up with a better arrangement. The weak aspect of this is the brittleness of the thimble, but the holes are in an inch so it will prevent any moderate bump or puffback from knocking the elbow out of the thimble. As it is I could just glue the nails in with a little furnace cement. Still tweaking this set up....

Here's how I secured mine in the thimble. high temperature caulk around the seam at the pipe to terra cotta and a piece of metal screwed into the pipe and the wall.