Moving Warm Air in a House With No Basement

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Post Fri. Nov. 21, 2008 11:01 am

Now that is getting much colder I am finding it much cooler in 2 of the 3 bedrooms furthest from the stove. Its not a surprise as I expected as much.

The house is about 1400 sq ft with no basement. The headers over the doorways tend to block the heat from flowing naturally.

My plan is to install a register over the stove in the ceiling. Run flexible insulated 8" duct (50 feet) in the attic to a Y. Then from the Y reduce it down to two 6" flexible insulated duct. Each section of 6" will have an In-Line Duct Booster Fan and terminate to an insulated register box with a grill in each bedroom.

I purchased most of the materials last night and tried the In-Line Duct Booster Fan, very quiet which is what I was hoping for. These will be connected to a rheostat dimmer switch so the fan speed can be adjusted.

Then I want to trim off the bottom of the doors in the bedrooms so it will allow the cool air to return to the room where the stove is.

I am trying to get the entire house to be closer in temp. I don't want fans running in the living area moving air.

Here are links to the duct work and In-Line Duct Booster Fan.

I will let you know how it works out.

Any thoughts about this new project would be appreciated. I plan to start this weekend if I can get everything I need.
Last edited by MrMikie on Sat. Apr. 01, 2017 1:10 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Post Fri. Nov. 21, 2008 11:24 am

Thats awesome and sounds like something I have been thinking about doing. I have not decided if I want to go thru the ceiling or basement.

40 bucks for 25 feet isn't bad. Looks like the entire project costs 150 bucks or so.

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Post Fri. Nov. 21, 2008 11:54 am

I took my hot air off the stove and went to insulated, flex duct about 5' from the stove. I was concerned about the high temperatures coming right off the stove, so I elected to go with aluminum flex duct and the insulation. ??? I'm not sure if it's available in 8" diameter.

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Post Fri. Nov. 21, 2008 12:24 pm

It may work fine. But remember, it is easier to move cold air.

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Post Fri. Nov. 21, 2008 1:50 pm

Are you on a slab Mike or do you have a crawl space under the house? If you have a crawl space, you may be better off running your insulated duct under the house (farthest room/s away from the stove) back to your stove's blower fan inlet. (floor vents in the far rooms connected via a "Y")That way the heat will be sucked into the farthest rooms.

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Post Fri. Nov. 21, 2008 2:47 pm

I am proceeding with it this way as I feel pretty confident it will improve the conditions we have now. My feeling is the cold air will settle and move back as its a pretty straight shot without much in the way.

The doorway headers would still block heat if only working with cold air return.

They also keep doors closed and this will work even when doors are closed. I could cut openings above the door ways and put a grate on both sides but 1 has an oak shelf in the way that holds all my wife's pretty tea pots, cups and bowls etc. NO WAY I can touch that :roll:

I do have a crawl space, but a few reasons why I do not want to go this way. One is a concrete block wall in the way that I would have to break through, as I built a 32 x 20 foot addition onto the existing house in 1985.

Secondly I do not fit as well under there as I used too :) I know first hand as I just removed a section of my baseboard heat and the piping was all under there, not a fun place to work.

It will be much easier in my opinion to work in the attic. I have all my electric run up there and would not have to run power under the crawl space.

I really do not want to have duct work coming out of the floor then across the hearth in the living area. Would look like sheet ;)

When my sons leave the door open its not that bad, but they like privacy from time to time, so it is closed more than open.

I just picked up the rest of the parts I need and should be ready to work on it this weekend, unless something else pops up.

I have read most of the other threads on here (in regards to distribution of air) and most folks have basements with stoves in them. I feel this is a different situation and requires a different approach.

I thank you for you inputs

I will let you know how I make out. I hope soon to just sit back and relax a little. Maybe after I hook up the new 80 gallon electric hot water heater and a 60 amp sub panel to allow for more circuits. Then I can shut off the boiler for DHW.

Good thing I have a very understanding wife and she loves everything I have done so far. When momma is happy everyone is happy, if you know what I mean.

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Post Fri. Nov. 21, 2008 3:47 pm

It sounds like it should make a good difference. Let us know how it pans out!

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Post Mon. Nov. 24, 2008 12:34 pm

careful those home depot fans will only handle air up to 140* before they toast. They have a fuse in them that just shuts them off, it can be bypassed. If you look on line there is a company that sells fans that will handle air up to 267* F they also have a fuse and it too can be bypassed.

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Post Mon. Nov. 24, 2008 12:52 pm

The corrugated duct work will definitely slow the air down, it does make the air flow quieter. Make sure you have a large enough fan to overcome the resistance, I tried some of the flex stuff, but the air flow wasn't enough even in about 6 feet, I switch it to solid and then insulated it with the flex stuff, I just removed the flex liner and pushed the pipe thru it.

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