To Strong A Draft

Devil505 · Post by **Devil505** » Tue. Nov. 04, 2008 5:18 pm

Thanks Rick...I think that's what we'll do to! (I see yours is b4 the baro, rather than after it. Is there a reason to do that?)
In the mean time, the stove company is coming out to check/replace the ash door as it can't stop a fire even when everything is closed tight.

Post by **coaledsweat** » Tue. Nov. 04, 2008 5:30 pm

Less chance of killing yourself.

rockwood · Post by **rockwood** » Tue. Nov. 04, 2008 5:45 pm

Devil505 wrote:(I see yours is b4 the baro, rather than after it. Is there a reason to do that?)

How could a baro damper work properly if a pipe damper was installed after it?

Assuming the baro damper was set with the MPD wide open, any adjustment of the pipe damper would then change the baro dampers ability to correctly control draft. It would be like you took the baro damper and connected it to a different chimney with totally different characteristics. It would not work right.

Devil505 · Post by **Devil505** » Tue. Nov. 04, 2008 5:47 pm

rockwood wrote:Assuming the baro damper was set with the MPD wide open any adjustment of the pipe damper would then change the baro dampers ability to correctly control draft. It would be like you took the baro damper and connected it to a different chimney with totally different characteristics. It would not work right.

Got it...Thanks!

coal berner · Post by **coal berner** » Tue. Nov. 04, 2008 5:52 pm

Devil505 wrote:We're gonna try this for a bit:

1. We opened fully the secondary (above fire) air controls on the TLC to reduce the draft going through the coal bed.(we'll leave it set that way)
2. My daughter tells me that I had her so brainwashed into getting the fire livened up b4 shake down that she was letting it practically over fire by itself, b4 she dared shake down. She will now just let the fire brighten a bit b4 shake down.
3. Opening the cleanout door dropped the manometer reading to around. .01-.02wc if it overfires again.

Take the time and read this you want to size the baro to the Breeching /flue & chimney height not the stove pipe coming off the stove you have 6" flue & pipe you can go to a 7" or 8" baro to slow down your draft better if the 6" can't do it

http://fieldcontrols.com/draftcontrol.php

Devil505 · Post by **Devil505** » Tue. Nov. 04, 2008 5:56 pm

coal berner wrote:Take the time and read this you want to size the baro to the Breeching /flue & chimney height not the stove pipe coming off the stove you have 6" flue & pipe you can go to a 7" or 8" baro to slow down your draft better if the 6" can't do it

Will do...Thanks

Post by **coaledsweat** » Tue. Nov. 04, 2008 6:09 pm

Now you get it?

coaledsweat wrote:If you still have too much draft then you need a bigger baro to cope with it.

coaledsweat wrote:2. That is why you need to re size your baro.